Molly Goddard & Her Charm

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It’s impossible not to fall in love with Molly Goddard‘s charming, carefree and one-of-a-kind designs. During the last London Fashion Week, I had an impression that it was Molly’s show that really stood out the most. I wrote about the slight Lady Bird feeling I had throughout the autumn-winter 2018 outing. And now, when I’m looking back at this tulle-loving and gingham-patterned collection, so much optimism comes up to my mind. It’s like Kylie Minogue’s ecstatic Impossible Princess album from 1997 – loud, powerful, happy. Also, everyone should admit that Goddard’s impact across the industry (and other designers’ moodboards…) is very, very noticeable. Just look at Off-White and Stella McCartney this season – I see you, copycats. I doubt they would cherish tulle that much if Molly didn’t make it a statement again.

If you’re about to invest in a piece to love this spring, see the grey Robyn dressruched sleeve sheer top in pink and the delightful August skirt.

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Rough and Sweet. Marques Almeida SS18

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Roughness and sweetness collide in today’s femininity, and that was quite clearly shown in Marques Almeida spring-summer 2018 collection. The designers were intrigued in womanhood and its many faces, that’s why their show embraced many personalities. Dolly Parton’s song were on the soundtrack, so no wonder why Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida focused on the all-American classic: denim. From re-invented Texan Tuxedos to torn-up trousers, there were many options to choose from. Dolly Parton is woman to love and respect for many reasons. So did the designers think of Joan of Arc. The metallic gilets (worn over pink smocks) and armour-like total-looks were the main, smartly played nods to her powerful appearance that definitely fell into the first camp – roughness. But if you really think of a 2017 woman, the extra-large shoulder bags are here to support on daily-basis. Nicely covered in floral jacquard, they are both practical and pretty.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Witchy. Rodarte SS18

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Americans in Paris – I love seeing them here. Proenza Schouler‘s spring-summer 2018 was already a very good sign. The same day, Mulleavy sistersRodarte line-up was a feast for the eye in pure form. The show was staged in a Parisian cloister with a garden patio, where the models strolled around in witchy dresses and badass leather gears. All those ethereal and rebellious elements of a Rodarte woman symbolised Kate and Laura’s romantic sensibility with a sophisticated vision of femininity.

Throughout the seasons in New York, Rodarte reflected on womanhood in various ways, from skate girls to punk princesses. Spring-summer 2018 was “the most Rodarte collection” the sisters created, where they mixed all of their magical ingredients into one delightful potion. Like fairies, the models had baby’s-breath tiaras on their heads or carried huge bird of paradise bouquets. Some wore scarlet red gowns, some pastel pink ball-dresses, but all oozed with a carefree, A Midsummer Night’s Dream sweetness. There were the leather pieces, too, which are Rodarte’s signatures – this season ornamented with metallic bows. I guess the Mulleavy girls deserve a loud ‘bienvenue’, just like the Proenza Schouler boys do.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: stills and elements from ‘The Love Witch’ film from 2016).