It’s impossible not to fall in love with Molly Goddard‘s charming, carefree and one-of-a-kind designs. During the last London Fashion Week, I had an impression that it was Molly’s show that really stood out the most. I wrote about the slight Lady Bird feeling I had throughout the autumn-winter 2018 outing. And now, when I’m looking back at this tulle-loving and gingham-patterned collection, so much optimism comes up to my mind. It’s like Kylie Minogue’s ecstatic Impossible Princess album from 1997 – loud, powerful, happy. Also, everyone should admit that Goddard’s impact across the industry (and other designers’ moodboards…) is very, very noticeable. Just look at Off-White and Stella McCartney this season – I see you, copycats. I doubt they would cherish tulle that much if Molly didn’t make it a statement again.
If you’re about to invest in a piece to love this spring, see the grey Robyn dress, ruched sleeve sheer top in pink and the delightful August skirt.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Americans in Paris – I love seeing them here. Proenza Schouler‘s spring-summer 2018 was already a very good sign. The same day, Mulleavy sisters‘ Rodarte line-up was a feast for the eye in pure form. The show was staged in a Parisian cloister with a garden patio, where the models strolled around in witchy dresses and badass leather gears. All those ethereal and rebellious elements of a Rodarte woman symbolised Kate and Laura’s romantic sensibility with a sophisticated vision of femininity.
Throughout the seasons in New York, Rodarte reflected on womanhood in various ways, from skate girls to punk princesses. Spring-summer 2018 was “the most Rodarte collection” the sisters created, where they mixed all of their magical ingredients into one delightful potion. Like fairies, the models had baby’s-breath tiaras on their heads or carried huge bird of paradise bouquets. Some wore scarlet red gowns, some pastel pink ball-dresses, but all oozed with a carefree, A Midsummer Night’s Dream sweetness. There were the leather pieces, too, which are Rodarte’s signatures – this season ornamented with metallic bows. I guess the Mulleavy girls deserve a loud ‘bienvenue’, just like the Proenza Schouler boys do.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: stills and elements from ‘The Love Witch’ film from 2016).