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What’s Hot (9.9.20)

September 9, 2020 | Design & Culture by Ed

(P.S. My Birthday requires the presence of this Molly Goddard runway dream!)

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RADICAL SIMPLICITY 🚀 #DACBE: #Courrèges isn’t an easy brand to revive. After all the reboots it went through in the last couple of years, the legendary 1960s Spage Age maison just didn’t resonate. #NicolasDiFelice is its new hope, and his debut #AW21 collection is the best proof for that. More on the JOURNAL ✈️ #Paris #PFW #Courreges #SpaceAge #Minimalism #RadicalSimplicity #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🛸 #collage by me.

PERFORMANCE ⛸ #DACBE: The dancing theme, whether it’s Erdem‘s ballerinas or Dries Van Noten‘s emotional contemporary dance production, is having a moment this season. It’s natural: we’re year in global lockdowns, and we all want to shake it off. For #AW21, #Vaquera‘s #ClaireSullivan, #PatricDiCaprio and #BrynTaubensee were inspired by the sensation of “waiting to go back out in the world, to go onstage.” More on the JOURNAL 🩰 #Paris #PFW #SynchroSkating #IceSkating #DoverStreetMarket #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🥇 #collage by me.

DANCE IT OUT ❣️ #DACBE: For #AW21, #DriesVanNoten left the comfort zone of any kind of runway or simple look-book far, far behind. There’s something deeply emotional about the way he presented new season offering: rage, frustration, confusion, longing and separation are danced out on a darkened #Antwerp stage in the film the designer produced. More on the JOURNAL 🌹 #Paris #PFW #Dance #Suspiria #LucaGuadagnino #FrancescaWoodman #PinaBausch #DACBECOLLECTIONS ❤️ “live” #collage by me.

GABRIELA IN PARIS 🌍 #DACBE: Knowing her style and philosophy at her name-sake, New York-based label, you could be sure #GabrielaHearst would take her sustainability-forward mindset to #Chloé. Aesthetic-wise, we know her for ultra-luxurious, assertive minimalism with eventual, feminine details, but you will hardly find any irony in those cashmere cape-coats and gorgeous pleated leather dresses. Most of all, it seemed to me that the designer decided to revolt against the New York ‘Gabriela Hearst’ and let things take some sort of laid-back approach, in the spirit of the Saint-Germain-Des-Prés lifestyle. More thoughts on Hearst’s debut collection on the JOURNAL 🌎 #Paris #PFW #Chloe #Poncho #SustainableFashion #Sustainability #NomadStyle #AW21 #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌏 #collage by me.

ONE FOOT IN BED, ONE FOOT IN REALITY 🐦 #DACBE: The new season #AcneStudios collection is quite close to #JonnyJohansson‘s recent outings: incredibly tactile, playfully deconstructed and intentionally ‘unfinished’ if you know what I mean. The difference is that it’s a direct response to current lockdown feelings and isolation moods. More on the JOURNAL ❄️ #Paris #PFW #AW21 #Tactile #StayHomeStyle #Penguins #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🐧 #collage by me.

HEALING POWERS ✨ #DACBE: The first days of digital #PFW are definitely lively – especially, thanks to new-gen designers who aren’t really Paris-based. In the last several years, the brilliant South African designer #ThebeMagugu observed friends and relatives overhauling their lives while studying traditional healing. Compelled by their connection to their ancestors, these young creatives began to learn practices with roots in antiquity, an experience that altered their perspectives. “It’s called #ukuthwasa, and the way it manifests itself is quite interesting because it starts as a sickness, a kind of spiritual illness,” explained Magugu on Zoom to Vogue. “It causes people to take this monumental journey where you leave for months on end to train under a traditional healer. In the past it was something that felt far away from me, but now, as peers have received those sorts of callings, it’s fascinating. Once they return, they are completely changed.” More on the JOURNAL 🦋 #Paris #AW21 #SouthAfrica #Healing #MotherNature #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💧#collage by me.

GROUNDED APPROACH🪲 #DACBE: Like many people during this period, #ZoeLatta and #MikeEckhaus went through a mood rollercoaster. That bummed-out vibe provided a creative spark, which resulted in comforting, deconstructed shapes, gritty textures and a somber palette. More about #EckhausLatta #AW21 on the JOURNAL 🐞 #NewYork #ComfortZone #Deconstruction #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🐝 #collage by me.

FAMILY AFFAIR 🌺 #DACBE: Digital #PFW started today, and it hit off with #MarineSerre‘s “Core” collection. We’ve got used to Serre’s dystopian visions, which appeared to be ironically precise (she pioneered face masks on the runway seasons ago…). However, her #AW21 line-up is all about optymism and hope. Moreover, it’s a beautiful family affair. More on the JOURNAL 🌷 #Paris #Sustainability #SustainableFashion #Upcycling #SpaceshipHouse #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💐 #collage by me.

THE ACT 🕊 #DACBE: Approximately a year ago, COVID-19 hit Europe. #PierpaoloPiccioli presented his #Valentino collection during Paris Fashion Week (who would have ever believed back then that fashion weeks will switch to digital?!) and the solemn, melancholic elegance he sent down the runway captured the first feelings of crisis. For #AW21, you would have expected some sort of bold, joyful vision of future re-emergence most designers are desperately talking about this season. But surprisingly – especially having in mind his recent, extraordinary couture collection! – Piccioli decided to stay a realist, staying in the black-and-white colour palette. He thought of a modern-day punk attitude with a romantic twist. From the sheer lace evening gowns to over-sized shirts worn as dresses, the collection looks towards the aspect of comfort, but not in a lazy way. More on the JOURNAL 🤍 #Milan #MFW #PierpaoloPiccioli #ValentinoActCollection #NewRomance #ModernPunk #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🖤 #collage by me.

SEXY IS BACK 💥 #DACBE: #TomFord keeps it hot and mostly short for #AW21. “The slight deconstruction of luxurious pieces is something that I feel will be a legacy of the pandemic for a few seasons to come,” he wrote in the press notes. Another legacy of the pandemic he foresees will be the return of sexy. More on the JOURNAL 🔥 #Milan #MFW #LegsForDays #SoChic #DACBECOLLECTIONS ⚡️ “live” #collage by me.

SPACE ODYSSEY 🛸 #DACBE: For #AW21, #PaulAndrew delivered the most unexpected collection for #SalvatoreFerragamo. His vision for the brand was all about a formal-meets-casual wardrobe, kept luxurious and upscale. However, such approach failed in COVID era. So it was a smart decision to stir things up - Andrew took Ferragamo to the outer space. More on the JOURNAL 🚀 #Milan #MFW #SpaceOdyssey #Perseverance #Mars #OutOfThisWorld #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🛰 #collage by me.

IT’S PERFECT ☁️ #DACBE: It’s always refreshing to see a #Zanini line-up during #MFW. While it’s mostly about who’s louder and bolder in #Milan, #MarcoZanini delivers quiet collections that actually speak volumes and have true substance. Don’t get me wrong, I love a camp-y Moschino, but nothing beats a well-edited offering that includes a perfectly tailored, felted double-faced cashmere peacoat or a sartorial jacket made from ultralight wool flannel. Zanini is a place for women (and now for men as well) who seek timeless, investment pieces that aren’t plain, cold minimalism, but got the human touch palpable in every single seam. More about the label’s #AW21 on the JOURNAL 💧 #FrancoFontana #Tailoring #SoftMinimalism #TimelessDesign #Cashmere #SoChic #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌜 #collage by me.

REAL CLOTHES, REAL FEELINGS 🍇 #DACBE: Really, who didn’t play bed-sheets-couture dress-up, even once during the year of endless lockdowns? Those fabulous, voluminous duvet garments #FrancescoRisso offered in his #Marni #AW21 surely had this sort of stay-at-home origin. But this collection isn’t another mumbling about “fancy” home-wear. It’s real clothes reflecting real emotions... fit for real life. More on the JOURNAL 🫐 #Milan #MFW #PalomaElsesser #AquaticLife #RealFantasy #MotherNature #SustainbleFashion #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍊 #collage by me.

BEAUTY, SILHOUETTE & POSE 💜 #DACBE: For some designers, the pandemic brought a sense of freedom, and also let them really rethink how to do things. #JonathanAnderson is an example. Discover his incredible fashion-meets-art #JWAnderson #AW21 collection on the JOURNAL 💚 #JuergenTeller #London #Silhouette #Knitwear #FashionAndArt #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🤍 #collage by me.

TOTAL FANTASY 🎨 #DACBE: #JeremyScott‘s #AW21 collection for #Moschino is hilariously good. Forget the lockdown-and-loungewear talk. Here’s total, camp fantasy. More on the JOURNAL 🎪 #Milan #MFW #KarenElson #LifeImitatesArt #ArtImitatesLife #TableuxVivants #TrompeLOeil #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🪗 #collage by me.

EASY OPULENCE 🍬 #DACBE: #MiucciaPrada and #RafSimons‘ joined vision for #Prada starts to unravel. It’s elusive, enigmatic and far from straightforward – and what’s most important, exciting. #AW21 is the second full season coming from those two brilliant fashion minds, and while the debut left many hungry for more, the latest line-up has the virtual audience in awe. More on the JOURNAL ✨ #Milan #MFW #Opulence #MeretOppenheim #BillieHoliday #SoChic #NewElegance #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💥 “live” #collage by me.

It’s one year since you’re not with us, but I still hear your little footsteps. Love you. I’m sure you are somewhere in the Universe, as a little star. ❤️ #Rubi #ForeverLove

HOT CONFIDENCE 🌹 #DACBE: #Blumarine is hot! #NicolaBrognano‘s debut last season proved that he (with #LottaVolkova’s styling help) has a plan for this Italian brand that once was the synonym of sexy, carefree glamour. More about the #AW21 collection on the JOURNAL ❣️ #Milan #MFW #RedRose #SoChic #Madonna #HelmutNewton #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍬 #collage by me.

PROPER CLASSICS 🌞 #DACBE: #KimJones‘ first collection for #Fendi, which was a haute couture line-up starring the designer’s friends like Demi Moore, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, polarised the audience. Surprisingly, his ready-to-wear debut wasn’t such noteworthy event – no big names among the models, and instead of some sort of Insta-extravaganza, we’ve seen a very classic, proper Fendi collection. More on the JOURNAL ☕️ P.s. This fur is upcycled! 🍮 #Milan #MFW #AW21 #FendiFur #Rome #LaDolceVita #TheClassics #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍁 #collage by me.

A DANCER 🦢 #DACBE: #ErdemMoralioglu delivered a mesmerising collection for #AW21. Conceived in the realm of ballet, #Erdem’s line-up freeze-framed a dancer’s wardrobe between the stages of rehearsal and performance. More on the JOURNAL 🩰 #London #LFW #BalletDancer #AlfredHitchcock #Rebecca #Elegance #IbKamara #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🎭 #collage by me.

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