Routine Absurds. Balenciaga Pre-Fall’17

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Demna Gvasalia had spandex boots on his Balenciaga runway. He did gargantuan, big bazaar bags. The Georgian designer has even proved us that corporate dressing is not just for Angela Merkel and her wardrobe. With his every hit (and they get edgier and edgier with every season), the clothes you would rather burn than call ‘fashion’ become somewhat sudden objects of desire. Pre-fall 2017 collection is the best prove for that, as all of Gvasalia’s biggest moments at the house are refreshed and reminded. And they look fire. Every single piece. Even a scarf tied under the chin (we live in 2017, so it’s a ‘babushka hood’…) in intense fuchsia looks brilliant. A nod to Gvasalia’s Soviet origins? Probably. But feels so contemporary, even if you know it’s NOT.

Daily routine has its trashy, cringey, cheesy, but beautiful absurds. Just some food for brain.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki; styling by Lotta Volkova; photography by Harley Weir.

Modesty. The Row Pre-Fall’17

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Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen presented one of the most refined collections for autumn-winter 2017, reaching the feeling of Calvin Klein’s early minimalism and Helmut Lang’s authentically raw, New York coolness. For pre-fall 2017, the twins continue their exploration of austerity and softness, offering a selection of The Row classics. The 90s rough modesty is perceivanble thanks to Zoë Ghertner’s images of Erin O’Connor, who poses in thick grey coats, black turtlenecks and delightful slim maxi-dresses. As soon as colder days strike, those timeless pieces will be there to serve.

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Killer. Tom Ford AW17

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Although Tom Ford has resigned from the see-now buy-now business strategy, that doesn’t mean he feels dissapointed – his autumn-winter 2017 look-book is the best prove for that. Atrakhan scrotum bags, metallic square-toe heels, empowering fur coats, sequinned turtlenecks, multi-coloured tights, PVC jackets… those are the clothes to kill and to kill for. ‘Cocktail dress’ sounds pretentiously, but according to Ford it’s a timeless go-to piece for every evening event. Whether in black velvet and with over-sized shoulder-pads or as a kimono hybrid, the designer goes burning hot this season with lenghts and silhouettes.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Post-Apocalyptic. Dilara Findikoglu AW17

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Wether you’re thinking of a Bulgakovian witch sabbath at the top of the hill or of a medieval painting presenting hell full of sinners, Dilara Findikoglu‘s show-stopping garments certainly are for very bad, bad girls (and above all,  for red-haired femme fatales à la the designer herself). For her autumn-winter 2017 collection, the Turkish designer went for anything that felt rebellious and bizarrely out-of-this-world at the same time. A tattered, worn-out-looking tartan coat held together by safety pins was a clear nod to punk; witchy symbolism and mystic illustrations present in embroideries covered Tudor-esque capes and semi-armors. Although Dilara has a soft spot for historic costumes – and especially their exaggerated silhouettes – she’s not interested in making glossy couture. Findikoglu rather sees her “new world order” clothes on a Marilyn Manson bride and bold characters, who are tempted by her truly unique aura. The models, transformed into fantastical female goddesses with horns and other charming oddities, looked as if they came out of a Hieronymus Bosch canvas. Exceptional.

Collage: Edward Kanarecki for Design & Culture by Ed. Images: Fernando Uceda / Lucie Rox / courtesy of Dilara Findikoglu.

Walk The Path. Louis Vuitton AW17

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The last few days of Paris fashion week were rather unimpressive, and that’s a pity, as the season had many great moments. While Miu Miu was quite a joke, Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s collection for Louis Vuitton made me think of the designer’s past. His work at Balenciaga was unforgettable – the vision of future wardrobe, über-cool spontaneity, memorable shoes. His very first collections at Vuitton were incredible, too. But for the last few seasons, Ghesquiere seems to rest on his laurels: biker-girl gears, satin dresses, sporty knits. Same story of a “contemporary girl”. Maybe he didn’t want to introduce anything new this season? Designers slowly start to turn their heads towards being permanent in terms of fashion. But Nicolas’ autumn-winter 2017 collection wasn’t classic. It didn’t have a spark. Well, yes, it was presented at the Louvre. But shouldn’t the clothes be in the spotlight? Big, corporate brands like Louis Vuitton tend to put pressure on things like settings, handbags, etc., but it hurts to see how Ghesquiere’s bright talent begins to drown.

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