Ceremony of Separation. Comme des Garçons AW15

March 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rei Kawakubo’s collections are always full of interpratations. Last time, it was all about red and it’s meaning. Now, it’s about black and white – but in a very metaphoric way. White – life. Black – death. Kawakubo went further and brings human’s biggest problem and fear into one, “painful” collection. The garments, made of many tones of white and black lace, had little, childish dresses embroidered on – disturbing and eerie at first sight. The serene and ghostly models moved slowly down the runway, and as they passed each other, a sad look was exchanged. As we usually “close” ourselves when we feel grief, every model had a hardened lace veil covering the faces or they were obscured by a sculptural cocoon by the master of hair-sculptures, Julien d’ys.

The collection made the guests of the show forget thinking whether “this will sell” or not. Everybody looked at the whole “ceremony” through their hearts and feelings. Rei Kawakubo proves again, that she is more than a fashion designer. She’s a poet which makes the emotions rage.

Terrific Wedding. Vivienne Westwood AW15

March 11, 2015August 5, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

With Paz de la Huerta closing the show, Vivienne Westwood’s Gold Label was all about a terrific wedding ceremony. And unisex fashion, too. The models oozed with non-chalance and aristocrat-wen-bad attitude; the glitter was everywhere. Girls wore over-sized blazers while the guys prefered dramatic gowns which lacked corsets – #freethenipple moment felt present everywhere. The chaos of this mad party had a riot tension – Vivienne celebrated all types of love in her gleeful collection.

Chic Punk. Haider Ackermann AW15

March 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann’s latest presentation for fall exuded chic and rock ‘n’ roll at the same time – the models red pussy bow shirts, pirate jackets, safety pins in their hair and leather trousers. Basically, that was a collection full of cool Haider signatures. The clothes were slim, but chaotic at the same time thanks to the mastered layering; the embroidery, which seemed refreshing for Ackermann was all about metallic stationery and print mash-up. “I wanted colour, I wanted to have fun” was how the designer described his collection. Definitely, that’s a go-to collection for a Parisian party with loud music, alcohol and cigarettes.

Technology Attack. Junya Watanabe AW15

March 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Junya Watanabe is considered as one of the most modernistic designer of our times. This season, he prepared another break-out which seems to be out of this world – thanks to high technology and Tomihiro Kono’s help, the AW15 season for the designer means the importance of maths. Isamaya Ffrench doodled mathematical equations onto the arms, legs and necks of the models while Tomihiro Kono created angular foam sculptures to sit on the top of their heads. The two Japanese geniuses worked together to create fashion in new dimension. The capes made out of hexagonal, laser & hand – cut textiles were fixed and improved for more than three months – it took a lot of time calculating its durability. If talking of the alien head-pieces, Kono approves – that was a hard thing to do. “I started to calculate the circumference using the diameter…it was like studying maths back at school. I made a column for the base of the head-pieces and then added some hair-wings in a radial pattern.” Definitely, science and fashion get closer and closer together each season…

Noir Creatures. Yohji Yamamoto AW15

March 10, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The poet of black, Yohji Yamamoto, pushes the boundary again in his avant-garde world. The dresses weren’t dresses anymore. They were a form of art installations. Like a parachute explosion worn over a black turtleneck. Or a vacuum cleaner overload. There are many interpretations of Yohji’s fall fantasy – one thing’s sure. The more ready-to-wear clothes were great, too. In the black palette, Yohji Yamamoto modifies knitwear, shirts and masculine-inspired silhouettes to form a new dimension. The layering impresses as usual, making the models magically drown in black. Styled with perfect fedoras, the outfits were eccentric and wearable at the same time – even though, some might have been still under construction.