Freeing. Ponte AW25

May 8, 2025May 8, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

See the animated version of the collage on my Instagram.

I was chatting recently with a friend who works in fashion, and we both came to the conclusion that Ponte – Harry Pontefract‘s highly elusive brand-slash-concept – is the most exciting and subversive thing to emerge in quite some time. It’s just so daring, transgressive, and disruptive of all possible industry norms. And lead by a truly rare talent.

“Operatic” is how the designer characterized his autumn-winter 2025 corseted dress and matching stole crafted from the fleece of approximately ten sheep. The fleeces were hand-felted and stitched together, then meticulously brushed out over the course of a week by a dedicated hairdresser to achieve maximum volume and softness (Kristen McMenamy is wearing the striking piece in the latest issue of Double Magazine, lensed by Juergen Teller). Another look embraced precision and minimalism: a pair of jeans made from deconstructed garments, stripped of every stitch, grommet, and fastening, then starched into a crisp, paper-like form. “It was quite beautiful just to do something as generic as denim,” Pontefract noted, explaining that time will naturally alter the rigid silhouette, softening it into drapes – an evolution that mirrors nature’s own cycles. Time is an important theme for the designer. You don’t really hear about brands that so consciously reflect on how it’s clothes will change – or even deteriorate – over time.

Having worked with Jonathan Anderson, known for his fashion “glitches”, Pontefract offers a quieter, more introspective approach. His label is small, his designs intimate. Here, boundaries blur – between past and present, body and garment – in ways that are both lyrical and provocative. Consider, for instance, a strap-on tutu–belt bag crafted from 40 meters of tulle. There’s a palpable boldness in this work, both in concept and execution. “We don’t and shouldn’t make things just because we think they’ll sell,” Pontefract said. “And I think that’s quite freeing.”

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Phoebe Philo Collection C

March 19, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

On a slow, unassuming Tuesday afternoon, without a single teaser or notice, Phoebe Philo has released her new season lookbook.

Philo’s third full act – titled “Collection C” – is a line-up coming from a confident, assertive woman who knows what she wants. I was just thinking out loud which designer this fashion month got it right in terms of the eternal question: what do women really want from fashion? Well, I think that Phoebe has an absolutely convincing answer. An entire collection of answers.

The collection (that will hit the stores in the second half of 2025) further explores the theme of continuality, something that the British designer introduced in her debut. There are elements that we saw in her previous offerings, but styled differently, more spontaneously: as if a real woman was about to run her errands, and the clothes were the supporting characters, not main heroes. Leather bomber jackets (the label’s major seller) returns in new earthy shades, just like the XXL cabas bag or pajama-like sets in subtle checks. Note how fresh and current these items look. It’s really not about the next new thing, but perfecting what you’ve already got. But there are also exciting new additions, like all the delightful teddy coats or fringed leathers (I wonder if it’s a shawl or an oversized clutch?). Philo also re-owns the modern-day pannier she did in her swan song collection for Céline, this time in a delightful, russet jersey skirt in floor-sweeping length.

But what strikes most in the new release is the overall mood switch. The nay-sayers of Philo’s eponymous endeavor used to point out how distanced and stern the woman she envisioned felt in her first collections. That’s definitely not the case in “Collection C”, where the models charm us with smiles, flowing hair and spilling bags (note the cabas in acidic green and fluffy texture!). The brand is growing organically, and women resonate with its ethos. A sense of celebratory joy is certainly in the air.

Phoebe Philo is in her element, and that shows.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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No-Nonsense. Talia Byre AW25

February 26, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you’re looking for an absolutely great emerging brand in London, here’s a clue: it’s Talia Byre and her no-nonsense take on what IRL women want. Stunningly cut shirts that borrowed from traditional menswear silhouettes (in checks and stripes); a nylon skirt with girlish sectioned pleats; charming, wool knitwear in vibrant shades of canary-yellow and sweet-lilac. What’s not to love?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Raw Femininity. Simone Rocha AW25

February 26, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simone Rocha channeled a tougher, rawer perspective on femininity, one close to her – and her 15 year old brand’s – heart. Faux-fur coats were sliced to ribbons halfway up from their hemlines, a gesture repeated across the collection, giving an animalistic, primary touch (and not-so-obvious sensuality). Jackets and skirts in Rocha’s tinsel-strafed bouclé tweed were also given the shredder treatment. The designer combined harnessing with lingerie, ruffles with chains, creating garments beaming with attitude.

That attitude was embodied by a cast of non-models, like the sensational actress Fiona Shaw who wore a duchesse-satin black gown. Rocha has been inviting characters of different walks of life to her runways for years; Burberry was certainly inspired this season by her always-working strategy of making clothes feel truly real.

ED’s SELECTION:

Simone Rocha Bow-embellished Faux-fur Pumps

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Organza Midi Dress

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Tulle Midi Dress

Simone Rocha Cropped Bow-embellished Open-knit Mohair-blend Cardigan

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Silver-tone Hair Clip

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Dolls. Conner Ives AW25

February 25, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

This one’s for all the dolls. Conner Ives presented his ultra-glamorous offering of eveningwear at Savoy’s Beaufort Bar, and one can easily imagine women strutting and striding in those fur-tripped numbers or Art Deco-ish piano-dresses during the night. The plum number with deep, plunging neckline was accessorized with fringe-y headwear made out of bottle caps, making it all feel not overly serious. That’s exactly Conner Ives’ sense of style: tongue-in-cheek-chic. The line-up emanated with a certain whimsy-but-cool, sexy-but-with-a-twist femininity, reminiscing Stella McCartney’s days at Chloé. Brits know how to have fun.