Folies Bergère is a Parisian music hall that remembers the moment Josephine Baker appeared on the scene ‘dressed’ in bananas only, playing her role of Fatou. A century later, Christelle Kocher taps this remarkable landmark as her autumn-winter 2017 show venue, opening a new, much more mature chapter of her brand. The atmosphere of the music hall significantly differed from previous Koché venues, which used to be much more into the streets and the least “fashion” districts of the city, while Folies Bergère, although forgotten by the Parisians, oozes with historic chic. And that was a quite well-considered background for the label’s neo-decadent clothes. Kocher continues her signature streetwear-meets-couture style, sending down a line of models wearing varsity jackets with intricate embroideries and feather trimmings. Sensual lace peeked out from beneath über-cool baseball shirts and loose shorts were treated with posh satin. This season, Koché is a go-to brand for dresses (in fuchsia, specifically), and not only. There were even heels in the show, the first time throughout the brand’s four season timeline. Progress is something the wave of new designers in Paris praise.