The King of New York. Marc Jacobs SS20

Traditionally, Marc Jacobs’ collection was the grand finale of New York Fashion Week. In a completely empty space, with different vintage chairs (painted white) standing in the middle as the guest seatings, a flock of paradise creatures emerged out of one side of the Park Avenue Armory, went across the audience, and disappeared. And then they came back, one by one, dancing and twirling according to Stephen Galloway’s choreography. A maxi velvet dress in orange, emberoidered with hippy florals; granny-ish knits with cats and kitschy landscapes; floor-sweeping gowns made for spectacular, late night dancing; patchworked denim flares; knitted mini-dresses that make you think of Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time in Hollywood and Margot Robbie’s Sharon Tate wardrobe; old school rockstar wife look as seen on Bella Hadid; another gorgeous ball dress and Savile Row-esque pantsuit… Describing each look in the collection is a non-sense, because they should all be seen. This was one of Jacobs’ most optimistic collections ever, full of dreams and emotions, love and happiness. For spring-summer 2020, the 60s, 70s and 80s were mixed and fused with Marc’s most beloved personalities and their bodies of work: think Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfelfd, Shelley Duvall, Anita Pallenberg and Marina Schiano. But simultaneously, it all feels… Marc. One more thing that should be praised in this line-up: it’s a mindful balance of wearable pieces that will actually sell in stores, and delightful fantasy. This is what the designer struggled with for the last few years. And he finally overcame it. Marc continues to be the ultimate king of NYFW. Dream a little dream of me

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

80s. Louis Vuitton AW19

Nicolas Ghesquière‘s autumn-winter 2019 collection for Louis Vuitton was an ode to self-expression, but also, a clear nod to the 1980s. You loved it or hated it. With a faux Centre Pompidou facade built inside of Louvre’s Cour Carrée (yes, one mega-museum of Paris in another), the whole scene was time transporting. Eccentric and eclectic, the jackets had big shoulders, skirts were over-the-knee and prints made you think of the Memphis Group. The leather skullcaps and colourful riding boots are here for a go-kart race. The most convincing looks were the ones near the finale: high-waisted pants, over-sized blazers and leather ties (they made think of Hedi Slimane’s last season debut at Celine, though…). Can’t say this collection is a favourite of mine, but it was a closing statement of Paris fashion week: the past is today’s fashion favourite sandpit to play in.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Get The Party Started. Marc Jacobs Resort’17

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Winning a CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year prize a day before means something. But for Marc Jacobs, it’s just a great reason to celebrate with a new collection. For resort 2017, Marc and his team prepared a mini-show, which appeared to be more than a dose of extreme opulence and surely in Gucci’s Alessandro Michele Italian-splendour taste, who took a seat in the front row. “We took Fall and made it kitsch, and went from YouTube back to MTV,” the designer said backstage, cheerful after his psychedelic outing of models wearing their hair tightly crimped, and storming the runway in already desirable MTV-logo sweatshirts. The voluminous silhouettes and platform boots from AW16 stay for good, but now, they are all splashed in fluo colours of shocking pink and electrifying blue. In some of the most Instagram-ed moments, the outfits looked as if they were straightly taken out of my all-time favourite “Sorry” music video by Madonna – note those varsity jackets, disco jumpers with sequins and, yes, cargo pants. Marc Jacobs makes me want to hit the dancefloor right now, even on a Thursday evening.

But the collection was not only about making 2005-and-so pop music relevant. Paradise was patched on the dresses, and it had a meaning in the entire show. “Just paradise, this fictitious idea” was on Jacobs’ mind. Zebra stripes, hula dancers – it’s rather like an old-school postcard from Hawaii or one of these must-go “kitsch” party outfit tips. Cool pussy-bows (also all in stripes!) styled with Barbie-pink sweatshirts would make it for a great, one-in-a-life-time club nights in the 80s. And undoubtedly, this bold bricollage of ideas and textiles, prints and embellishments, will nail it in this 2016.

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Yves’ Glamorama. Saint Laurent AW16

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According to rumours, Hedi Slimane is leaving Saint Laurent – which, perhaps, would be a huge relief for some. Indeed, the autumn-winter 2016 collection felt like a good-bye wave, if you compare it to last seasons. And, at the same time, it was the most Yves Saint Laurent collection up to date, coming from Slimane’s “skinny pants and grunge shirts” world. The big, big shoulders of 80’s; dazzling, sequin dresses; killer heels styled with sleek smokings. For a moment, Saint Laurent’s soul and the famous Le Scandale era revived, and stole the Paris Fashion Week spotlight. But then, the models were distinctly Hedi, as all of them had a below “size 0” posture. If this was the last show coming from ex-Dior Homme designer, then it has been quite impressive, even though some of these mini-dresses looked overly cheesy, rather chic. But, if this was another outing from Slimane… then I wish he leaves the house right now, just as I did a few years ago, when he was appointed to be the new creative director. I know, I am an anti-Hedi person. And honestly, is Anthony Vaccarello the right choice for the house (the next rumour…)? His design aesthetic seems to be too close to Slimane’s, as for me.

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Fire. Miu Miu RE16

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Paris was on fire yesterday! And not just because of the weather. Miu Miu had its Resort 2016 staging in a “Miu Miu Club” and Miuccia Prada truly outdid herself. The models, which looked like cool girls who “club” on Friday nights, wore layers of polos, python leather jackets and circle-shaped earrings which brought the mood of 80’s. And, yes, the logomania is on. The elongated t-shirts and cowboy boots had big, neon coloured MIU MIU all over them. Also, there was a throwback to Miu Miu’s summer 2010 collection – naive, youthful prints of cats and swallows were on mini-dresses and A-lined skirts. Fun, fun and fun. That’s how Miu Miu is described by Signora Prada. Definitely, today’s fashion needs some fun. And Miuccia approves.

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Über 80’s. JW Anderson AW15

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Two years ago, I would never thought that Jonathan Anderson, the minimal kid from the block, will go 80’s. This period has it’s echo in previous collections, but never so much as in AW15. Corduroy trousers, velvet tops, über-80’s prints, and eccentric earring – it all makes me think about those ladies which sit and gossip about everyone at the market. The shoes seem to be terrific, too – their exggerated buckles and aim to “shorten” the legs are so “un-fashionable”. This collection in overall is not a fashionable one. J.W. Anderson simply showed an ironic, slightly satiric point of view on people, which try to look their best and at the same time look super cheesy. Additionally, the cheesy way of dressing appeared in the 80’s – so now everything is clear.

But is cheesy the new chic? J.W. Anderson possibly imposes an old new movement in fashion. This “thing” is surely going to be a hot topic for fashion journalists.

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LA Strip Girl Gang. Rodarte SS14

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The Rodarte show not only brought LA coolness to New York Fashion Week, but also showed that Laura and Kate Mulleavy are not only good in designing red carpet gowns! Whole collection was inspired with 80’s in Los Angeles, were the strip clubs and nightlife was dominant with lots pf neon lights, pool parties and hangovers. The SS14 by Rodarte is very sexy- skimpy skirts; lots of bikinis with ruffles; tiger prints. But also the clothes had something more to say than their sexiness- these cool trousers and biker jackets are for strong women that are not scared of showing off their splendours and… more things. Summarising, the collection is cool and really breaking the limits of Rodarte sisters that always make NYFW… Of course COOLER.

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