Marc Jacobs, thank you for saving the New York Fashion Week from boredom oppression – all those “safe” and “layered” collections make me yawn, even though there are a few exceptions. The collection Marc Jacobs presented yesterday in the evening was just… jaw-dropping. Although the all-white, minimal venue of the collection felt unexpectedly too simple, comparing to all those extravagant settings Marc envisioned throughout the years, it was a perfect backdrop for the clothes. And the clothes were bomb, in one word.
Autumn-winter 2016 was all about gothic culture in fashion, mixed with an aristocratic, soigne mannered dames and grunge, off-duty slouchiness. Chokers, velve platform shoes (a la the ones Vivienne Westwood pulled off in the last decade) and all those extravagant embroideries on cardigans and dresses… then, the queens of darkness came out (Molly Bair slayed the runway – even Lady Gaga couldn’t keep up with her) in their voluminous, black ball-gowns with astrakhan capes. Laser cut floral PVC skirts and crotchet collars styled with elongated college sweatshirts had this striking contrast of old-school and the vintage tendency. The effect? Over-the-top, as usual at Marc Jacobs, but this season it was even more outstanding.
In fact, it’s a nonsense to list all of the season’s inspirations behind Jacob’s winter outing, because there were too many of them – from Winona Ryder in Beetlejuice to Gene Simmons’ Kiss band costumes, it’s visible that somebody still has balls in the industry to present playful fashion and not so easily selling ready-to-wear pieces. Bravo, Marc. You utterly win my heart – and graciously mess up with the system – of all the NYFW’s labels and designers that have presented their “fashion shows” this week.