Would you ever expect to see Veruschka in Acne Studios‘ lookbook? I knew you would say ‘nope’. But here we are – the supermodel stars in the brand’s resort 2018 collection. Her poses are spontanous, just like Acne’s styling. “The creative process was dynamic and easy; she was almost taking over,” Jonny Johansson explained. “And this is what we want, this is what’s real.” Very American denim-on-denim gears; over-sized polo shirts over skinny, red leather pants; a checked blazer and an Acne Studios signature hoodie. Veruschka von Lehndorff, completely make-up free, seems not to care much on those striking photos. This is precisely how style works at Acne: utility meets a kind of urban non-chalance, while a person’s attitude is undoubtedly more important than the actual clothes.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Here it is: Balenciaga resort 2017 collection. Logistically, the look-book has been released just few weeks before the actual clothes hit the stores – and it’s already a craving desire to see those pieces in real-life. It went public yesterday, causing my heart to skip a beat for a longer moment. So, what’s Demna Gvasalia up to for his first, fully designed pre-collection at the French maison? First thing’s first – the caps. Some might say that sending out a line of logo caps is a desperate move to become somewhat affordable, or at least relevant for a brand. But in case of Gvasalia, it’s different. His creative background at Vetements is based on underground, rave-like style. He doesn’t have to make himself look younger in the fashion industry. He loves going out with his friends on the weekends. And, I must confess – those BALENCIAGA caps work well with voluminous, striped caftans and maxi-dresses. There’s no philosophy behind, really.
The Georgian designer looks forward to the new season through smart continuity. He’s not a type of designer who flips prints and colours every season: over-sized, bazar totes are here since his first collection, just like the elevated corporate jacket. However, there are a few exciting additions, like the exaggerated flares, scuba-diving tops and beautifully ugly bermuda shorts. Gvasalia seems to understand the idea behind a pre-collection quite well – he’s aware that it’s the commercial part of his job, unlike the runway show. For some designers, who get too frustrated with all those pre-falls and resorts, it’s still a secret.
Crista Seya is a Paris-based, lifestyle brand that’s against the fashion system’s speed and commercialism. Cristina Casini and Keiko Seya, the founders, both have worked for years as stylists for publications like L’Officiel, Numéro and i-D. In 2013, the duo decided to launch their own label with an aim to release “editions”, not collections, of around 15 items – specifically, one edition per six months. No overproduction, no hurry – just a pure, creative process which combines highest quality craftsmanship with a cool French attitude.
“Each edition is the building block for a wardrobe,” says Casini. First edition was all about indigo blue, which came across cashmere knits and over-sized pants. Their latest edition was inspired with ethnic prints of Africa, however don’t expect bold colours – it’s rather about the delicate reference, not the theme of the collection. All of Crista Seya’s editions are available at the designers’ lofty studio in Paris’s Ninth Arrondissement, while stores and customers can pick and choose what they like from previous capsules – whether that’s a blue, masculine shirt, camel poncho or a voluminous sweater from the men’s line. Don’t forget that Crista Seya is a lifestyle brand. In the brand’s selection, you will find ceramic heads created in collaboration with renowned artist, Giacomo Alessi. Coming straight from Sicily, the heads were produced, unsurprisingly, in very limited quantities. Or, there are hand-sculpted combs from Japan that were dried for 30 years, along the traditional techniques. Summing up – Crista Seya defines defiance in today’s fashion industry.
Who’s that girl? Her daily essentials: red lips, a cigarette. She doesn’t care about trends, as her style is all about the mood. “My woman is real, sexy, a bit off-kilter; she’s not a bourgeoise.” This is how Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the designer behind Milan’s favourite No21, describes the girl who embodies his vision, who gives the attitude to his clothes. For resort 2017, the Italian designer delivered everything, from great clothes to off-beat, edgy styling. Sometimes, it was more about masculine part of the wardrobe, like the loose denim pants or poplin shirts. “She knows that a masculine touch makes for an alluring attitude, so she plays with it.” Maybe that’s not precisely about the gender-fluidity topic, but the beloved “shared” wardrobe is on the designer’s mind.
But then, we’ve got all these lace detailings, subtle cuts (continuing from autumn-winter 2016 checked sweatshirts) and flirty, striped dresses. Dell’AcQua tells an inspiring story of a simple white t-shirt, which is once all layered up under knits, or worn casually under a floral dress. A pastel-pink, silk varsity jacket is here, too. Shirts and tank-tops with patches which are so in-demand right now. To keep it even more twisted and unconventional, Alessandro debuted Dr. Scholl’s-like clogs, polished with bright satin. So good. Eclectism at its best, as you see. Dell’AcQua gives his unique character a wide range of must-haves to choose from next spring – and a lot of styling tips to snatch and make real right now!
Collage by me
It’s exciting to see how such label as Marques Almeida evolves. Firstly, the concept behind London’s favourite designer duo, Marta Marques and Pablo Almeida, was simple – ripped denim pants with the 90’s attire. But the apparel revival wasn’t the first and last invention of the Portuguese-born brand. The vision of Marques Almeida girl is always different with every season – but the youthful soul isn’t leaving these clothes even for a second. And this is easily seen in the model casting for Marques’ autumn-winter 2016 outing – few days before the show, the designers shared Polaroids of the friends, who were about to walk the closing show of the London Fashion Week. Naturally diverse models, as one of the designers said, weren’t over-dressed, in order to keep their real attitude, and not the posh versions of themselves.
The clothes weren’t ground-breaking, but there were many pieces that seem to be checked on the LFW must-have list – even though we’ve had a season of the truly beautiful collections from the British designers, Marques Almeida’s clothes makes you really want to have them. Maybe because of this rawness? The bold orange and fuchsia duvet coats prove that my not-so-stylish jacket for dog-walks ranks up. Utility, and style in one. The long, body skirts styled with elongated checked shirt is a bit grunge, which is already an approved trend that appears in a high number of collections. But of course there is the feminine side of Marques Almeida – the classic slip dress a la Corinne Day’s Kate Moss photographs.
You were good this season, London!
Who would have thought that Berlin is suddenly becoming fashion’s favourite city? After Gucci presented its spring-summer 2016 campaign photographed by Glen Luchford (club WCs, peacocks and rooftops – see it here), the creative director of Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci, took the edgy streets of Kreuzberg by storm. The pre-fall 2016 collection is not only great because of the location, which I deeply adore – Riccardo comes back to his roots, which are all about fashion, and not the celebrity circus. Masculine pyjama layered with a lace skirt; sharp apparel channelled by Irina Shayk; “cheesy”, pink ankle-boots styled with romantic shoulder-exposing tops. Although there are no literal references of the city, the collection is very close to Berlin’s youthful attitude – the girls in here twist vintage looking suits with rock’n’roll biker jackets and simple, yet soigné spaghetti-strap tops. In other words, Berlin’s urban chic is getting a refined revamp by a French maison. Good try, Riccardo. I’m into it.
Isabel, tell us – where should we go this winter, to wear knitted sweaters and shorts at the same time? Sheer mini-dresses? Even Paris is too cold for this type of extreme. Well… but if we forget about the European weather conditions, then I must admit one thing – the collection is good, and it really gives a leg. The knee-and-up boots which might warm you up already seem to be the next season’s must-haves. Anja Rubik looked stunning in the pleated mini-skirts. The poncho-like tunics and navajo-printed jackets are favourites, too. “I’m not 20, and I don’t have a butt like these girls do” she said after being spotted in one of the collection’s flesh-exposing pieces. Still, she was looking pretty hot herself. And confidence is the best accessory.
The impossible to pronounce CHEREVICHKIOTVICHKI (in Russian: Черевички от Bички ) stands for “a shoe by Victoria” in the old Slavic language, but said in a playful childish manner. The beautiful story of Cherevichkiotvichki begins in Lithuania where Victoria grew up surrounded by the remains of Soviet culture and the uprising of Baltic heritage. Born in the family of factory workers she grew up to be fascinated by the extinct utilitarian lifestyle and nurtured memories of her childhood past transforming them into series of everyday objects – shoes. This stunning self-taught shoemaker performs copious amounts of research empathizing traditional craftsman-ship between her London studio and the atelier in Italy. I am truly in love with this brand- the shoes feel so full of attitude, like if they had their own life! And the way the accessories are presented also feels unique.
Being Parisienne wherever you are might be hard. But Julien David proves for Resort 2015, that in New York, it’s about being a cool, slightly naive girl which loves flirty skirts, calm prints and comfortable sneakers. And the secret is revealed. This whole look-book and the free-attitude feels so good- and I wish you all a lovely Sunday!