Here it is: Balenciaga resort 2017 collection. Logistically, the look-book has been released just few weeks before the actual clothes hit the stores – and it’s already a craving desire to see those pieces in real-life. It went public yesterday, causing my heart to skip a beat for a longer moment. So, what’s Demna Gvasalia up to for his first, fully designed pre-collection at the French maison? First thing’s first – the caps. Some might say that sending out a line of logo caps is a desperate move to become somewhat affordable, or at least relevant for a brand. But in case of Gvasalia, it’s different. His creative background at Vetements is based on underground, rave-like style. He doesn’t have to make himself look younger in the fashion industry. He loves going out with his friends on the weekends. And, I must confess – those BALENCIAGA caps work well with voluminous, striped caftans and maxi-dresses. There’s no philosophy behind, really.
The Georgian designer looks forward to the new season through smart continuity. He’s not a type of designer who flips prints and colours every season: over-sized, bazar totes are here since his first collection, just like the elevated corporate jacket. However, there are a few exciting additions, like the exaggerated flares, scuba-diving tops and beautifully ugly bermuda shorts. Gvasalia seems to understand the idea behind a pre-collection quite well – he’s aware that it’s the commercial part of his job, unlike the runway show. For some designers, who get too frustrated with all those pre-falls and resorts, it’s still a secret.