#2016 – Jacquemus

December 28, 2016July 22, 2020 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s Paris, and it feels like a breath of fresh air coming along Jacquemus‘ autumn-winter 2016. The city of French fashion is undergoing a wave of youthful talent – and Simon Porte Jacquemus represents that perfectly with his extraordinary, yet wearable garments. “I would like there to be less industry and more poetry” is what he declared backstage, minutes before the show. It was all about a surrealist illusion this season – the dresses floated in the air and spaghetti straps were magically elevated above the shoulders. The exaggerated shoulders, although distinctly reminded the old, good Martin Margiela, introduced us to other arty shapes and geometric cuts – sometimes, they looked even too grotesque, as in case of the “mini-skirt” worn with a pastel-blue turtleneck. But what was the most genuine from the entire collection was the expanded accessory line – block-heeled “rond carré” shoes, asymmetrical gloves in tangerine orange and cute, kidney-shaped bags are the highlights.

Jacquemus frequently mentions his typically French child-hood as a continous inspiration for his collections and spring-summer 2017 is not an exception. But his newest “story”, as he tends to call it, is much more refined. The designer searched deep in Provençal folk culture, and he conveyed the mood of a sun-drenched, care-free French village girl in a brilliant way.

Jacquemus loves the term ‘naive’. There’s always something childish about his collections – for SS17, it’s definitely the setting of his venue: a fake, orange sun glowed at the end of the runway, radiating with summer nostalgia. First element of the show that caught my eye was a range of lovely, straw hats, or chapeau de paille if you prefer French. The dresses with voluminous sleeves and over-sized pinstripe suits are on everybody’s lips for spring, but Simon managed to make them look eternally chic. In fact, the collection isn’t about a new idea or silhouette. Borrowed-from-a-guy shirt, block-heeled shoes, geometrical culottes and sexy cuts are very Jacquemus. I guess that’s the appeal of this collection: it’s focused on weekend-perfect ready-to-wear with an arty twist.

Simon is the designer, who brings joy to the fashion industry – looking at his collections, you can forget about the world for at least a second.

La Santons de Provence. Jacquemus SS17

September 28, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simon Porte Jacquemus, like Christelle Kocher or Glenn Martens, is a represantative of Paris’ new generation of most daring and exciting fashion designers. Jacquemus frequently mentions his typically French child-hood as a continous inspiration for his collections, and spring-summer 2017 is not an exception. But his newest “story”, as he tends to call it, is much more refined. The designer searched deep in Provençal folk culture, and he conveyed the mood of a sun-drenched, care-free French village girl in a brilliant way.

Jacquemus loves the term naive. There’s always something childish about his collections, and this season it’s definitely the setting of his venue: a fake, orange sun glowed at the end of the runway, radiating with summer nostalgia. First element of the show that caught my eye was a range of lovely, straw hats, or chapeau de paille if you prefer French. The dresses with voluminous sleeves and over-sized pinstripe suits are on everybody’s lips for spring, but Simon managed to make them look eternally chic. In fact, the collection isn’t about a new idea or silhouette. Borrowed-from-a-guy shirt, block-heeled shoes, geometrical culottes and sexy cuts are very Jacquemus. I guess that’s the appeal of this collection: it’s focused on weekend-perfect ready-to-wear with an arty twist. And it’s quite easy to wear, if you take it off the runway!

Jacquemus AW16 in Southern France

July 7, 2016July 1, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

The young generation of Paris-based designers, like Demna Gvasalia or Glenn Martens, look towards night life, clubbing and this defiant, booze-fuelled attitude. But Simon Porte Jacquemus‘ namesake label approaches fashion in a different way – rather than seeing hoodies and dilapidated denim, Jacquemus is much more innocent and… happy. And as smily as the Southern French people, contrasting with rushing Parisians. That’s why Simon took his autumn-winter 2016 pieces near his hometown, between Marseille and Avignon, and with help of photographer Theresa Marx, created the e-campaign for his brilliant on-line store. The photographs present arty coats, skirts and knits, all in bold colours and styled in the most unpredictable ways.

“The collection is about reconstruction, when you have a lot of different clothes from a lot of different people, and you put them all together and you create something new. Like an art shirt mixed with a t-shirt. I wanted these images to have something to do with the idea of a washing line. I’ve loved washing lines since my childhood, so I wanted to do something like this.” Washing lines play a significant role in Jacquemus’ campaign this season. Being a boy coming from the South of France, he’s childhood was filled with washing lines everywhere on the streets and gardens… but in Simon’s world, they aren’t cliche.

Fanaberie. Louis Vuitton Resort’15

May 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nicolas Ghesquiere stays for good at Louis Vuitton- his latest collection was a first ever Resort collection presented on the runway. And as you surely know, it was in Monaco. The collection itself was a mash-up. The fabrics were mixed up (lace with knitwear), the colours were very radiant and vibrant and it all felt sweet and tasty. Ghesquière is still liking the fit-and-flare silhouette he introduced for Fall, but there was more diversity on the runway tonight. High-waisted, slightly flaring trousers will stir memories for fans of the leg-elongating pants he used to make at Balenciaga; on the other hand, embroidered slips with scalloped hems were among the least structured things he’s ever done. And because this was a Resort collection—in stores longer than any other season—the show ran the gamut, from a sheared fur coat to jersey T-shirt dresses. The handbag offering has grown, as well: The Petite Malle now comes with a chain handle, and he’s added a new, wide-mouthed bucket bag. In my opinion, it’s still not the fullest of what is hidden in Nicolas talent- but the collection has its strong points I like.

About the artist: Yves Klein was a French artist considered an important figure in post-war European art. He is the leading member of the French artistic movement of Nouveau réalisme founded in 1960 by art critic Pierre Restany. Klein was a pioneer in the development of Performance art, and is seen as an inspiration to and as a forerunner of Minimal art, as well as Pop art.

Femme Enfant. Jacquemus AW14

February 26, 2014October 29, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simon Porte Jacquemus is the moments most interesting and hopeful designer of Paris- his AW13 was setted on a Parisian swimming pool. SS14 was all about French beach relax and Grand Motte. And the new AW14 is… infantile. But with a taste. Inspired with his childhood toys and childish behaviours, Simon created a perfect collection for women who feel ethernally young. The fabrics used were also simbolizing youth- neoprene, hand embroidered smocks and very DIY object of daily use- clips. What I really loved, were the colours- pigeon blue, strong yellow, citrus red. And of course the signature of Jacquemus- white socks with white trainers. Old-time Parisian friends! Voulez-vous d’avoir du plaisir maintenant?