Revive Pierre Cardin, Please.

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Raquel Welch and Pierre Cardin photographed by Terry O’Neill.

I wish the house of Pierre Cardin went through a revival in a Courreges / Loewe kind of way. The heritage of futurist fashion left by Cardin would easily become a canvas for one of those ‘new league’ designers from Paris. Simon Porte Jacquemus, a match made in heaven if you ask me. His love for everything French and naïve would be unexpectedly translated into Pierre Cardin language. Glenn Martens of Y/Project – I can already see how this guy messes around with Pierre’s voluminous coats and geometric dresses, styling them with Chinese thrift shop heels and faux pearls. Oh, and the entire rebranding matter! Maybe M/M Paris can take this fantasy job? They are genius in everything they do. I hope that one day, Pierre Cardin will find a dreaming investor, who will spend a few hundred thousands to make this brand something more than just cheesy men’s blazers sold in declining shopping malls. Literally, this is what Cardin is today, unfortunately. And that’s a pity.

NET-A-PORTER

Men’s – Need For Speed. Loewe SS16

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Jonathan Anderson definitely had a blast during his last trip to Asia. In a Hong Kong antique shop, he found an early 18th-century screen from Japan—koi jumping over waves—that he thought looked so modern, it influenced him and his next collection. Loewe SS16 came from attempts of gathering something old and something new – tradition, culture and innovation, technology. That’s why there was a fuse of leather, which is Loewe’s heritage, and manga prints which are usually thought of as futuristic. But also, a topic of fast cars was moved and that is clearly visible on the bags and trousers. Not everything is totally clear in here, but with this collection Anderson proves he is the designer of tomorrow – looking forward to the following day, but not forgetting about the past.

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Tokyo. Dior Pre-Fall’15

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Raf Simons seems to have two personalities- one at his namesake label for men, where he doesn’t care about the rules; another at Dior, where he definitely obeys the bosses. Last season (SS15), in my opinion was trash. I truly couldn’t understand it. It felt like Simons explained it only by “oh, look, it’s like this, but look at those couture embroideries”… yawn. Come on, who cares about embroideries, if the clothes are so boring? Thankfully, Dior thought of something new for the house, which was smart. The pre-fall 2015 which was presented few days ago was organised in Tokyo- the place were Dior has it’s boutiques on nearly every street. Commercially, this is genius for the house. But for fashion? Raf Simons had his model walk zigzags in a huge sumo wrestling arena, inspired by the scenes of Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner movie. With fuses of futuristic influences (that badly reminded me of Paco Rabanne gold years) like silver sequined turtlenecks, jacquard motifs and wax cotton coats, Simons brought a lifey twist into his Dior timeline. And what’s interesting although the fact the show was in Tokyo, Japan, we didn’t notice even one kimono, manga print or anything of Japanese stereotypical fashion. Definitely, Raf looked at Japanese woman of the future- stomper boots, wide trousers and clean lines with neon elements. Plus, corn-rows and super kawaii eye-brows. Personally, I have no offend to Raf Simons- sometimes, he is just not on the point. However, this dynamic show proved one thing: not only that Raf has better and worse days in his life, but also that Tokyo is an amazing, energetic city of fashion.

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Just to be in the Japan mood- here are some amazing vintage posters from Wafu Works…

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1950's kimono

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