There are many reasons to adore Róisín Murphy. From her days with Moloko to the Italian-disco inspired EP titled Mi senti, this idiosyncratic Irish singer is a true gem. Even if you’re not a total sucker for her electronic tunes, you’ve got to admit that her style is bomb. While today she rather wears Vetements tea-dresses and garments coming fresh from graduate designers’ studios, back in her Overpowered period Murphy wore the most extravagant garments coming from, for example, Viktor & Rolf (she had a life performance at the brand’s spring-summer 2010 fashion show as well). But also, she had the most memorable Gareth Pugh coat moment in the video-clip of the album’s namesake track. Later, in Let Me Know, Róisín graciously danced and messed around in a cheesy bistro, wearing a Maison Margiela cape and bold fuchsia gloves (that was the moment I fell in love with fashion, really, at age of eight). And today, when I listen to Dear Miami or You Know Me Better, it’s unbelievable that Murphy was more ‘2017’ than any other musician today. Back in 2007!
Gareth Pugh‘s spring-summer 2018 look-book (the designer has ditched the runway to focus on fashion, not the frame around it) is one of those incredible, but underrated collections, which you’ve got to digest after seeing first. It was a literal explosion of forms and silhouettes, whether we’re speaking of the red column gowns or cage-like armours that resembled a surreal, outer-skeleton. It’s a season of colour, but none of the designers used red in such a furious way. Those red-splattered garments (they hardly can be called regular ‘clothes’) were as equally dynamic as the fire print that covered the dresses. My favourite part of this collection is definitely the crinkled, metallic story. The effect? As if Gareth dripped the body in liquid gold and let it dry. Or simply packed it in shiny wrapping paper. But of course it was much more complex than that! The collection itself isn’t everything that Pugh has in offer this season. Together with the visionary photographer, Nick Knight, the designer directed a thrilling visual that could easily be called a very hi-tech horror with emphasis put on jaw-dripping clothing. Note, it’s very NSFW.
Collages by Edward Kanarecki.
The theme behind Gareth Pugh‘s autumn-winter 2016 collection is women empowerment – which dangerously blurs between a strong political statement and S&M nods. The models, wearing exaggerated, yet appealing Mugler-ish silhouettes and leather skirts looked fierce and powerful – while the sleek blazers, sheer turtlenecks and gorgeous, leg-flattering flares in camel beige made these women feel as the ones you don’t want to mess up with – and surely not if you are man. What caught the eye of the observant ones were the details. Suitcases were handcuffed to models’ wrists; the aggressive “man-eater” masks were made of leather, and had this “danger zone” aura all aorund the place; painfully tied strings around the faces were surely trouble-some for most of the cast, but looked sharp with the plum-red lips. And this Tom-Ford-at-Gucci era vibe, which is a contrast towards Pugh’s previous, much more arty collections. Although I’m not ultimately certain whether I like or dislike this collection – it was one of the most confident and self-assured outings of the season.
Boudicca. England. Brave women. Gareth Pugh celebrates 10 years of his label, and this moment is seriously a highlight. In his AW15, the mad prince of British fashion brings fetish leather, sexy volumes and dark queen silhouettes, which all suggest one thing – the avant-garde British fashion is alive. Thankfully, Gareth Pugh continues Alexander McQueen’s legacy of fashion which got balls. For this specific show, the models had their faces and torso painted with red while the hair was cut in a boyish, home-like way. Fur, plastic, leather, wool were presented in a pretty sharp way, belted and covered with chains. I love this collection not only because its avant-garde and ultra-British, but because it’s not so retail-friendly… and it sums up first 10 years of Gareth’s fashion career.
Gareth Pugh is the designer that always shocks with his ethereal fashion. This time, he presented one of the best- totally made out from plastic, paper or fur- in one colour… White. Like a mind cleanse, the models wore white sculptural dresses, fur coats, piece of plastic for covering their boobs and Pharrell looking like hats… There was also the wind-it-up look, where the model had a huge key stuck to her back! It’s all a bit fairy-tale, a bit sci-fi (just see that silver polished look that is so dramatic!) and bit chaotic… Bug that’s why Pugh makes the most spectacular (not so about venue) collections coming from Paris.
Here is one in a year, super official and fashionable agenda of the coolest British Fashion people of the year! All photographs are by great Tim Walker for Vogue UK December… with the new Vogue editor, sexiest and best Kate Moss!After Cara we’ve got Edie. Edie Campbell. She is cool, isn’t she?The duo of the London fashion scene, Meadham & Kirchhoff. CHRISTOPHER KANE!!!Malaika Firth, model who covered Prada last Winter. She’s so cartoon like!Simone Rocha, the candy-bubble designer!Gareth Pugh, the darkest (and most creative) young talent under the sun (of Britain).Sam Rollinson. The Model.Nick Knight, the elegance is written in his name.J.W. Anderson, the psycho designer who will design for Loewe. That mean a next revolution!She looks pretty!Icon of Scottish fashion. Stella Tennant.Katie Grand, the editor of LOVE. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE.Stephen Jones, the famous miliner and editor.And Karen Elson. The girl that made the year.
John Galliano AW07 was inspired with Pigalle girls from Paris, wearing all these ornamental boudoir dresses and strong colour of red on them. From veiled streetwalkers to girls that had been dancing all night, models appeared with dripping make-up and carrying eerie broken dolls. The runway was like a fantastic dark circus- dusty and dark!During the Alexander McQueen show in AW06, models wore reindeer horns on heads, nomadic inspired dresses, gothic black gowns and amazing witch coats. That was the real fantasy of McQueen’s world we love. And definitely this collection would make at a haunted castle Halloween party…These knitted veils from Rick Owens AW12 collection channeled brutalism. Drawing on the classic beauty of Marlene Dietrich, a 1920’s bisexual icon who openly defied sexual norms, the model’s look was honeydew skin, coral lips and combed brows fenced by masks of gunmetal grey. Flowing volumes provided protective layers for his dominatrices whilst the silhouettes created a confusion of sinister and sexy. Relentless flames singed at the top of the runway as the models stalked the east side of Paris.Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture AW11 was a mix of skeletal silhouettes and organ-like textures. Coiled intestines, brain tissue and snake dresses aided the vision of couture cyborgs, confirming the ongoing influence of anatomical, architectural and scientific structures in her space-borne collections. Still sits in some’s nightmares.Gareth Pugh AW13 was a dull collection of recycled gowns with feathers, wood, trash bags… The headpieces made as shake, and the amazing deepness of darkness was a bit depressing. That’s what is called a scary Halloween couture. Costing a fortune, by the way…
As the Summer 2014 fashion month ended, there are new trends, rumours and facetious moments being summoned on different blogs and magazines. But, here, you will find the strangest, scariest, funniest, inhumane, and coolest things of the season! The venues, shoes, beauty and clothes were taken under consideration, so simply enjoy! (Above: The Givenchy venue showing a car crash in the middle of the runway.)
Marco Zanini, who had his last season at Rochas, presented an awful collection inspired with… well everything. I was never a fan of Rochas, but this season it was really eerie to watch this. The above shoes with crystal backs and shaggy front are really creeping out. How is it possible to walk in these? C’mon, Celine yellow fluffy heels last Summer were better!
Pat McGrath spent 12 hours on doing these masks at Givenchy with 40 other people. Isn’t it a bit of time-consuming beauty trend? It’s definitely art, but surely it won’t rule at DIY blogs this season. You need Pat McGrath to do it, of course.
There was something yeti like about Gareth Pugh SS14 wigs.
Jean Paul Gaultier and Louis Vuitton (whose designer, Marc Jacobs says bye-bye to us after 16 years) are trending this season a very interesting trend- denim worn under skirts. That seems pretty cool… and definitely mixed up!
J.W. Anderson. In other words, nothing here is simple as you may think.
Marc Jacobs in New York was a fashion epoque mash-up. Victorian era mixed with a beach party and Coca-Cola? I totally buy it. And the blond wigs… so cool! Plus, Cara Delevigne, Edie Campbell, Charlotte Free, Sky Ferreira and Georgia May Jagger where there.
Proenza Schouler presented a beautiful coat made out of… well, a rug? Who cares, it’s still beautiful. And this clutch…
Seriously, is Sonia Rykiel’s weather forecast is so bad for Summer? Are we goings to wear fur scarves around Paris soonly? Hopefully no, but… This fur looks awesome with these boudoir dresses.
Simone Rocha does crocs next season. With PEARLS. The world is near the end.
Comme des Garcons moved the topic of consumism and art… Definitely Rei Kawabuko’s dresses will be hitting the streets of Tokyo next Summer!
Chanel will have backbags for Summer! The look like taken from thrift shop, but calm down… They are going to cost about 5000 euros each.
Rick Owens revolutionized the runway with Soul Step group for his Furious collection. Clothes were blah, but the controversy- totally yes!
Christopher Kane has the best collection in London, presented somewhere on the streets. The inspirations with nature, street style and high technology are so OMG, that the collections landed in my “one of the best” list in my heart. Lovee…