Men’s / Strip Everything Back. JW Anderson SS18

June 16, 2017June 18, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Looking back at J.W. Anderson‘s memorable man-skirts or heavy boots covered with studs and flowers, you would never believe that the designer might suddenly do something so… simple. “No-fuss fashion basic-ness. Trying to strip everything back.” This is how Jonathan Anderson summed up his spring-summer 2018 collection presented at Florentine gardens of the Villa La Pietra (as a special guest of the season’s Pitti Uomo). And then he added, “I think this is the first season I’ve tried everything on myself. It was like going back into yourself.” Even the jeans are cut in the way he really likes it. And I like this type of cut, too – slightly baggy, cropped. Also, who doesn’t love a pair of off-duty Converse? Anderson collaborated with the sneakers brand for the upcoming season. Multicoloured heart patches bring on the hippie mood of carefree, summer nights. Chunky knits and tattered-looking jackets will be the perfect choice for a breezy beach day. Sometimes it’s worth going chinos and loose t-shirts, to just settle down and chill.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

In the Dark. Loewe AW17

March 11, 2017March 11, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In a completly darkened venue, Jonathan Anderson presented his autumn-winter 2017 collection. But darkness doesn’t neccesarly mean ‘dull’ for the creative director of Loewe. Quite opposite: Anderson sent down a line of sublime and feminine dresses, whether in pastel pink polka-dots or with shoulder-exposing sleeves. Then, those haphazard, yet elusive details that always catch one’s eye at a Loewe show: toast print on a hat, a kitty cat handbag. Trompe l’oeil effect in a number of his clothes was, just like the venue, an intriquing game with the viewer. “The collection is a continuation. Where will she go next? How does she survive?” If wearing a Loewe rabbit fur coat is the answer, I’m totally fine with that.

Focused. JW Anderson AW17

February 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson‘s collections at his namesake label are all about random ideas matched together in the most unpredictable ways – once it’s a medieval dress in tie-dye, then an over-sized crotchet knit. This season I haven’t felt that experimental spark, which makes J.W. Anderson so peculiarly elusive. Maybe that was the aim? Even though some of the skirts had ostrich feather inserts, while the jackets were over-small, Anderson’s autumn-winter 2017 wasn’t that impressive as usual. It rather felt like a season off; a fur coat, easy everyday dresses, floral motifs.

Men’s – Post Industrial. Loewe AW17

January 23, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s unbelievable, how Jonathan Anderson revamped Loewe. Three years ago, the Spanish brand was rather a yawn. Now, whether it’s a collection, presentation or cultural project, the designer builds a totally new, diverse language at the brand. His autumn-winter 2017 collection for men is even more twisted than usual. Anderson described this pack of wearable oddities as “a youthful eclecticism, something post-industrial.” Shearling boots and ripped tartan pants; ‘dilapidated’ bags and fluffy earrings; leather aprons and fleecy cardigans. Biker hats, the season’s must-have, are here, giving the scout-boy look. The look-book was photographed in a former steam engine, while Anderson’s new-season aesthetic has a revolutionary-like attitude. Is fashion going proletariat? That would be quite an oxymoron, with all the price tags. But…

Men’s – Charming Crotchet. JW Anderson AW17

January 9, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Pagan knights in shining armor. Layers on layers as a defense mechanism. Something knitty and cozy—the epitome of British craft.” That’s how Jonathan Anderson described his autumn-winter 2017 collection for men at his eponymous label. From granny-crotchet details (!) to XXL-scarves in bold orange and purple, the designer reminded every editor and buyer why London Collections MAN is still worth observing. Big brands like Burberry decided to combine menswear with womenswear due to financial reasons, while young designers… well, British menswear is struggling (except Wales Bonner, of course). But J.W. Anderson is a brand that’s always ahead of the rest in regards of a concept. Yesterday in the morning, Anderson presented a collection designed for a modern-day prince ~~charming~~, collage-ing medieval references (voluminous tops with big tabard sleevess, patches depicting stained glass windows on knitwear and jeans). In the evening, he and Alasdair McLellan launched an event at J.W. Anderson Workshop in London, selling highly-NSFW double-sided posters. In other words, expect the unexpected from Anderson, wherever you’re, whatever you’re doing.