Phoebe Philo Forever

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Ten years – a decade – means really something in fashion industry. Phoebe Philo’s era at Céline didn’t only change the course of fashion (minimal-slash-arty aesthetic; raw, Juergen Teller-like advertising; presenting pre-collections just before they hit the stores – many other labels follow Philo’s ‘rules’ like a prophet), but the way women approach clothing. Once the Céline woman goes for masculine, XXL coats that continue to sell like hot buns since Philo’s collections in 2010; then, the other time she takes a delicate slip-dress with lace inserts or a clingy, knitted sweater in olive-green. In her feature on Philo’s power, Cathy Horyn stated in the following way: Philo’s clothes were not just simply for women; they were also about women — their distractions, their routines, the way they stuff a bag under an arm or concoct an outfit out of a dress and trousers, their sideways longing for red-lipped glamour, their disdain for basics, their love of uniforms, their wisdom and maturity. Unlike other designers who do ready-to-wear, Phoebe didn’t bother with ‘telling stories’ – she just wanted the clothes to become a woman’s close friend.

 For me, her collections were the most anticipated moments during Paris fashion weeks, while the look-books were always like a sweet treat. Whether we’re speaking of Philo’s spring-summer 2013 fur-lined Birkenstock sandals, autumn-winter 2017 green blankets, autumn-winter 2015 white sneakers or spring-summer 2017 mega-big tote bag, it’s undisputable: she is the master of desirable, yet unconventional accessories. My heart bleeds, when I think of all the beautiful things Philo gave us while at helm of the maison. The rumour has it that the designer isn’t planning to lead a label anytime soon. Although that sounds devastating, it makes sense: Phoebe Philo frequently highlighted her urge for ‘slowing down’. Today’s fashion is at a insanely pointless, fast pace. I hope that 2018 will become some kind of ‘breaking’ year for all that.

Below, I’m looking back at some of my favourite Phoebe-at-Céline wonders.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki. Ad campaigns by Jurgen Teller and Tyrone Lebon.

When She Meets Juergen

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I rarely post editorials with celebrities, but this one is an exception. Rihanna kills it. Juergen Teller nails it. Vogue Paris, you really do know the meaning of the word ‘gift’.

Publication: Vogue Paris December 2017 / January 2018 Model: Rihanna Photographer: Juergen Teller Fashion Editor: Anastasia Barbieri Hair: Yusef Williams Make Up: Yadim

 

Remain

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Publication: Vogue UK December 2017 Model: Adwoa Aboah, Alewya Demmisse, Edie Campbell, Jean Campbell, Olympia Campbell, Matilda Lowther Photographer: Juergen Teller Fashion Editor: Venetia Scott Hair: Syd Hayes Make Up: Lucia Pica