That Woman. Loewe SS17

October 3, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Loewe by Jonathan Anderson isn’t another episode about an up-and-coming designer taking a big, heritage brand under his wings. It’s already the fifth season delivered by this fascinating, Irish designer, and it seems that with every collection, Anderson makes the house feel like his own universe. Jonathan doesn’t only focus on the accessory range, which continuously expands with new additions; he makes the ready-to-wear part an obsession of every fashion editor, and you will surely find the industry insiders storm Loewe’s store (along with Balenciaga) this season, and the next season.

What really makes Anderson’s Loewe so desirable, but at the same time far from mainstream, is the mood. Whenever I see a Loewe model on the runway, I have in mind a picture of middle-aged, Mediterranean raised woman, who lives in a modernist villa filled with contemporary art and biscuit-beige floor-covering. However, it’s not a film still, but rather a realistic vision of Loewe client. That’s why Loewe isn’t a pattern for Zara and H&M – it’s just too sophisticated and too multi-faceted to be copied by someone who doesn’t understand it.

At his namesake brand, Jonathan is known for precision in everything he does. At Loewe, he’s a creative director who, in comparison to other creative directors, actually has control over everything, from the stores’ furniture to perfume package. Thanks to that, Anderson focuses on every single thing, even the tiniest detail like a bag’s texture. “It’s a textured carpet, so we put it on suede, then we flocked it and then we washed it so you get it flat, yet it still feels soft to the hand,” is how he described the leather he decided to use for a new bag silhouette. The collection itself also took a thorough look at extreme workmanship and a sense of craft. “Torn” seams, loosely fitted collars and intriguing closures, among other details, were telling a story of highly sensual, super-organic clothes. Eclectic jewellery, featuring bat necklaces or ikebana-inspired flower bracelets, reassembled souvenirs from luxurious, oriental voyages. There are no themes in Anderson’s collections for Loewe. You can love it, or not.

Cyber Luxury. Louis Vuitton SS16

October 13, 2015October 13, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Spring-summer 2016 season at Louis Vuitton is his best to date. Nicolas Ghesquiere really did show his refreshing stance at the maison – cyber luxury is the best term that reflects the mix of exclusive logo prints and pink-haired model wearing highly hype (whatever this means nowadays) clothes. Nicolas definitely had Japan on his mind this time – the Harajuku girls with manga-inpired robot tiaras and platform sandals make this collection sharp, but with a slight bit of kawaii flavour coming straightly from Tokyo. However, the collection had something more ethnical, too – note the lovely hand-stitched embroideries on suede biker jackets below. Or the feather details on mesh tank-tops and badass gloves. This how you do ethno, Valentino – keep it discreet, but appropriate. But what really hit me this time, is the amazing talent of fusing fashion history that the designer is known for – the Victorian blouses with leather vests and medieval inspired gowns have never, ever looked so modern as in Nicolas’ vision. These shirts, dresses, motorcycle leggings and, yes, jumpsuits (!) are highly in need. Also, I am drooling over these leather, pleated totes – the beauty of these accessories makes them conceptual objects, rather than just “bags”.

Ghesquiere, and his model casting director, Ashley Brokaw, have the most diverse set of girls during Paris Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton is a world-wide known brand, and it should be praised for having afro, bald, mullet and even pink-haired models (so Grimes, Nicolas’ muse and favourite musician of the moment!). Thanks to Nicolas Ghesquiere, Louis Vuitton became a label, that is more than clothes and a vast range of accessories – now, Louis Vuitton is an open-minded, lifestyle project. Bravo!

Eclectic Girl. Gucci Resort’16

June 5, 2015June 5, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yesterday’s Gucci show was not only a surprise due to its appearance in New York. It was intriguing. And Alessandro Michele knows that. The new designer, who left the sex-drived Tom Ford and Euro-sleek Frida Gianini behind, makes Gucci a brand, which is rather all about eclecticism and vintage. The word “eclectic” came up constantly when Michele was talking about the collection backstage. He also talked of “love” fuelling the collection, which incidentally appeared on a sweater in French –”aveugle par l’amour”. So hippie and optimistic, which is what Michele’s vibe is all about. “I’m inspired by a lot of things – from the street, antiques, vintage wardrobes. It’s impossible to explain the exact point of inspiration. It’s about being free to love, free to express, free to show who you are through the way you dress,” said Michele. “Luxury means that you show the way you dress with eccentricity. It’s almost like a new kind of jetset – instead of roaming around the world, you’re roaming with your clothes.” As you see, even the approach to luxury, which is up to now an essence of the brand, has changed.

But coming back to the venue matter. Gucci chose a gallery space in New York’s Chelsea, furnished with Persian rugs. As a remix of orchestral soundtracks started up, the garage doors to the gallery were raised up and the models walked in from the street, where outside Glen Luchford was shooting a film. And the street is certainly where Michele sees his eclectic cast existing. No wonder why the clothes might (or even should) remind you of Williamsburg’s thrift shops and Milanese flea markets, where the clothes are all about kitschy embroidery and cheesy patterns. But in case of Alessandro Michele and his mesmerizing Gucci affair, it was all about hand-made embellishments (the snake!), gold glitter on the shoes, soft lace and imperial Astrakhan jackets.

Although the collection might seem to have many overkilling details, I am happy Michele is in the game. I am a bit fed up with all that “ugly chic” and minimalism which is practically everywhere. I felt a lack of beauty, romance and that 70’s freedom in fashion for a while. However, the new Gucci delivers that in a very proud, brave way. Interesting how the retailers are going to deal with all that sheer artistry.

Interview with Isaac Reina

June 4, 2015January 6, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

The list of inspirations that designer Isaac Reina names include architects and industrial designers like Jasper Morrison instead of the usual fashion suspects. That’s not to say that Reina doesn’t know luxury – he spent years at luxury leather giant Hermes, and collaborated with Maison Martin Margiela. It’s just that his version of luxury relies on what is not said, knowing when to use luxury elements and when to refrain from all the embellishments and other. I am happy to present you our June interview with this amazing leather goods designer from Paris!

How would you describe “the user” of Isaac Reina leather goods?

Architects, designers, photographers, graphic designers… For now, our typical client is someone extremely cultured and exigent who is generally looking for an alternative to big brands that are too much distributed. They find themselves in our products which are more discrete and confidential.

Are your leather goods “minimal” or rather “sophisticated”? Or both?

Both. We are always looking for the right balance between minimal and sophisticated. If we tend to do minimal work, we might forget some practical and useful aspects necessary in a bag or a wallet. If on the opposite we tend to do sophisticated work we might loose the strength of the first and formal essence of the product. Therefore, we are always searching for something ultra simple and sufficiently sophisticated or something sophisticated without excess.

You have studied architecture in the past. Does it influence your wallets, bags, backpacks, clutches and others?

Definitely. Because architecture is only made of geometry (square, circle, triangle…)which is also our tools and is a very similar approach. Of course architecture has its own techniques specific to architecture itself, like all profession has, very different but incredibly parallel in the projects.

How would you define “luxury” in nowadays leather goods industry?

Luxury itself doesn’t interest me. But I am interested in someone feeling at ease with one of our bag or wallet because the product conveys values and shapes that correspond and suit him/her.

Your brand is all about leather goods. Are you planning to expand the brand with shoes, etc.?

Not shoes at the moment. It is too difficult for me. But since a little time, i am working on new projects like stationary, small objects and furnitures to edit in the future. Why not?

Special thanks to Isaac Reina for sending me the exclusive photos of his showroom and store in Paris,

38 rue de Sevigne

Visit http://www.isaacreina.com for more.

Objects of Desire

April 8, 2015March 20, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

I am in love with the brand I am going to present you now – it’s Crista Seya. I mean, there are many labels which perfectly mix minimal with luxury. The Row, Lemaire, Hermes are all known to us! But surely, Crista Seya might be counted to that list. Her collections are divided in four editions, and in each the clothes are constantly available on request. Beautifully tailored shirts, awesome camel pantaloons and khaki ponchos – a dream. The white shoes from series 3 (a lot of normcore beige) are handmade in Buenos Aires, made from so-called kid leather and a cool “cut-out-edge” heel. The clothes from Crista Seya are fulfilled with everyday objects. Artisan vases, leather horse-necklaces, hand-dyed cushions. I mean, what’s better than a label which knows how to make your wardrobe and your home?