Men’s / Identity. Prada AW18

January 16, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Identity is what Miuccia Prada considers and rethinks the most this season. Well, a house like Prada can boast with a huge number of ‘codes’. But one of the most distinct is the “Pocone” nylon (a modified material that was previously used in packaging industry), which was introduced by her back in 1984 as a line of bags. They were best-sellers in the 80s, and they seem to be hitting the stores by storm with similar success in 2018, noting the current customer tendency for everything that’s nostalgic. This specific nylon was the key material in the opening, all-black looks. From pillow-y coats to bucket hats, it’s a conversation between utility and contemporary dressing. Not only was “Pocone” a Prada reference in this Prada show. Prada’s now-closed sister line, Prada Sport, made a catchy comeback as zippers and labels in signature, bold red. Also, note the prints – feeling a déjà vu? Monkeys, lipsticks, flames, bananas, Hawaii florals, beaches… those are all prints from past collections, remixed and re-matched. Models wore ID tags featuring cutout Polaroid head shots clipped to their clothes or bags – that brought a exaggerated, corporate feeling that perfectly matched the very industrial venue, so the “Prada Warehouse” of its Fondazione on the outskirts of Milan. A bit elegant, a bit geek – that’s what men’s autumn-winter and women’s pre-fall 2018 really is about, with a dose of Miuccia’s sophistication.

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Uni Boy. MSGM AW18

January 15, 2018January 15, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

If boys in Milan dress to uni like this, then I think I’m moving in. “We did an extensive casting in all the Milanese universities and we picked up great new faces,” Massimo Giorgetti said backstage before his MSGM autumn-winter 2018 show. It was staged in Milan’s historic Università Statale – no surprise, noting the presence of the very academic models. The ideas behind the season’s prints and attitude was, in a way, a field investigation. “While researching for the collection we scouted for new logos, and we found the best inspiration on school desks or on bathroom walls, scrawled with a web of layered graffiti,” the designer noted. There were the off-duty hoodies styled with more dandy-ish, checked pants; vintage-y knits and college jackets, made in duvet. It’s for the book-loving and for the night-out goers at the same time. “Less street, more chic, almost ‘bravo ragazzo’ (good guy)” – in other words, Italian goodness. Rather than going for something too nerdy, Massimo emphasized the youthful optimism, ready for the future.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Child’s Play. Marni AW18

January 14, 2018January 15, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Unfortunately, fantasy is rare in today’s fashion, especially in case of menswear. However, there’s an exception – it’s Marni‘s creative director, Francesco Risso, who doesn’t only convey a certain feeling of escapism in his work, but also makes it look extremely desirable. If you ask me, I would wear every single piece from his autumn-winter 2018 collection. From those ultra-big coats to fishing boots, from the haphazard, yet lovely, monkey-printed blazers to mis-matched sleeveless knits – everything. The two layered-up ‘blanket’ looks are totally fine, as well. Also, the season’s model casting is outstanding, featuring dandy-ish 40+’s, runway favourites (like Paul Hameline) and real Italian men. Really, really in love.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

When in Zürich. Vetements SS18

June 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Vetements‘ no-show spring-summer 2018 collection was a sensation in its own nature. Instead of a regular fashion show with models (wait – Vetements has never done a ‘regular’ fashion show, if you take a moment to look back at their shocking venue choices…), the designer collective lead by Demna Gvasalia exhibited over 50, real-size photographs in a Parisian warehouse. Photographed and styled surprisingly by Demna himself (no Pierre Ange Carlotti and Lotta Volkova this season…), these were the images of real real people in Zürich. The Swiss capital is the new location of Vetements’ headquarters, so deciding to keep it ‘local’ makes sense. The look-book presents everyone, from elderly women and families to bankers and goth teenagers, striking poses in new-season Vetements.

But is the new-season Vetements really new? If you’ve noticed looks that seem to be a déjà vu from the brand’s previous seasons – like over-sized checked shirts, deconstructed fur coats or a voluminous trench coat – then don’t be surprised. For this season, Gvasalia preferred to contemplate and reconsider, rather than create something absolutely fresh. Some of the pieces were recut and improved from the technical side, while others, like the Vetements signature tea-dress or cult Reebok trainers, went through small alternations (emoji prints, polka dots, surely to become next season’s hits). From one side, this concept is might be disturbing. Will Vetements stop developing creatively? Well, I doubt it. From the other side, that’s quite relaxing, as the brand suggests buyers and other labels, that its a non-sense to produce two (or more) totally different collections a year. Cherish the classics! Don’t rush for the new pair of shoes, if last year’s platform boots or cigarette-lighter heels will stay in the shops for good. Slowing the pace is right, from time-to-time.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Low-Key Luxe. Berluti SS18

June 27, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

‘Understated luxury’ is quite the term to describe Haider Ackermann‘s fashion at Berluti. It’s the designer’s second season at LVMH’s menswear-only house, and although it seems that his bad-boy aesthetic might not fittingly root in at Berluti, Ackermann finds the right balance. Haider’s low-key chic for very rich men (only they can afford the brand, in fact) oozes in those hand-crafted leather jackets, incredibly tailored coats and deluxe sweatpants. Even though Berluti isn’t planning to open a womenswear line, models (from icons Stella Tennant and Liya Kebede to runway regulars Mica Arganaraz and Kiki De Willems) appeared in masculine silhouettes. “Well, it’s always amusing to have women around. And they all borrow men’s clothes. It’s a healthy thing, a sexy thing,” Ackermann concluded post-show.