Marc Jacobs

Platform boots by Master John, 1973

Autumn-winter 2016 season was all about the height, as the designers had their heads in the clouds, from Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga platforms to Maison Margiela‘s stompers. But it was Marc Jacobs, who has stunned everybody with his soft-goth, high-drama collection, and the unbelievably high platforms. Presented in black, pastel purple, velvet pink and white, they already seem to be the cult piece of the season. Marc proved that he is the showman of New York, saying that he was inspired with the exaggerated glamour of drag-queens. But there was something of Winona Ryder’s character in Beetlejuice, and a dark-lolita attitude. Although it was Vivienne Westwood, who made platform boots legit back in the days, Jacobs also makes a sharp cut. Or rather, a STEP.

Marc Jacobs, thank you for saving the New York Fashion Week from boredom oppression – all those “safe” and “layered” collections make me yawn, even though there are a few exceptions. The collection Marc Jacobs presented yesterday in the evening was just… jaw-dropping. Although the all-white, minimal venue of the collection felt unexpectedly too simple, comparing to all those extravagant settings Marc envisioned throughout the years, it was a perfect backdrop for the clothes. And the clothes were bomb, in one word.

Autumn-winter 2016 was all about gothic culture in fashion, mixed with an aristocratic, soigne mannered dames and grunge, off-duty slouchiness. Chokers, velve platform shoes (a la the ones Vivienne Westwood pulled off in the last decade) and all those extravagant embroideries on cardigans and dresses… then, the queens of darkness came out (Molly Bair slayed the runway – even Lady Gaga couldn’t keep up with her) in their voluminous, black ball-gowns with astrakhan capes. Laser cut floral PVC skirts and crotchet collars styled with elongated college sweatshirts had this striking contrast of old-school and the vintage tendency. The effect? Over-the-top, as usual at Marc Jacobs, but this season it was even more outstanding.

In fact, it’s a nonsense to list all of the season’s inspirations behind Jacob’s winter outing, because there were too many of them – from Winona Ryder in Beetlejuice to Gene Simmons’ Kiss band costumes, it’s visible that somebody still has balls in the industry to present playful fashion and not so easily selling ready-to-wear pieces. Bravo, Marc. You utterly win my heart – and graciously mess up with the system – of all the NYFW’s labels and designers that have presented their “fashion shows” this week.