Corporate Cool. Jil Sander SS17

September 26, 2016September 26, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rodolfo Paglialunga is the creative director of Jil Sander for the second year, and throughout this quite long period of time (considering the industry’s pace), I haven’t seen even one, good collection that would stuck in my head. Jil Sander is called the ‘queen of minimalism’, and when she was departing the brand, she left a rich legacy for her successors. Rodolfo’s aesthetic is, honestly, obliged to be all about “less is more” while designing at Sander, but it sadly doesn’t feel authentic at all – it’s not him, and it’s not Jil anymore.

His spring-summer 2017 is an unexpected step forward, as it went under a ‘how-to-be-relevant’ treatment. Paglialunga isn’t revealing nothing but the fact he is obsessed with Demna Gvasalia’s style at Vetements. At least, there’s something to write about – the clothes, and the overall outing, is filled with covetable pieces, like an over-sized men shirt or a buttoned dress/coat. Removable shoulder pads drift between 40s masculinity and 80s Montana, elevating each look. Pinstripe blazers with matching skirts exaggerate the corporate dress-code, looking fairly appealing. However, that’s again an unsung nod to Gvasalia’s work, and specifically his debut collection at Balenciaga, where he did bureaucrat dressing. In the newest collection, Rodolfo plays with pleats, creating voluminous, distorted in proportions dresses and fancy sweatshirts. They are surely fun to wear. Also, the colour palette is well-considered: from pastel blue to carrot-orange, Paglialunga will surely score high points next summer.

50 Years. Bottega Veneta SS17

September 25, 2016September 25, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Bottega Veneta celebrates its 50th anniversary this season, but don’t expect an over the top venue or anything like that. Tomas Maier, the creative director of Veneta, is known for his classical approach to ready-to-wear, and of course, respect for the brand’s heritage of leather accessories. That’s why the idea behind spring-summer 2017 span around an iconic intrecciato woven clutch bag, which was carried around by Lauren Hutton back in a 1980 film, American Gigolo. History repeats itself: yesterday in the morning, the same person appeared in the fashion show, with the same bag. Hutton wore an elegant, beige trench coat (like in the film!). Absolutely make-up free. She looked stunning, as always. And the red, little bag was a cherry on the (birthday) cake. The memorable clutch, and 14 other archive bags will be reproduced.

Now, the clothes part. Maier is one of the leading designers who creates ageless garments with a seasonless neutrality. Anyone can wear them, from the young to the elder. The latest collection is divided into different colour palettes: the first looks were kept in olive-green, earthy tones. We had some great knits, luxury leathers and delightful rain coats. Then, there was a colour moment, where Karen Elson and Grace Bol wore beetroot-red robe dresses and fuchsia pencil skirts. In the end, the designer explored various shades of beige , mixing it with pastel elements. There was suede, there was cashmere – a combination of Bottega Veneta’s favourites. The Italian brand focuses on an menswear line, too, so no wonder why some of the looks were prepared for guys in this milestone celebration. Over-sized camel pants, loose sweaters and tailored biker jackets are just some of the men’s essentials.

Untroubled. Prada SS17

September 24, 2016September 24, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Instead of exploring the history of women, which I have for a while, I decided to take care of now, the present, and trying to find elegance.” After a deep-in-meaning, sophisticated autumn-winter 2016 filled with sailor hats and layered corsets, Miuccia Prada explores softer and lighter aspects of womenswear. No wonder why – you can’t avalanche yourself on and on with problems. Previous collection at Prada reflected the current migrant crisis, and the our biggest companion of 21st century – uncertainty. We’ve already seen a majority of collections during the spring-summer 2017 marathon, and it’s pretty clear that the overall mood is very optimistic. The designers want to cheer things up, even though they know it’s not that sweet and joyous in today’s world. Miuccia doesn’t appear to be so naive, but she attempts to look on the brighter side this spring.

First look, and it’s Milena Litvinovskaya, a newcomer in an all-black look: tank-top and knee-length kilt. Sounds familiar? That’s a striking reminder of Prada’s minimalism back in the 90s, when the ugly beauty style kicked-off for good. Second look, and the mood drastically changes. It’s Amanda Murphy, a runway veteran, in cream-white coat with ostrich feather-trimmed sleeves and Bauhaus-like buckles. The following looks are a continuing passion for 20s / 30s Deco-graphic prints and Old Hollywood allure, with pastel-pink dresses, loosely fitted midi-skirts and oriental pant-suits. The plastic-fantastic jewellery becomes heavier and denser, while the shoes state one thing: the uglier, the better. At a first glance, Miuccia is quoting her past signatures. However, the clothes fell fresh, and they convey a sense of elegance that matches the always-in-run tempo of contemporary world. For a change, they are (deceitfully) untroubled, too.

Wild Horses. Roberto Cavalli SS17

September 24, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Exactly a year ago, I was on fence with Peter Dundas‘ appointment at Robero Cavalli. Right now, I’m bewildered with myself, as I’m about to write an applauding review about his latest, spring-summer 2017 collection. It’s stunning, and so excessively Cavalli. And it’s crazy in love with rock & roll, sex and of course… love! Dundas looks back at the hippie 60s and crazy 70s, delivering Mick Jagger’s shirts, sultry boheme dresses, chic denim flares and patchworked maxi-skirts. The clothes aren’t too inventive and they will definitely hit a specific niche of Roberto Cavalli customers (think extremely tall, Italian donna with bangs and a yacht), but they literally look like authentic artifacts coming from wardrobe of Janis Joplin, and other music icons. Peter, the ultimate Playboy of the fashion industry, visibly craves to live in those times, filled with sun-drenched journeys to Morocco and lots of champagne. But who doesn’t?

Female Nomad. No21 SS17

September 23, 2016September 23, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Dell’AcQua isn’t resigning from his signature touches this season, like the ethernally chic macramé lace skirts or feather-trimmed tops. Simultaneously, he’s ready for introducing new attitude to his label: No21 has never been so athleisure-wise as it’s now for spring-summer 2017. Breaking down the first looks, it’s easy to spot the designer’s obsession with modernistic mesh, as it appeared everywhere, from the hems on loose dresses to sporty t-shirts. Hoodies are wherever you turn this season, but Dell’AcQua didn’t feel discouraged with that fact. His version, in lace and with a pastel-green zip, is über-cool. But it’s not only about the current street-wise mood at No21. Multi-printed, patchwork skirts and dresses suggested the look of a modern-day nomad who’s prepared for every day’s adventures. Care-free and optimistic, she wears her awakening tassels, opulent embellishments and gypsy-esque florals with grace. Also, I loved the way how Alessandro played with footwear: his kitten-heels were taped with fluorescent bows and, as usual in case of Dell’AcQua, were styled with beige socks. Pastel-pink loving No21 girl for spring dramatically differs from the sharp, grunge roxette we’ve seen for autumn. Oh, and the sunglasses line was a pretty new addition, too! Made in collaboration with the one and only, Linda Farrow.