Rodolfo Paglialunga is the creative director of Jil Sander for the second year, and throughout this quite long period of time (considering the industry’s pace), I haven’t seen even one, good collection that would stuck in my head. Jil Sander is called the ‘queen of minimalism’, and when she was departing the brand, she left a rich legacy for her successors. Rodolfo’s aesthetic is, honestly, obliged to be all about “less is more” while designing at Sander, but it sadly doesn’t feel authentic at all – it’s not him, and it’s not Jil anymore.
His spring-summer 2017 is an unexpected step forward, as it went under a ‘how-to-be-relevant’ treatment. Paglialunga isn’t revealing nothing but the fact he is obsessed with Demna Gvasalia’s style at Vetements. At least, there’s something to write about – the clothes, and the overall outing, is filled with covetable pieces, like an over-sized men shirt or a buttoned dress/coat. Removable shoulder pads drift between 40s masculinity and 80s Montana, elevating each look. Pinstripe blazers with matching skirts exaggerate the corporate dress-code, looking fairly appealing. However, that’s again an unsung nod to Gvasalia’s work, and specifically his debut collection at Balenciaga, where he did bureaucrat dressing. In the newest collection, Rodolfo plays with pleats, creating voluminous, distorted in proportions dresses and fancy sweatshirts. They are surely fun to wear. Also, the colour palette is well-considered: from pastel blue to carrot-orange, Paglialunga will surely score high points next summer.