That Look. Prada ’08 Goodness.

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You know, there are those certain looks that stuck in your head for longer than one season. Miuccia Prada‘s genius autumn-winter 2008 collection, which was a subversive take on a Sunday-at-church look (I was drooling over it here), is filled with lace pieces and ruffled heels that will never, ever, become outdated. Look 22 is particularly impressive, from the top to the bottom. Every detail counts. Vlada Roslyakova wore a beige turtleneck with a kind of mini-collar, layered under a soft, same-colour knit. The knee-lenght skirt, kept in a pale shade, looked fantastic, styled with gold pumps and a matching, cute ruffle bag. If you ask me, what’s a Prada look, then I will show you this picture. 101% sure.

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A similar look… Equipment sand cashmere knit, Jil Sander beige knit, Tom Ford cashmere and silk turtleneck, Facetasmt satin skirt & Valentino ‘Mary Janes’ shoes.

Beauty corner! Charlotte Tilbury ‘Kate Moss’ Lipstick, Charlotte Tilbury ‘Eyes to Mesmerise Kit’ & Byredo ‘Mojave Ghost’ eau de parfum .

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Posh Pool-Side Party. Miu Miu SS17

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It’s not that hard to distinguish a Miu Miu collection. Saccharine pastel colours? Checked. 60’s  prints your grandma wouldn’t mind? Checked. Fur for summer? Of course, CHECKED. In other words, Miuccia Prada‘s spring-summer 2017 collection is a pure definition of Miu Miu girl. Just like at her main-line this season, Miuccia cheers you up with naïve optymism. Imagining a fairy-tale of sun-drenched, Mediterranean vacations, the designer re-invents a wardrobe of pin-up bikinis, embellished swimming caps and beach-perfect retro dresses. The models, spanning from newcomers to runway favourites, wore wedge sandals and patterned (mink) robes. At first glance, most of the girls resembled  Slim Aarons’ posh characters of his dreamy photographs of surreal pool-side parties in the early 70’s. He made his career out of what he called “photographing attractive people doing attractive things in attractive places.” Basically, this is quite similar to Prada’s latest Parisian outing: layers, and layers, of attraction.

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Untroubled. Prada SS17

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“Instead of exploring the history of women, which I have for a while, I decided to take care of now, the present, and trying to find elegance.” After a deep-in-meaning, sophisticated autumn-winter 2016 filled with sailor hats and layered corsets, Miuccia Prada explores softer and lighter aspects of womenswear. No wonder why – you can’t avalanche yourself on and on with problems. Previous collection at Prada reflected the current migrant crisis, and the our biggest companion of 21st century – uncertainty. We’ve already seen a majority of collections during the spring-summer 2017 marathon, and it’s pretty clear that the overall mood is very optimistic. The designers want to cheer things up, even though they know it’s not that sweet and joyous in today’s world. Miuccia doesn’t appear to be so naive, but she attempts to look on the brighter side this spring.

First look, and it’s Milena Litvinovskaya, a newcomer in an all-black look: tank-top and knee-length kilt. Sounds familiar? That’s a striking reminder of Prada’s minimalism back in the 90s, when the ugly beauty style kicked-off for good. Second look, and the mood drastically changes. It’s Amanda Murphy, a runway veteran, in cream-white coat with ostrich feather-trimmed sleeves and Bauhaus-like buckles. The following looks are a continuing passion for  20s / 30s Deco-graphic prints and Old Hollywood allure, with pastel-pink dresses, loosely fitted midi-skirts and oriental pant-suits. The plastic-fantastic jewellery becomes heavier and denser, while the shoes state one thing: the uglier, the better. At a first glance, Miuccia is quoting her past signatures. However, the clothes fell fresh, and they convey a sense of elegance that matches the always-in-run tempo of contemporary world. For a change, they are (deceitfully) untroubled, too.

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Throwback Sunday – Prada SS04

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#ThrowbackSunday – spring/summer 2004

“It was about tourism and craftsmanship, many things,” Miuccia Prada said of her spring-summer 2004 outing. Few years after Anthony Minghella’s cult The Talented Mr. Ripley, a sun-drenched thriller set in Italy, Prada was going straight for sunny dolce vita á la Gwyneth Paltrow’s wardrobe and Jude Law’s idyllic escapades. On-the-waist skirts printed with Mediterranean scenes, Capri pants, bathing suits, evening frocks, silk bras and tulle dresses in earthy shades of brown – did you need anything else back in 2004 for a great summer season? It’s absolutely relevant today, by the way. This is what you call an Italian luggage for true, Roman holidays.

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Men’s – Pack Your Backpack. Prada SS17

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Last season, Miuccia Prada presented a disturbingly beautiful ode to sea odyssey and distressed sailors, a collection filled with sailor hats and over-sized, sloppy shirts. Naturally, it had a lot to do with the current, migrant situation, which paralyses European countries. But also, there was an idea of travelling (likely to unknown places), not necessarily to luxurious resorts and hotels. This season, Prada continues her travel motif, but back on a slightly safer land. Rather than sailor equipment, models wore durable, weather coats, boldly coloured nylon pouches with Prada torches inside and formal high-heels attached to classic, leather bags. “In case you want to have a beautiful evening,” Mrs Prada mused backstage. Ironically, because all the models were rather into ugly chic (introduced by Miuccia at the turn of 90s and 00s), all in sport sandals and woollen socks. Sleeveless vests had Velcro hoodies, just like at Marni, matching the straps which crossed the waists in slouchy way. Olivier Rizzo, Prada’s stylist, is indeed a master of styling – the outfits were so reliable that you wouldn’t distinguish a Prada model among real camping fanatics and members of an all-American Morgan family from Minnesota. But it wasn’t only about functional, yet pricey essentials for your next field trip to the forest or mountains. If you’re observant, you would have immediately spotted buddhas, palm trees and mariachi band prints on skirts and jackets for the women’s resort 2017 part. Mexico, India, maybe Scandinavian countries – somehow, all these different places on Earth were united in one collection, in one piece of clothing, without being to literal. “The core goal is to share with other people,” Prada continued. “Other cultures, other mentalities.”

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Moreover, this collection ispressing hard on Prada’s heritage, so the famous backpack, which revives in new textiles and colours. According to history, in 1984 the first nylon backpack was presented to Prada clients in their oldest store in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, leaving behind the dusty, ‘luxury-luggage brand’ past forever. A backpack is the symbol of Prada becoming a major fashion player, breaking the convention of elegance and giving other brands a sign – it’s the new chapter for accessories business. That was the first time when the fashion world heard a very down-to-earth, close-to-masses word: “utility”. And surely, spring-summer 2017 collection is the one which can be called utilitarian from the first look to the last one.

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It’s intriguing to see how Miuccia conveys messages in her clothes. This summer outing for boys (and for girls, of course) might just seem ugly to people, who say a loud NO to any form of socks and sandals (get over it, people!). But to others, it will appeal aesthetically, matching this current “rave” trend present on wild, off-beat parties and streets filled with Tumblr teenagers. However, I’m rather obsessed with the way these clothes are layered and matched in the most off-kilter way, and the attitude behind the whole story. Disparity and travelling from one to idea to another – that’s elusive and very, very exciting.

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