A Marni woman has her signature – she’s extremely edgy, all in her fancy, bold prints. But a Marni man is quite unclassified, and Consuelo Castiglioni understood that well. The lesson was learnt, good for her, and a much-above-the-average effect is here: spring-summer 2017 season at Marni is unexpectedly the best menswear collection to date, with a soft point for both, normality and eccentricity. You want to be this guy, really – he’s this skinny, good-hearted soul, with his hair brushed back nonchalantly; there are high chances you will spot him at Fondazione Prada, being in awe of Louise Bourgeois’ haunting sculptures, or see him in a park, reading a book. However, don’t think he’s like a Gucci man – oh no. This boy is into functionality, blurring his style somewhere between utility and playfulness.
Although at a first glance, most of his wardrobe seem to be pretty formal, there are a lot of surprising twists. Under an over-sized, beige cocoon coat, there’s a cheerfully printed blouson with an orange collar. The pants from this show are on everybody’s lips in Milan, even though we’re already after Prada’s nomad backpacks. Tailoring was sliced open in back and re-fastened with Velcro panels. Banal, isn’t it? But to an extend, Velcro fasteners seem to be unexplored in the world of high fashion, and only Marni could nail them. Consuelo re-sees boring clothes, and makes them as fun as children’s gadgets. A poplin shirt becomes cool a casual offer, rather than an office choice, thanks to additional volume in the shoulders. Meanwhile, footwear is too good to be true – and as you all well know, I’m a sucker for sandals, and Marni has some new, exciting silhouettes I would love to have… Bravo, Consuelo, for making your Marni boy relevant and, well, a life-goal!