Men’s / Lemaire SS18

June 23, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

A two-piece band from Berlin named Die Wilde Jagd performed during Lemaire‘s spring-summer 2018 fahion show, which was staged in an industrial garage space. Music, and specifically the one coming from Germany, played an important role for Christophe Lemaire‘s and Sarah Linh Tran‘s creative process this season. In a line of black and navy looks, suddenly a red cotton poplin overshirt emerged. “It’s super minimal,” Christophe said backstage. “I was really driven by all those German bands I loved from the ’70s and early ’80s, like Kraftwerk, this kind of stylish, German, super-normal thing.” Ah! The idea behind the unprecedented red came from “the cover of The Man-Machine. And the all-white look, that oversize zippered blouson and the sneaker boots, is a reference to La Düsseldorf.” Cultural context is all in fashion.

Back to the collection, Lemaire delivers its all time signatures for men, like perfectly tailored blazers, tank-tops for heatwave periods and spring-ready coats. The designers invited Portuguese craftsmen to produce the semi-closed sandals, making your grandpa’s footwear a thing to steal.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

#InstaLOVE – June 2017

June 20, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

@vogueparisarchives

I am an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you’re ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my June recommendations!

@loudoillon / The French singer’s doodles and captured moments, whether featuring her escape to Bretagne or a throwback pic with mum (read: Jane Birkin). A summer must-follow!

@papoozband / Ok, French musicians have the best feeds. Papooz’s Ulysse Cottin (lead guitar, vocals) and Armand Penicaut (rhythm guitar) are partners in their proffesional and private life. Lately, they’ve released the ultimate chill-out track (accompanying a dreamy video clip filmed in Japan) Good Times on Earth. What to expect from their Instagram? Lots of behind-the-stage fun.

@vogueparisarchives / Chic-ness. From early Inez & Vinoodh editorials to a Sofia Coppola shoot, this feed has the finest of Vogue Paris.

@mollymgoddard / Molly Goddard is London’s beloved girl. The fashion designer is praised for her great love for anything tulle and for making princess-dresses have a comeback to the industry. The picture above was taken minutes before LVMH Prize Awards last Friday (unfortunately, she didn’t win the main prize…). Still, that dress on the right is love.

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?

#InstaLOVE – May 2017

May 4, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

@lynettegarland

I am an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you are ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my May recommendations!

@sokothecat / This French actress (The Dancer) and musician (her latest track, Sweet Sound of Ignorance), Stéphanie Sokolinsky (aka Soko), is the ultimate definition of badass cool. With her post-grunge, punk-lolita aesthetic, the multidisciplinary artist has scored her place in the fashion world. Soko is the girl you want to have at your New York garden party. Alessandro Michele knows how to launch a Gucci fragrance with a wow: just bring Soko and Lana Del Rey under MoMA PS1’s roof. Petra Collins, Hari Nef, Dakota Johnson, hi!

@lynettegarland / Love Magazine’s stylist, recently working for Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs: take a look at Garland’s moody backstage images and black & white musings.

@graciehartzel / If she’s not modelling for the likes of Tom Ford or Chanel, Grace contributes to La Femme, a French psych punk band. Take a look at her intriguing DIY make-up looks once you hit her Instagram!

@saylouloumusic / Mirandra and Elektra Kilbey’s Say Lou Lou is a twin sister musical duo hailing from Australia and Sweden. Planning to listen to their songs, but for now it’s their sun bathed and chic feed that keeps we absorbed.

@_ju_lien_ / Julien Baulu is a Paris-based fashion consultant and researcher, who has a soft point for vintage issues of Vogue Paris, cult Elle covers and unforgettable Harper’s Bazaar editions. My magazine collection is quite a yawn comparing to his. A must follow.

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?

All That Jazz. Undercover SS17

October 4, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jun Takahashi is the designer behind one of the most avant-garde brand originating from Japan – Undercover. Every collection delivered by him is a separate story, subverting the reality of ready-to-wear into something much more sophisticated, nearly magical. For spring-summer 2017, Jun investigated the world of jazz, his favourite music genre. However, it’s not the mood of Chicago musical and sultry-hot “And All That Jazz” song! Saxophones were printed in an old-fashioned, trompe l’oeil-style on t-shirts and wide pants, while the last, spectacular looks were three leather outfits kept in a collage-like patchwork of drums, keyboards and trumpets. A new, fresh glance at a ‘dandy’ – worth considering next spring.

Men’s – Gender Culture. Casely-Hayford SS17

June 12, 2016June 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

The father-and-son duo, Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford, have many reasons to call spring-summer 2016 collection one of the biggest highlights of their career up to date. What pleasantly surprised everyone during the show was the fact that the fash-fam introduced a womenswear capsule, accompanying their festival-cool menswear looks. “We’ve been asked about doing it for years,” said Charlie. “Now felt right. We want to dress a woman who is a partner to the Casely-Hayford man—but she is very much independent and different to him too.” Their debut in the world of women was like the feeling of a breeze by the sea, so refreshing. Jacquard, which was used in coats production, was made with a more than 200-years old weaving mill, while the dresses with knitted details in sharp, summer-y colours, will be the right choice for warm days. Casely-Hayford is known for top-notch tailoring, but in contrast to their Savile Row friends who do strictly elegant suits, this label breaks the well-known conventions. No wonder why the women’s part was as focused on perfectly-cut blazers as men’s, and was equally edgy. The moodboard behind the collection was filled a variety of British music movements, from 70s rock and Jimi Hendrix to 00s grime and Mick Jagger. With all that diversity in mind, there was a sharp game of oriental patterns, paisley, bleach splashes and tie-dye textiles. Also, spot the richness of jewellery – tribal necklaces and pendants (which looked like great, flea-market finds) were worn nonchalantly by both genders with embroidered robe-coats and denim jackets. Looking forward to see how Joe and Charlie will continue their new, even more daring chapter in fashion!