Down to Earth. Rachel Comey SS17

September 10, 2016September 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rachel Comey‘s attitude to fashion has its down-to-earth, modest appeal. After having a look at Tom Ford‘s glamorous outing filled with grown-up celebrities, Comey’s outing is like a brunch with your friends – unpretentious and casual. The show was literally taking place on New York’s Crosby Street, just a few steps from Rachel’s flagship store. Chairs were set up on the sidewalk for guests, and the models, varying in age, size and look – walked down their path as naturally as it’s possible. In her press notes, the designer described the clothes as perfect for “farmer’s market,” or “to pick up the kids” adventure. But those pieces were far, far from boring. The chain skirt styled with a simple, white sweatshirt was outstanding; denim overalls and well-cut pants will sell out right away when they hit the stores. Also, Comey revives her menswear line with rainbow-striped cotton shirts and dad-style coats. Low-budget, but the result is impressive.

P.S. Instead of letting the models faint in the sun, because Kim arrives three hours late, and selling plain-looking trash-clothes to the masses, Kanye West could really take a lesson or two from Comey in “how to keep a fashion brand” subject.

Empowering. Tom Ford AW16

September 8, 2016September 8, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Fashion month kicks it off, and we’re all ready for the next marathon of womenswear. But surprisingly, New York Fashion Week starts with a first industry ‘paradox’. It’s September, and throughout the years we’ve got used to the fact that we start reflecting on the next summer wardrobe at the very beginning of the cold season. Tom Ford does the opposite, presenting autumn-winter 2016 collection, instead of spring-summer 2017 (which you will see a lot during the upcoming weeks). But he isn’t an exception – this new model of selling, so see-it-now and buy-it-now logic, is already in the process at Burberry or Thakoon. But why is Tom Ford, and the others, making it even more complicated, if we already have all those pre-collections and capsules? Well, in fact they want to make it all easier for us all, even though the transition moment is HARD.

Here’s why. Tom Ford presented his AW16 collection yesterday in the evening during a celebrity-filled dinner (Tom Hanks, Julianne Moore, Uma Thurman to name a few), and today, a majority of those clothes hit the on-line stores and boutiques world-wide. Looking behind-the-scenes, the international buyers ordered the collection months ago, Tom Ford factory had its time to produce the one-of-a-kind pieces, and the customers are really into buying those velvet skirts and sequined turtlenecks, because they feel so “relevant”. They just saw it on the internet and their heavily-Instagrammed feed. As easy as that – virtually, the sales boom. Logistically, everyone is appealed to this new deal, which will MAYBE slow down the pace of the industry.

But Tom Ford’s newest collection isn’t a sensation just because of its new, business strategy. This glamorous outing of diverse models (featuring 90s stars like Amber Valletta and todays newcomers) wearing feminine silhouettes and gorgeous accessories, is one of Ford’s best for a long, long time. Belted corsets on seductive leather jackets and slim pencil skirts. Ornamental, gold necklaces contrasted with elegant, tweed dresses, while over-the-knee boots made the models look even taller and badass. Mica Arganaraz and Lineisy Monero walked down the runway in colourful fur coats; Grace Hartzel, in her all-black outfit, looked like a rock’n’roll chick with whom you can’t argue. It sounds like a collection oozing with sex-appeal, a typical thing for Tom’s past, provocative Gucci-era. But in fact, it was much more mature, and it celebrated this specific type of killer woman, who enters the room and makes people drop. Guys in velvet blazers and duvet jackets looked nothing but harmless next to those girls. Ford definitely has a toast to a very good start of the fashion month, and his brands’ future of the revolutionary retail model.

Cool Goth. Marc Jacobs AW16

February 19, 2016February 19, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs, thank you for saving the New York Fashion Week from boredom oppression – all those “safe” and “layered” collections make me yawn, even though there are a few exceptions. The collection Marc Jacobs presented yesterday in the evening was just… jaw-dropping. Although the all-white, minimal venue of the collection felt unexpectedly too simple, comparing to all those extravagant settings Marc envisioned throughout the years, it was a perfect backdrop for the clothes. And the clothes were bomb, in one word.

Autumn-winter 2016 was all about gothic culture in fashion, mixed with an aristocratic, soigne mannered dames and grunge, off-duty slouchiness. Chokers, velve platform shoes (a la the ones Vivienne Westwood pulled off in the last decade) and all those extravagant embroideries on cardigans and dresses… then, the queens of darkness came out (Molly Bair slayed the runway – even Lady Gaga couldn’t keep up with her) in their voluminous, black ball-gowns with astrakhan capes. Laser cut floral PVC skirts and crotchet collars styled with elongated college sweatshirts had this striking contrast of old-school and the vintage tendency. The effect? Over-the-top, as usual at Marc Jacobs, but this season it was even more outstanding.

In fact, it’s a nonsense to list all of the season’s inspirations behind Jacob’s winter outing, because there were too many of them – from Winona Ryder in Beetlejuice to Gene Simmons’ Kiss band costumes, it’s visible that somebody still has balls in the industry to present playful fashion and not so easily selling ready-to-wear pieces. Bravo, Marc. You utterly win my heart – and graciously mess up with the system – of all the NYFW’s labels and designers that have presented their “fashion shows” this week.

San Francisco. Rodarte AW16

February 18, 2016February 18, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

San Francisco is more than hippie flowers, even though we have literally seen real orchidees as earrings and crowns on the models’ heads during the Rodarte show. Kate and Laura Mulleavy looked back at their collage roots, reinterpreting the city of their youth in the most original way ever, leaving the well-known stereotypes behind. The sisters had a seat at Caffe Trieste, where Francis Ford Coppola wrote the script for The Godfather; that venue, and the whole mood of old San Francsico inspired the collection’s nods to art nouveau. It all started with a few, black leather looks. And then, it was all about the ethereal whites, as if the Rodarte bride had her spectacular escape from a too cheesy wedding. But don’t get me wrong – these weren’t JUST white, wedding dresses. The veils were made of white fish net, the leather chokers and black lipstick gave a cool-goth look – this girl wasn’t looking for “love at first sight”, but for fun…

Knits Please. Ryan Roche AW16

February 17, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

With her autumn-winter 2016, Ryan Roche proves that her label is not only about the best quality knitwear – it also thinks about other wardrobe essentials. But still, the quintessence of the brand is the signature, cable knit cardigan in pale pink colour. It’s here, as every season, and it doesn’t stop to look like the best sweater in the entire world. Although I haven’t seen any of Roche’s designs in life, I bet their woolly texture should be super soft. With a soft spot for cashmere, specifically, the designer delivered a look-book filled with cozy, knitted (of course) maxi-skirts. Moreover, the collection featured a burgundy dress – smells with Victorian era in here – made entirely thanks to the old-school, granny crotchet technique. It’s a smart, yet short escape from Roche’s minimal aesthetics. It’s distinctly visible that the New York-based designer does her best to move away from her knitted comfort zone, by introducing some graceful, lace pants and peach-pink fur jackets. Concluding, your next winter wardrobe is sincerely supplied with Ryan Roche’s AW16 collection, I guess.