R.I.P. Pierre Cardin

2020 has far too many sad news. Pierre Cardin, the prolific avant-garde French designer best known for his geometric, space-age couture and his maverick approach to business that would reshape the French fashion industry, died yesterday in a hospital in Neuilly in the west of Paris. “It is a day of great sadness for all our family. Pierre Cardin is no more,” the family said in a statement. “We are all proud of his tenacious ambition and the daring he has shown throughout his life.” He was 98 years old. “I don’t like to stop, I like to continually prove myself,” Cardin said in an interview with CBS back in 2012, a sentiment that his tireless work ethic all the way up until his death pays testament to. Renowned throughout his career for his groundbreaking approach to both design and business, Cardin expanded his empire through licensing of everything from automobiles to restaurants (he turned Maxim’s, the historic Parisian Belle Époque restaurant, into a global brand), to hotels, jewelry, glasses, fragrances, furniture, and even tableware. Though the practice of a fashion house lending its name to a variety of different products and concepts is now commonplace, Cardin’s approach was pioneering. So too did Cardin revolutionize the business model of a high fashion brand by introducing the concept of ready-to-wear in 1959, a reflection of his firmly-held belief that quality design should be accessible to all. The fashion world won’t forget him.

Visit the maison‘s website to go through some of the most striking archive works by Cardin.

Lunettes Selection

Another spot to visit and buy at when in Berlin‘s Mitte district? Lunettes Selection. Whether you’re looking for classy sunnies or rare, vintage Pierre Cardin frames, that’s the right address for you. The store’s interior is simple, but eye-catchy (no pun intended…). The endless number of pharmacy-like shelves with a huge variety of glasses is here, ready to be opened and tried out. Take your time!

Torstraße 172 / Berlin

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Revive Pierre Cardin, Please.

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Raquel Welch and Pierre Cardin photographed by Terry O’Neill.

I wish the house of Pierre Cardin went through a revival in a Courreges / Loewe kind of way. The heritage of futurist fashion left by Cardin would easily become a canvas for one of those ‘new league’ designers from Paris. Simon Porte Jacquemus, a match made in heaven if you ask me. His love for everything French and naïve would be unexpectedly translated into Pierre Cardin language. Glenn Martens of Y/Project – I can already see how this guy messes around with Pierre’s voluminous coats and geometric dresses, styling them with Chinese thrift shop heels and faux pearls. Oh, and the entire rebranding matter! Maybe M/M Paris can take this fantasy job? They are genius in everything they do. I hope that one day, Pierre Cardin will find a dreaming investor, who will spend a few hundred thousands to make this brand something more than just cheesy men’s blazers sold in declining shopping malls. Literally, this is what Cardin is today, unfortunately. And that’s a pity.

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A Re-See

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It’s not Alessandro Michele, the designer behind Gucci, who made everybody fall in love with vintage fashion and nostalgia. And definitely, he wasn’t the first. Re-See is the result of long term collaboration between Sofia Bernardin and Sabrina Marshall, two fashion veterans who previously worked at prestigious Vogue and super chic Self Service magazine. One day, Sabrina and Sofia decided to bring the fashion-obsessed people their own, virtual boutique, offering a beautifully curated selection of authentic, pre-owned pieces in the perfect condition. The Paris-based on-line store has some real treasures, which appear to be fashion history’s most covetted pieces – like the super rare Goa bag by Hermes and a impressive collection of Nicolas Ghesquiere’s favourite pieces from his tenure at Balenciaga. Lately, the founders of Re-See dropped a wide range of Yves Saint Laurent from the 60’s and 70’s (the famous, hand-embroidered “Ballet Des Russe” gowns are here, too – Vyshyvanka by Vita Kin, take notes). However, what really makes Re-See so appealing is their way of presenting these one-of-a-kind, pristine condition clothes. Their signature, fashion editorial style and styling tips make buying luxury, yet vintage pieces a new experience.

More at resee.com – and here is a selection of my favourite pieces from their on-line boutique!

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CHANEL / PRE-FALL 2009 MOSCOW COLLECTION JACKET

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SAINT LAURENT / 1979 RUFFLED ENSEMBLE

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FENDI / FUR CUFF JACKET

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CÉLINE / 60’S HORSE-SHOE BELT

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MIU MIU / S/S 2010 TRI-COLOUR CAPRETTO BOOTIES

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SAINT LAURENT / 70’S MILITARY JACKET

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LOUIS VUITTON / RARE 1996 “CENTENAIRE” SHOULDER BAG

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MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA / WHITE SILK SCARF

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MISSONI / 90S SEQUIN TUNIC ENSEMBLE

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SAINT LAURENT / 70’S BROWN HOODED CAPE

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MIU MIU / S/S 2011 ELECTRIC SHIFT DRESS

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CHANEL / RED CAMELLIA BROOCHES

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PIERRE CARDIN / RARE VINTAGE VELVET CORSET ENSEMBLE

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PRADA / F/W 2011 RUNWAY SUEDE PYTHON BOOTS

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GUCCI / TOM FORD 2003 SHIRT

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HERMÈS / RARE VINTAGE ‘GOA’ BAG

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SAINT LAURENT / 1976 RUSSIAN COLLECTION DRESS

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LOUIS VUITTON / S/S 2010 PEG HEEL CLOGS

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SAINT LAURENT / 1960’S EMBROIDERED CANVAS ENSEMBLE

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BALENCIAGA / F/W 2012 METALLIC TONED TROUSERS

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JOHN GALLIANO SLIP DRESS

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SAINT LAURENT / S/S 2007 FLOWER-GARLANDED GOWN

Bubble – Trouble. Dior Resort’16

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Pierre Cardin’s famous Palais Bulles was fashion central yesterday with celebrities, journalists, and Cardin himself gathered for Raf SimonsDior Resort 2016 show. Le Palais Bulles is just that—a palace of terra-cotta bubbles set into a cliffside halfway between Cannes and Monaco. It’s utopian and kind of goofy in its infantile design .”Playful, sweet…childish, almost,” said Raf Simons, as he reflected on a venue he fell in love with five years ago, when he was first brought here. “The house is big but intimate, and it doesn’t behave like an authority,” he continued. “And Dior can do that sometimes, especially if you look at it from an architectural point of view.” But coming to the clothes – the warm, chilled-out shade of terra-cotta was mostly everywhere, on the silk mini-skirts to checked blouses. My total favourite was this dress above – made out of mesh and knitwear, it seems to be light, soft and fleecy. And the shoes which were inspired by Marie Antoinette are great, too. That was a lovely collection, Raf.

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