Vintage Chic. Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini Resort’17

June 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Philosophy, as a brand, is going through a renaissance with Lorenzo Serafini‘s creative direction. The latest collection for resort 2017 perfectly sums up Serafini and his aesthetic – it’s about a girl, who has a weak spot for vintage, or at least, vintage-looking clothes. The look-book is filled with fringed biker-jackets, French Riviera oozing denim flares and suede overknees. Little, floral mini-dresses are styled with chokers, and the overall style blurs somewhere between Camdem market finds and Siouxsie Sioux’s leather mini skirts. The details, like feather necklaces or studded belts, make Lorenzo’s collection look real and hearty, and real. It seems that Philosophy wearer indeed listens to old Rolling Stones vinyls and dances to Eurythmics. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini can be freely added to the list of Milan’s newly beloved labels, standing next to No21 or Stella Jean.

Get The Party Started. Marc Jacobs Resort’17

June 9, 2016June 9, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Winning a CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year prize a day before means something. But for Marc Jacobs, it’s just a great reason to celebrate with a new collection. For resort 2017, Marc and his team prepared a mini-show, which appeared to be more than a dose of extreme opulence and surely in Gucci’s Alessandro Michele Italian-splendour taste, who took a seat in the front row. “We took Fall and made it kitsch, and went from YouTube back to MTV,” the designer said backstage, cheerful after his psychedelic outing of models wearing their hair tightly crimped, and storming the runway in already desirable MTV-logo sweatshirts. The voluminous silhouettes and platform boots from AW16 stay for good, but now, they are all splashed in fluo colours of shocking pink and electrifying blue. In some of the most Instagram-ed moments, the outfits looked as if they were straightly taken out of my all-time favourite “Sorry” music video by Madonna – note those varsity jackets, disco jumpers with sequins and, yes, cargo pants. Marc Jacobs makes me want to hit the dancefloor right now, even on a Thursday evening.

But the collection was not only about making 2005-and-so pop music relevant. Paradise was patched on the dresses, and it had a meaning in the entire show. “Just paradise, this fictitious idea” was on Jacobs’ mind. Zebra stripes, hula dancers – it’s rather like an old-school postcard from Hawaii or one of these must-go “kitsch” party outfit tips. Cool pussy-bows (also all in stripes!) styled with Barbie-pink sweatshirts would make it for a great, one-in-a-life-time club nights in the 80s. And undoubtedly, this bold bricollage of ideas and textiles, prints and embellishments, will nail it in this 2016.

Spring Romance. Rosie Assoulin Resort’17

June 7, 2016June 7, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rosie Assoulin is always true to her style, and never forgets about that. But it’s wrong to think that she’s resting on her laurels – in fact, season-to-season, her signatures evolve and evolve, becoming even more craved. Staged in Meatpacking District, the presentation of resort 2017 is filled with those “wow, I need it now” thoughts. The designer makes you literally gasp, when you see one of her chiffon mega-flares worn effortlessly with a ruffled, checked top. Statuesque, but with a smile.

Rosie is known for dressing the stylish women of New York, but this season, she goes a bit farther, supposedly to Havana (which has a moment in fashion). Dancing maxi dresses, voluminous skirts and feminine silhouettes ooze with Cuba’s heat, while the joyous colour palette (from toned khaki and mustard yellow to crimson red and aqua blue) makes this collection a perfect transition wardrobe for both, winter months of deliveries, and the spring days, when these clothes will be “theoretically” worn. Not only the colours and shapes made this romantic collection so tempting. With a help of embroidered watermelons, carrots and grapes on an organza frock, Assoulin’s latest look-book is a feast for the eye. And definitely an essential top-lister of the resort shows.

Collage by me

Anglomania. Gucci Resort’17

June 4, 2016June 4, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Just a few weeks before Britain’s choice whether to remain in European Union, London has suddenly become the capital of resort 2017 collections. Firstly, Dior showed its mild collection in Blenheim Palace; secondly, Alessandro Michele, the creative director of Gucci, proved that Italian fashion goes in pair with anglomania. Covered with dark-green, needlepoint cushions, the famous Westminster Abbey was transformed into a venue for the most eccentric Michele’s show up to date (note: every show by Gucci gets even more peculiar and twisted…). Gucci girls and Gucci boys went down the Gothic church, all bold and playful, reivisiting cult fashion tribes of London. From Camden Market loving geeks to Rolling Stones fanatics in slim denim trousers and t-shirts (with old-school GUCCI logos – next season’s must-have), Alessandro praised Britain’s biggest style eras in this extremely non-chalant outing.

“To dive in this gothic sea of inspiration!” he began. “The punk, the Victorian, the eccentric—with this inspiration, I can work all my life!” The former, origing from Vivienne Westwood’s rebellious times of SEX boutique and Sex Pistols costumes, was reflected in tartan ball gown and badass, yet classy attitude of the clothes. One of the jackets was a perfect Victoriana sleeve sample, but all in baby-pink astrakhan fur; Thatcher-era Kensington grannies crossed the abbey during the show, wearing printed silk dresses and foulards on their heads; there was even a Spice Girl moment which will be remembered for long in the industry – rainbow striped platform sneakers HAPPENED, spicing it all up. It’s not a surprise that Alessandro thought of Scottish kilts, too – they were worn casually with lady-like, blue pea-coats. Chic, right?

Looking at this collection, you might be confused with all that opulence of topics, and even doubt whether this is still about so-called “good taste”. But Alessandro Michele, who made the ready-to-wear sales spike in this 95-year-old Italian brand, blurs the term. In fact, these outfits remind me of great, vintage-selling Instagram shops, which are loved for the extraordinary styling. Let me recommend you @the_corner_store – check it out by the way. .

Back to Gucci. While writing this, I’m listening to Siouxsie & The Banshees “Face to Face”, and I’m authentically feeling the mood conveyed by Michele. It’s rock’n’roll, slightly alternative, very theatrical – breaking the rules and even the system. Of course it’s not as radical as Westwood and McLaren – but it’s a leap away from all this safe minimalism which is trending for the last few years. And if I mention that I’m watching the second episode of 80s favourite comedy show, Absolutely Fabulous, starring Eddy and Patsy, you can imagine the affair I feel with this collection. Glam, over-the-top effect and never-mature clubbing lifestyle. I love it! Although Alessandro is an Italian, who loves embroideries and lace, he’s also an anglomaniac, obsessed with unconventional youth and aristocracy-meets-punk thing England is famous of. “You are part of the culture of Europe!” exclaimed the designer backstage, showing his love for British art, fashion and music side. I’m quite sure that if all the Brits take a peek at this collection, they will be sure about their vote during the referendum coming this month.

Pansies. Christopher Kane Resort’17

June 2, 2016June 2, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christopher Kane is obsessed with pansies. To this extend that he dedicated his whole resort collection to these small, springish, cheerful flowers. “Pansies are a symbol of freethinking! I like that. I never want to follow trends. Pansies also look like they’ve got cheeky laughing faces. And they’re all these colors because they’re crossbred. And that’s what I’m doing now—crossbreeding my ideas.” Cute. Just like the petal-shaped shoulders of satin dresses, girlish gingham skirts signature, woollen cardigans (in case you want to keep your inner pansy warm during cold, March days). The collection, presented in Kane’s boutique in London, looks back at Chris’ best-selling pieces, his love for flora (which is emphasized nearly each season, from embroideries on biker jackets to neon-yellow lace) and blush baby-Lolita style (see this look with goth-like gloves and a slip-dress. Grunge, but of course drowning in pansy print!). Miranda Priestly used to be skeptical about flowers – but Chistopher Kane really makes florals look ground-breaking for spring.