That Woman. Loewe SS17

October 3, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Loewe by Jonathan Anderson isn’t another episode about an up-and-coming designer taking a big, heritage brand under his wings. It’s already the fifth season delivered by this fascinating, Irish designer, and it seems that with every collection, Anderson makes the house feel like his own universe. Jonathan doesn’t only focus on the accessory range, which continuously expands with new additions; he makes the ready-to-wear part an obsession of every fashion editor, and you will surely find the industry insiders storm Loewe’s store (along with Balenciaga) this season, and the next season.

What really makes Anderson’s Loewe so desirable, but at the same time far from mainstream, is the mood. Whenever I see a Loewe model on the runway, I have in mind a picture of middle-aged, Mediterranean raised woman, who lives in a modernist villa filled with contemporary art and biscuit-beige floor-covering. However, it’s not a film still, but rather a realistic vision of Loewe client. That’s why Loewe isn’t a pattern for Zara and H&M – it’s just too sophisticated and too multi-faceted to be copied by someone who doesn’t understand it.

At his namesake brand, Jonathan is known for precision in everything he does. At Loewe, he’s a creative director who, in comparison to other creative directors, actually has control over everything, from the stores’ furniture to perfume package. Thanks to that, Anderson focuses on every single thing, even the tiniest detail like a bag’s texture. “It’s a textured carpet, so we put it on suede, then we flocked it and then we washed it so you get it flat, yet it still feels soft to the hand,” is how he described the leather he decided to use for a new bag silhouette. The collection itself also took a thorough look at extreme workmanship and a sense of craft. “Torn” seams, loosely fitted collars and intriguing closures, among other details, were telling a story of highly sensual, super-organic clothes. Eclectic jewellery, featuring bat necklaces or ikebana-inspired flower bracelets, reassembled souvenirs from luxurious, oriental voyages. There are no themes in Anderson’s collections for Loewe. You can love it, or not.

Draped Ethereal. Rick Owens SS17

October 3, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

After seasons of contemplating on humanity, Rick Owens looks at the brighter side of things for spring-summer 2017. Nina Simone on the show’s soundtrack (the show-note claimed that the designer listens to her everyday in his studio); joyous colour palette dripped in yellow; models wearing voluminous, extravagant silhouettes. Draping is a keyword for Owens’ latest creations, and this season isn’t an exception. Drifty dresses with fantastically sculpted, furry hems at the front stole the spotlight, just like the ethereal closing looks. For the last few pieces, Owens collaborated with Maison Lemarié, a Parisian atelier specialising in work with feathers and plume. The effect? Three, impressively fluid-like capes covered in ostrich feathers. In the dark world of Owens, it’s rare to say something is fairly tale magnificent: for spring-summer 2017, it’s a must.

Future Sex. Paco Rabanne SS17

October 2, 2016October 2, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Syntethic-white neck-pieces suggest an astronaut gear rather than a sexy French look. But Julien Dossena isn’t frightened to put FUTURE SEX on one of his spring-summer 2017 t-shirts for Paco Rabanne. Obsessed with sci-fi since his childhood, the designer consistently links out-of-this-world modernity with strange sex-appeal. In fact, two things Rabanne fused the best in the past. Today’s creative director smoothly draws inspirations from the brand’s archives, re-working iconic chainmail from the 60s into a relevant, light-weighted material for dresses, skirts and pants. But Dossena doesn’t rely on Paco’s signature only, as he’s comfortable with introducing his own, alien-lover tastes to the house codes. Hints of fuchsia peeked out from underneath the white lace dresses in form of chic tights; a black, leather mini-dress reminded us of Julien’s respect for timeless classics. Oh, and the studded flares: would Françoise Hardy take a pair of those in 2016? I know, a fantasy fashion collaboration. Still, highly anticipated.

Feminist. Lemaire SS17

October 2, 2016October 2, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran are a love couple. Simultaneously, they are two creative minds working under the same roof – Lemaire. It’s a pleasure to see how their designs for women evolve from season-to-season, and become quintessential in Parisian wardrobes. Really, along Phoebe Philo of Céline, they create clothes which define “feminist” to the fullest.

“Feminist” in fashion, though, isn’t about t-shirts with slogans (which appeared during Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut at Dior), but it’s a conversation between feminine silhouettes and masculine forms: there’s a soft, middle point in-between those two universes. Also, it’s a sense of individuality, and attitude. Christophe and Sarah-Linh understand that through nonconforming styling, one-of-a-kind accessories (take the wooden-bags) and even the statement show-closing, which involves models walk around the venue randomly, in a real-life motion. For spring-summer 2017, the designers proved they aren’t only masters of total-looks; they are geniuses in clothes-making. Crinkled dress worn over over-sized pants; peculiar volume of cognac-brown coats; dancer’s tank-top, pleated skirt and knitted, dove-grey tights is the most sensual look of the season. If you ask me, I live for such fashion moments as this show.

Excellent Palette. Rochas SS17

October 1, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s a distinct difference between Alessandro Dell’AcQua‘s Rochas, and his Milan-based No21. While his more youthful brand is about lady-grunge and exciting layering, Alessandro seems to be a mature man at the historic house in Paris. But first, lets praise Molly Goddard for reviving tulle and making it a “thing” in fashion industry. The trend spreads fast, and Dell’AcQua adores it. The first model emerged in a yellow frock, with pink tulle peeking from underneath, wearing knitted gloves in the same colour. Effect? Feminine, flirty and sweet. Colour combination fantasy didn’t end here: the creative director has a sharp eye for colours, and he’s a master of combining the most unobvious shades. In other words, the palette was excellent, from carrot-orange and lemon-yellow, to flesh-pink and forest-green.

After being appointed to his new role in 2013, it’s pretty clear that the Italian designer feels like home at Rochas. It’s intriguing to see how the brand develops under his wings – it’s becoming a favourite of such anti-celebrities as Soko, French indie-rock musician. She appeared in the front row with her boys (all dressed in dresses, accidentally matching the main focus of the collection). Fortunately, Rochas won’t end in the box of brands with “nice” dresses – it’s already far, far away from that point with it’s new off-kilter nature.