Two Faces. Creatures of The Wind SS18

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Although not much was going on at Creatures of The Wind‘s spring-summer 2018 fashion show, one specific piece of clothing stole the spotlight. The ‘stoner’ shearling coat, embroidered with cannabis leaves all over it. Looking back at Shane Gabier and Chris Peters‘ creative career, their Creatures of The Wind women is under a constant style/mental dilemma. Is she an edgy, hippie girl who adores eclecticism? Or is she an already established New Yorker career-woman with a thing for ‘arty’? This season, there’s a compromise, and the cannabis motif is a sign that the girl has a wilder side, while wearing office-ready white dresses or empowering leather trenches that had been re-dyed and painted.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki (I kind of see that coat being worn around tipsy Amsterdam…).

Madonna Day

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Although Madonna‘s birthday happens only once in a year, and it’s today, I wouldn’t mind celebrating her personality everyday. So if you’re one of those people who ‘hate’ Madonna for her being her, then you better leave this spot, as it’s a heavy appreciation post. Whether photographed by Steven Klein, Steven Meisel or Rankin; whether posing in boudoir, going dirty with Tony Ward or confessing her love on the dance floor; whether dressed in Italianesque black lace or an all-American gear – she’s Madonna. While exploring blogs like this one, fully dedicated to her persona, I’m awestruck with the way she has changed and keeps on changing. Just like in music, where she’s can be fully soaked with emotions and then become ecstatically happy. A style maverick and an extraordinary artist.

Happy Birthday!

Céline Blankets

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Phoebe Philo knows the art of laid-back like no other. And her autumn-winter 2017 collection for Céline proves that with a piece you surely haven’t predicted to become the new style trick. I’m speaking of the ultra-big blankets, that have a thing or two to say. Philo took her cue from a pub menu, emblazoning those fleecy, fringed shawls with ‘Beef Stew’, ‘Sticky Toffee Pudding’ and ‘Bangers and Mash’. Just imagine, how these heartfelt blankets might warm you up on a breezy day in the countryside this autumn (while eating one of Phoebe’s favourite dishes, I guess).

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

TBT: Dolce & Gabbana AW04

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Today, looking at a Dolce & Gabbana show hurts. The brand’s recent strategy to lure rich millenials through casting Instagram stars for their runway is, politely saying, ridiculous. Also, I don’t feel like writing much about Domenico and Stefano‘s pride in dressing America’s First Lady, or the latter’s drive for dramas and beefs on social media. But, even though it’s hard to believe it in 2017, Dolce & Gabbana used to do fashion. And really good fashion. Autumn-winter 2004 season is a great example of that. Inspired with Helmut Newton’s photographs and muses, the designer’s collection was about a hedonistic, ultra-chic, dramatic, yet powerful woman. Lots of sheerness, romantic lace, sassy fur, seductive satin – that was extremely Dee-Gee at the beginning of the millennium.  The models – from Stella Tennant and Mariacarla Boscono to Nadja Auermann and Karen Elson – killed the audience with their walks.

Boys Exit Courrèges

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Parisian fashion houses don’t stop playing musical chairs. While Clare Waight Keller and Natasha Ramsay-Levi are presenting their debut collections at Givenchy and Chloé respectively this September, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant exit Courrèges after just two years of creative direction. The couple was hired in 2015 by French advertising executives Jacques Bungert and Frédéric Torloting, who acquired Courrèges in 2011 from the brand’s namesake founder André Courrèges. Although Courrèges was the 20th century synonym of fashion modernism in Europe, the maison‘s name appears to be not as well-known as Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel or Balenciaga today. Actually, reviving Courrèges seemed to be complicated since the very beginnings. First, other old French brands like Paco Rabanne and Vionnet where being revitalised at approximately the same time, evidently with greater funds and patience. Second, Sébastien’s and Arnaud’s sophistication and desire to keep Courrèges a rather quiet, celebrity-free brand is hardly possible in today’s industry – unfortunately. And that’s quite a pity, as their collections intriguingly redefined Courrèges codes in a truly modern way – no big venues or fuss, but  pure focus on the clothing.

According to the official statement, François Le Ménahèze, who was named president of Courrèges in April 2017, will announce the brand’s new designer when the time comes. But what does the future hold for the extremely talented Meyer and Vaillant? It’s worth remembering that the duo set aside their well-received by editors and retailers label Coperni Femme to focus on Courrèges. Will they return to their roots? Or are they planning a new venture into another fashion house? For now, lets look back at the boys’ achievements at Courrèges.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.