Focused. JW Anderson AW17

February 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson‘s collections at his namesake label are all about random ideas matched together in the most unpredictable ways – once it’s a medieval dress in tie-dye, then an over-sized crotchet knit. This season I haven’t felt that experimental spark, which makes J.W. Anderson so peculiarly elusive. Maybe that was the aim? Even though some of the skirts had ostrich feather inserts, while the jackets were over-small, Anderson’s autumn-winter 2017 wasn’t that impressive as usual. It rather felt like a season off; a fur coat, easy everyday dresses, floral motifs.

Ladies Who Brunch. Molly Goddard AW17

February 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Molly Goddard‘s signature tulle dresses are London’s favourite. And that’s already a well-known, unofficially acknowledged fact. Her autumn-winter 2017 collection, however, differed from the last seasons. While last time Molly staged an acid-splashed rave party, yesterday’s show venue was focused on a long, Alice from The Wonderland kind of table. Goddard’s bruch was served – after the models walked around the runway, they took a sit and sipped red wine. Of course, wearing layers of blue, green and pink tulle.Whether voluminous, or more day-to-day, Goddard’s woman is a contemporary princess, who walks down the street as if it was royal ball. For those who prefer something more conventional, the designer introduced a range of boldly coloured pants, striped knits and simpler, floral dresses from a stretchy fabric. But, really, take the tulle, lady!

Curator Chic. Maryam Nassir Zadeh AW17

February 15, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Guggenheim’s basement. Dev Hynes of Blood Orange playing on the keyboard. That must be Maryam Nassir Zadeh‘s runway collection, situated in New York’s art mecca and under the spell of Dev’s magical rhythms. The location and music matter would score another brand such adequate number of Instagram shout-outs, that nobody would actually care about the clothes.

But even though the scenery was truly captivating, Maryam successfully managed to let her clothes steal the spotlight. Although it’s autumn-winter season, Zadeh’s latest outing felt summer-y with bright shades of peach and minimally sultry body-suits. Checked orange skirt took my mind to a Mediterranean coast, while a long-sleeved sheer top was pure sensuality. But there were fur coats and velvet blouses, too. Maryam thrives, consistently creating the wardrobe of a sophisticated, smartly feminine woman. A specific pack of women, spanning from artists to restaurateurs, adore her. I call Nassir Zadeh’s approach ‘modern-day curator chic’ – it’s elegant, but in a daily manner. It’s comfortable, but not slouchy. Women who wear her clothes curate, whether in their creative careers or private lives.

Up to now, it’s my favourite collection of the season. Brilliant.

Joyous. Diane Von Furstenberg AW17

February 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

American women praise Diane Von Furstenberg‘s fashion legacy for her iconic ‘wrap-dress’ – even Carrie Bradshaw used to wear Diane’s timeless design in one of Sex and The City episodes. But honestly, the brand itself didn’t spark much interest throughout the last years and DVF reacted just in time, by appointing Jonathan Saunders as the new creative director last year. That was the right choice, and the designer’s second season at the brand is a clear evidence for that. And it’s not only because of affordable price point for a truly flattering dress. Saunders makes Von Furstenberg a brand you want to observe and LOVE again. Surely, it’s because of his experience with textiles, which he gained at his own, now-closed label back in London. For autumn-winter 2017, Saunders offers the brand’s clients maxi- and midi- silhouettes of V-neck dresses in abstract, retro patterns. Sweet-like-candy fur jackets and fancy, geometric skirts will sell-out in a minute. Oh, and the colours – so addicting, so joyous. It’s good to see Jonathan back in action!

Desire. Area AW17

February 13, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Area is one of the most daring New York-based labels with its semi-glamorous aesthetic. The designers, Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk, prove that once again in their autumn-winter 2017 collection – which, by the way, was their big runway debut. The collection was dripping with sexuality, from fluid-like dresses in purple to crystal thong knickers. A fabulous, fur bra was worn over a t-shirt, while zirconia bangles and platform heels were purely about the attitude of a stripper-cool femme. Since launching Area, Beckett and Piotrek polish their home-made signature – sassy croc-like embossing, which consistently appears everywhere, from the dresses to pants. Now, the brand expands to ripped denim and rather commercial t-shirts with slogans like ‘J’aime Drama‘. But who doesn’t go for these tricks in New York right now? And fashion drama is definitely the thing that makes Area one-of-a-kind.