Vintage Chic. Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini Resort’17

June 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Philosophy, as a brand, is going through a renaissance with Lorenzo Serafini‘s creative direction. The latest collection for resort 2017 perfectly sums up Serafini and his aesthetic – it’s about a girl, who has a weak spot for vintage, or at least, vintage-looking clothes. The look-book is filled with fringed biker-jackets, French Riviera oozing denim flares and suede overknees. Little, floral mini-dresses are styled with chokers, and the overall style blurs somewhere between Camdem market finds and Siouxsie Sioux’s leather mini skirts. The details, like feather necklaces or studded belts, make Lorenzo’s collection look real and hearty, and real. It seems that Philosophy wearer indeed listens to old Rolling Stones vinyls and dances to Eurythmics. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini can be freely added to the list of Milan’s newly beloved labels, standing next to No21 or Stella Jean.

Spring Romance. Rosie Assoulin Resort’17

June 7, 2016June 7, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rosie Assoulin is always true to her style, and never forgets about that. But it’s wrong to think that she’s resting on her laurels – in fact, season-to-season, her signatures evolve and evolve, becoming even more craved. Staged in Meatpacking District, the presentation of resort 2017 is filled with those “wow, I need it now” thoughts. The designer makes you literally gasp, when you see one of her chiffon mega-flares worn effortlessly with a ruffled, checked top. Statuesque, but with a smile.

Rosie is known for dressing the stylish women of New York, but this season, she goes a bit farther, supposedly to Havana (which has a moment in fashion). Dancing maxi dresses, voluminous skirts and feminine silhouettes ooze with Cuba’s heat, while the joyous colour palette (from toned khaki and mustard yellow to crimson red and aqua blue) makes this collection a perfect transition wardrobe for both, winter months of deliveries, and the spring days, when these clothes will be “theoretically” worn. Not only the colours and shapes made this romantic collection so tempting. With a help of embroidered watermelons, carrots and grapes on an organza frock, Assoulin’s latest look-book is a feast for the eye. And definitely an essential top-lister of the resort shows.

Collage by me

Pansies. Christopher Kane Resort’17

June 2, 2016June 2, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christopher Kane is obsessed with pansies. To this extend that he dedicated his whole resort collection to these small, springish, cheerful flowers. “Pansies are a symbol of freethinking! I like that. I never want to follow trends. Pansies also look like they’ve got cheeky laughing faces. And they’re all these colors because they’re crossbred. And that’s what I’m doing now—crossbreeding my ideas.” Cute. Just like the petal-shaped shoulders of satin dresses, girlish gingham skirts signature, woollen cardigans (in case you want to keep your inner pansy warm during cold, March days). The collection, presented in Kane’s boutique in London, looks back at Chris’ best-selling pieces, his love for flora (which is emphasized nearly each season, from embroideries on biker jackets to neon-yellow lace) and blush baby-Lolita style (see this look with goth-like gloves and a slip-dress. Grunge, but of course drowning in pansy print!). Miranda Priestly used to be skeptical about flowers – but Chistopher Kane really makes florals look ground-breaking for spring.

Collage by me

Miuccia’s Warm Days

May 31, 2016May 31, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

When it’s sweltering hot on the streets and you dream of a cold splash of water… then take a look at Miuccia Prada‘s spring-summer 2009 collection for her main-line. Thank me later for this breezy throwback…

Like taken out of a classical, Italian film, the shameless femininity in this collection, filled with crinkled fabrics, pencil skirts and seashell earrings, brings the musings of a warm, summer night. The poetry behind this beautiful collection is kept in the intriguing manner of the clothes – dress’ straps and short jackets looked as if they were about to fall down off the models’ bodies. “It’s primitive,” Prada said, “going back to what counts.” Surely, this collection has counts like no other in 2016. And definitely, it can be taken as a good tip this summer!

Résumé. Balenciaga Pre-Fall’16

May 24, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Balenciaga is another label which postpones its pre-collection release, taking Céline‘s and The Row‘s path. Moreover, there’s another reason why this pre-fall 2016 collection is a major highlight for the house. In fact, it was designed between the abrupt period of Alexander Wang’s departure from the maison, and styled during the first days of Demna Gvasalia‘s appearance. The press release informs that the collection wasn’t fully supervised by Demna, so the autumn-winter 2016 can be called his official debut – however, there are distinct twists coming from Balenciaga’s design studio, which will be surely approved by all Vetements fans. From over-sized hoodies to floral dresses, some of the looks could be easily understood as even pricier pieces coming straight from Vetements’ showroom. The next, much more sophisticated, all-black looks worn by Stella Tennant and Julia Nobis aren’t that simple, though, focusing on Cristobal Balenciaga’s famous body-sculpture play. The collection quietly nods to Nicolas Ghesquiere’s era, with this must-have aviator jacket with a shearling collar. Not surprisingly, Alexander Wang’s three-or-so year-long “legacy” is erased utterly, and hopefully, it will never come back.

The idea of photographing the models in a Balenciaga archive warehouse is brilliant, and it shapes an image of a brand, which wisely balances the past and the future. The very commercial, fur stoles with huge BALENCIAGA written all over them will sell immediately, I guess, just like Gvasalia’s vision for the house. Not that this collection is a masterpiece. But still, it builds strong foundation for Demna, makes a résumé of the past, and eventually, might become the season’s best-seller.