When in Zürich. Vetements SS18

June 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Vetements‘ no-show spring-summer 2018 collection was a sensation in its own nature. Instead of a regular fashion show with models (wait – Vetements has never done a ‘regular’ fashion show, if you take a moment to look back at their shocking venue choices…), the designer collective lead by Demna Gvasalia exhibited over 50, real-size photographs in a Parisian warehouse. Photographed and styled surprisingly by Demna himself (no Pierre Ange Carlotti and Lotta Volkova this season…), these were the images of real real people in Zürich. The Swiss capital is the new location of Vetements’ headquarters, so deciding to keep it ‘local’ makes sense. The look-book presents everyone, from elderly women and families to bankers and goth teenagers, striking poses in new-season Vetements.

But is the new-season Vetements really new? If you’ve noticed looks that seem to be a déjà vu from the brand’s previous seasons – like over-sized checked shirts, deconstructed fur coats or a voluminous trench coat – then don’t be surprised. For this season, Gvasalia preferred to contemplate and reconsider, rather than create something absolutely fresh. Some of the pieces were recut and improved from the technical side, while others, like the Vetements signature tea-dress or cult Reebok trainers, went through small alternations (emoji prints, polka dots, surely to become next season’s hits). From one side, this concept is might be disturbing. Will Vetements stop developing creatively? Well, I doubt it. From the other side, that’s quite relaxing, as the brand suggests buyers and other labels, that its a non-sense to produce two (or more) totally different collections a year. Cherish the classics! Don’t rush for the new pair of shoes, if last year’s platform boots or cigarette-lighter heels will stay in the shops for good. Slowing the pace is right, from time-to-time.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Commedia Dell’Arte. Nina Ricci Resort 2018

June 21, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Guillaume Henry is getting better and better with every season at Nina Ricci. The labels’ autumn-winter 2017 collection presented a few months ago was, for me, one of the season’s biggest highlights. Today, we’re seeing the resort 2018 look-book, which is equally exciting. The colours! The silhouettes! The creative director’s main reference was commedia dell’arte – it’s a one-of-a-kind, Nina Ricci take on Harlequin, Pierrot and Columbine. “It’s in my blood to be bourgeois; it’s just a matter of being fun about it,” Henry explained. Indeed – canary-yellow fur coat and bumpy mini-dress, exaggerated volume of shoulders, fluffy pompoms on flats and huge collars bring aristocratic, even theatrical drama. What’s even more impressive about this collection is the way how Guillaume handled the theme. Those Harlequin-inspired shirts and coats don’t look ridiculous, but unbelievably refined. Also, greet the pistachio-green Tambour, a bag resembling a miniature drum. Genius.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Stay or Go. Rosie Assoulin Resort 2018

June 11, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Whether you’re staying at home or going out – Rosie Assoulin‘s collections are always a pretty good idea. For resort 2018, the designer has a truly inviting offering of clothes you want to wear, when everything starts to bloom and you feel like living again. From the spring-ready green coat and adorable bucket bags to pink overalls and striped pajama pants in navy, everything is insanely beautiful and most of all, wearable. Off to your local bodega or a gallery opening, these clothes perfectly balance between utility and this kind of arty edginess (take the fluroscent pleated gown, for instance). If you’re not entirely the ‘active’ type, no problem – Rosie has the super-slouchy knit awaiting your cozy day at home. Bon weekender!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: Edouard Manet’s ‘Luncheon on the Grass’).

I’m Mrs Power. Thom Browne Resort 2018

June 10, 2017June 10, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thom Browne does best tailoring-with-a-twist in New York, that’s sure. For resort 2018, however, the designer decided to leave surrealism for the main collection and rather focused on some of his most empowering looks to date. Those intriguingly cut suits, mid-lenght pleated skirts, cropped pants are elevating the meaning of corporate dress-code to another dimension. Crisp, white shirt is Browne’s brand essential, so no wonder why nearly every single look has something to do with it. But the Thom Browne woman isn’t only a lover of not-that-ordinary uniforms. Let’s not forget it’s a resort. A splash of yellow, blue and red is warmly welcomed in form of shirtdresses and light blazers. The designer has your back for black-tie events, too: PVC pencil skirt with a matching jacket; trompe l’oeil gown with over-sized shoulders; remarkably big, fur coat in deep black (of course). Love it all.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

In Motion. Marc Jacobs Resort 2018

June 10, 2017June 10, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

For resort 2018, Marc Jacobs wanted to convey the feeling of movement, which is so vibrantly present in the designer’s latest obsession: Robert Longo’s drawings of dancing figures. In fact, those clothes won’t look as good on a rack – they were designed to be worn, with grace. The little black dress is pure chic, and Marc might want to consider going this path of gorgeous dressses. Pencil skirts in pastel blue, lilac and pink are trimmed in plastic beads, making them ready for any night-out. To keep it downtown and Jacobs’ way, denim and slouchy knits were styled with more ‘event’ pieces.