Ritzy. Chanel Pre-Fall’17

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Whenever Chanel does a pre-collection presentation, you know every single detail regarding it a month earlier. The press is burning with the show’s fancy, far-fetched location; Instagram feed is all in #chanel. This time, however, Karl Lagerfeld and the legendary French maison decided to slow it down a bit with their PR – or at least, stay at home. And specifically, in the newly re-opened Ritz hotel on Place Vendome, just a few steps away from the brand’s flagship store on rue du Cambon. Although you can’t call this ‘modesty’, going a bit more traditional than usual is simply… reasonable.

In fact, there were three Chanel shows in one day – the first was presented during a chic brunch; the second started at the time of lunch; and the last during a fancy dinner. The guests (everybody from the fashion editors to couture clients) had a way better day than you, that’s for sure. The clothes were excellent comparing to the last few seasons where Karl did literary everything, from a faux women’s protest to a glossy IT room. I guess it’s because Chanel looks best, when worn in real Paris, rather than in non-sense, meaningless venues. The dining rooms of Ritz perfectly matched Lagerfeld’s vision of  cosmolitan elegance. Slouchy knitted cardigans and tweed pencil skirts; black tulle dresses styled with deluxe duvet jackets; shoulder pads and layers of pearl necklaces. According to the designer, the collection was an reflection of and ode to “people from all over the world who’ve come to the Ritz. There were hundreds of dinners in the ’20s and ’30s, where women wore incredible things.” But the most intriguing thing about this collection is the lack of the ’60s’, ’70s’ or ’90s’ tags, which are overused by others in the industry. “You cannot tell from the collection what decade it is, and I think that is modern“. Good point.

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Revive Pierre Cardin, Please.

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Raquel Welch and Pierre Cardin photographed by Terry O’Neill.

I wish the house of Pierre Cardin went through a revival in a Courreges / Loewe kind of way. The heritage of futurist fashion left by Cardin would easily become a canvas for one of those ‘new league’ designers from Paris. Simon Porte Jacquemus, a match made in heaven if you ask me. His love for everything French and naïve would be unexpectedly translated into Pierre Cardin language. Glenn Martens of Y/Project – I can already see how this guy messes around with Pierre’s voluminous coats and geometric dresses, styling them with Chinese thrift shop heels and faux pearls. Oh, and the entire rebranding matter! Maybe M/M Paris can take this fantasy job? They are genius in everything they do. I hope that one day, Pierre Cardin will find a dreaming investor, who will spend a few hundred thousands to make this brand something more than just cheesy men’s blazers sold in declining shopping malls. Literally, this is what Cardin is today, unfortunately. And that’s a pity.

NET-A-PORTER

Céline & Yves Klein

Phoebe Philo has never kept herself away from art references since she became the creative director at Céline. Rather than placing artworks as prints on basic t-shirts and easy-to-sell totes, Philo takes her time to discover the artist of her latest obsession. For spring-summer 2017, the designer took Yves Klein’s compelling legacy for a spin, and the effect is redefines the term ‘stunning’.

During the last fashion week in Paris, the guests at Céline witnessed Phoebe’s feminine flowy tunics and dresses as canvas for Klein’s most vibrant work from his Anthropometry period, which sparked controversy in the 60s art world. Yves’ shocking performances involved women, who painted their naked bodies before an audience to the tune his self-composed music. His famous use of ‘human paintbrushes’ paved the way for a new kind of performance art, while it also became a new technique of expression through painting. Yves always used to say that his art is filled with “poetic energy”: the dynamism rooted in his work is truly powerful, and it electrifies the viewer up to today.

In her latest collection for Céline, Philo celebrates every type of women – from mothers who come to school to pick up their kids to passionate lovers, spring-summer 2017 strikes with variety of characters. The pieces featuring Klein’s work aren’t just nods to Phoebe’s favorite artist. It’s about temperament; constant movement. The women who participated in Klein’s performance weren’t scared of the wave of criticism which primarily hit them for taking part in those “vulgar events”. Together with the artist, they expressed themselves through the medium of their bodies, and paint. The collection is as multi-faceted as women are, and Philo gets that better than any other designer today by playing with unobvious inspirations.

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Marine Serre

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Lately, Paris is the place where young talents emerge. The fashion industry has already been awestricken by the league of such designers like Simon Porte Jacquemus, Glenn Martens and Demna Gvasalia. But it’s all about boys… and it’s the high time for ladies – and here we’re with Marine Serre, who kicked off her Paris Fashion Week at The Broken Arm.

Always crowdy, and filled with chic Parisians, this store was founded by Guillaume Steinmetz, Anaïs Lafarge, and Romain Joste. Hidden in off-beat Le Marais district, it’s the place where you will meet all the editors during any fashion event in the city (forget touristic Colette…).  The Broken Arm sells a well-curated selection of clothes from Raf Simons, Balenciaga, Prada or Jacquemus – but instead  of choosing one of them, the owners decided to give the window-display space under Serre’s wings for the entire fashion week.

Marine Serre is a French graduate from La Cambre Mode school in Brussels. After fruitful internships at recognised brands (Maison Margiela, Dior, Balenciaga), Serre decided to go her own path. Radical Call for Love is her second season, and it appears to be her break-through moment. The collection, as the designer says, “projects the combination of 19th century Arabic luxurious garments with corporate sportswear branding aesthetics of the 1990s and 2000 into a futurist oriented fashion.” Radical Call for Love is somewhat a visual comment on “urgency and contemporaneity by the tragic events in Paris and Brussels in 2015 and 2016.” The message the designer convyes is presented in metaphorical way, being slightly exposed by Islamic symbols, interestingly transformed into logo-like branding and faux-Nike headbands.

More here.

Rave with Chic. Balenciaga Resort’17

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Here it is: Balenciaga resort 2017 collection. Logistically, the look-book has been released just few weeks before the actual clothes hit the stores – and it’s already a craving desire to see those pieces in real-life. It went public yesterday, causing my heart to skip a beat for a longer moment. So, what’s Demna Gvasalia up to for his first, fully designed pre-collection at the French maison? First thing’s first – the caps. Some might say that sending out a line of logo caps is a desperate move to become somewhat affordable, or at least relevant for a brand. But in case of Gvasalia, it’s different. His creative background at Vetements is based on underground, rave-like style. He doesn’t have to make himself look younger in the fashion industry. He loves going out with his friends on the weekends. And, I must confess – those BALENCIAGA caps work well with voluminous, striped caftans and maxi-dresses. There’s no philosophy behind, really.

The Georgian designer looks forward to the new season through smart continuity. He’s not a type of designer who flips prints and colours every season: over-sized, bazar totes are here since his first collection, just like the elevated corporate jacket. However, there are a few exciting additions, like the exaggerated flares, scuba-diving tops and beautifully ugly bermuda shorts. Gvasalia seems to understand the idea behind a pre-collection quite well – he’s aware that it’s the commercial part of his job, unlike the runway show. For some designers, who get too frustrated with all those pre-falls and resorts, it’s still a secret.

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