When in Zürich. Vetements SS18

June 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Vetements‘ no-show spring-summer 2018 collection was a sensation in its own nature. Instead of a regular fashion show with models (wait – Vetements has never done a ‘regular’ fashion show, if you take a moment to look back at their shocking venue choices…), the designer collective lead by Demna Gvasalia exhibited over 50, real-size photographs in a Parisian warehouse. Photographed and styled surprisingly by Demna himself (no Pierre Ange Carlotti and Lotta Volkova this season…), these were the images of real real people in Zürich. The Swiss capital is the new location of Vetements’ headquarters, so deciding to keep it ‘local’ makes sense. The look-book presents everyone, from elderly women and families to bankers and goth teenagers, striking poses in new-season Vetements.

But is the new-season Vetements really new? If you’ve noticed looks that seem to be a déjà vu from the brand’s previous seasons – like over-sized checked shirts, deconstructed fur coats or a voluminous trench coat – then don’t be surprised. For this season, Gvasalia preferred to contemplate and reconsider, rather than create something absolutely fresh. Some of the pieces were recut and improved from the technical side, while others, like the Vetements signature tea-dress or cult Reebok trainers, went through small alternations (emoji prints, polka dots, surely to become next season’s hits). From one side, this concept is might be disturbing. Will Vetements stop developing creatively? Well, I doubt it. From the other side, that’s quite relaxing, as the brand suggests buyers and other labels, that its a non-sense to produce two (or more) totally different collections a year. Cherish the classics! Don’t rush for the new pair of shoes, if last year’s platform boots or cigarette-lighter heels will stay in the shops for good. Slowing the pace is right, from time-to-time.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Low-Key Luxe. Berluti SS18

June 27, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

‘Understated luxury’ is quite the term to describe Haider Ackermann‘s fashion at Berluti. It’s the designer’s second season at LVMH’s menswear-only house, and although it seems that his bad-boy aesthetic might not fittingly root in at Berluti, Ackermann finds the right balance. Haider’s low-key chic for very rich men (only they can afford the brand, in fact) oozes in those hand-crafted leather jackets, incredibly tailored coats and deluxe sweatpants. Even though Berluti isn’t planning to open a womenswear line, models (from icons Stella Tennant and Liya Kebede to runway regulars Mica Arganaraz and Kiki De Willems) appeared in masculine silhouettes. “Well, it’s always amusing to have women around. And they all borrow men’s clothes. It’s a healthy thing, a sexy thing,” Ackermann concluded post-show.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / For Robert. Ann Demeulemeester SS18

June 26, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sébastien Meunier‘s spring-summer 2018 collection for Ann Demeulemeester was a clear message: a romantic ode to Robert Mapplethorpe, the late New York-based photographer. While some designers resign from mood-boards and straight-forward references, Meunier decided to fully convey his respect for the artist. In fact, the forever elusive persona of Mapplethorpe has much to do with Demeulemeester’s house-codes and legacy. For instance, the New Yorker of the 70s and 80s had an intense love relationship with Patti Smith – a muse and long-time friend of the brand’s founder. That’s quite a connection. Then, the dark aesthetic of Robert’s work and his personal style. Probably, if you could pick the best Ann Demeulemeester kind of man, then the choice would be clear. The clothes say it all: loosely-fit black trousers; sheer tank-tops; robes with a poet-like feel. But also, crumpled white shirts and lots of charms and pendants. Although Meunier definitely took the softer image of Mapplethorpe (distant from leather kinkiness), the designer succeeded reaching his goal.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: Robert Mapplethorpe’s photographs).

Men’s / Boyish Hues. Dries Van Noten SS18

June 25, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

After celebrating a significant anniversary last season – specifically his 100th collection – Dries Van Noten decided to show pure, menswear brilliance. Everything is in-demand: the hues (which spanned from pigeon grey and pastel blue to military green and peach), the outerwear (see those trench coats) and even the extra-short shorts (most debatable trend of the fashion week in Paris). Van Noten’s boy might both, sit in the library for days or be a member of an alternative rock band. Whoever he is, I’m secretly planning to steal his wardrobe…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Heroic. Rick Owens SS18

June 25, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Heroic garments need exposure – that’s why Rick Owens took his models to an elevated runway, which spanned above a Parisian courtyard. Although the city was going through a heat wave that day, Owens sent a line of voluminous trousers and fluid-like tank-tops. Some of the guys carried huge, cuboid pouches, while others wore lengthy coats. As usual, it was all about the silhouette: the designer is known for his unique skills in draping and sculpting clothes. Finding beauty in the odd counts to Owens, whether he means diverse model casting or creating his own avantgarde. “I’m seeing this kind of normality in the world that’s being lionised and deified and personally that is my personally refrain in life, ‘I need a freak’. I need somebody to make effort and it needs to be rare and not banal and not prosaic or conventional,” he told Dazed. Meaningful.