Dolls. Marc Jacobs SS19

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On the last day of New York fashion week, Marc Jacobs sent out a line-up of human-size dolls. But no Barbies here – rather, those old-school dolls dressed in delightful, dreamy dresses every girl used to want in her life. Many considered Jacobs’ collection as ‘too much’, while I thought it’s just the right amount of fun, glamour and honest fashion joy. At some points dangerously saccharine, the collection was a nod to Karl Lagerfeld’s early years at Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent’s voluminous, multi-coloured moment in the 80s. It’s Jacobs’ second season of going fashion-history-heavy, but this time the result is much lighter and not that exaggerated. While fashion insiders note how badly Marc does in his ready-to-wear sales in the recent seasons, it’s visible that the designer doesn’t really care about that and continues to keep New York’s fashion on track with his mind-blowing outings. I mean, we can’t just stare at baggy pants and Phoebe Philo knock-offs, right? With a few exceptions, that’s what New York’s fashion is like today.

It seems that Marc Jacobs, Rodarte sisters, Pierpaolo Piccioli from Valentino and Alessandro Michele from Gucci are the last people who still dream in fashion, in that ‘romantic’ way. But still, Pierpaolo does that solely in his couture (that’s commercially backed up by ready-to-wear). Alessandro is having his ‘hype’ period that might end sooner or later. With Rodarte, I will never understand how that brand sustains itself financially. Where’s Marc in all that? Maybe the beauty line will keep him in business, because his clothing becomes shockingly rare to spot in the stores. Whatever it is, I hope he won’t be exiting his brand anytime soon.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Identity. Gucci AW18

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 After reading Susannah Frankel’s massive feature on Alessandro Michele in the latest issue of Another, there’s no wonder why Gucci‘s creative director is… the way he is. His mother worked in film industry and was the 50s, Hollywood loving female; his father was a free-spirited, as Michele says, shaman. Such clash of identities had to result in a single mind, as wildly creative as of Alessandro. The autumn-winter 2018 collection is an overdrive of explosive surprises, that convey a message: we all have an identity, whether formed by our surroundings, culture or interests.

The venue looked like a cosmic surgery room, with an operation table standing in the middle. Was it a metaphor that Dr. Alessandro (and Gucci) are here to shape your, who knows, expression? If yes, then it’s quite a struggle to decide which aspect of the collection should we start with. Maybe the models, who carried their heads (!), snakes and baby dragons? Make-up – if you still can call it that shallow way – that consisted of Frida Kahlo uni-brows and cyclop eyes? Or even Pussy Riot balaclavas, manga-inspired prints and velvet burqas? Still, the collection was not only true to Alessandro’s extremely eclectic style, but his Gucci-fiyed reality. Gucci logo is everywhere, from the silk scarf tops to the buttons a tweed jacket. Welcome to the Gucci ‘pluriverse’, where there’s no place for trends, conformity or lethal routine.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Revive Pierre Cardin, Please.

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Raquel Welch and Pierre Cardin photographed by Terry O’Neill.

I wish the house of Pierre Cardin went through a revival in a Courreges / Loewe kind of way. The heritage of futurist fashion left by Cardin would easily become a canvas for one of those ‘new league’ designers from Paris. Simon Porte Jacquemus, a match made in heaven if you ask me. His love for everything French and naïve would be unexpectedly translated into Pierre Cardin language. Glenn Martens of Y/Project – I can already see how this guy messes around with Pierre’s voluminous coats and geometric dresses, styling them with Chinese thrift shop heels and faux pearls. Oh, and the entire rebranding matter! Maybe M/M Paris can take this fantasy job? They are genius in everything they do. I hope that one day, Pierre Cardin will find a dreaming investor, who will spend a few hundred thousands to make this brand something more than just cheesy men’s blazers sold in declining shopping malls. Literally, this is what Cardin is today, unfortunately. And that’s a pity.

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A Rose Without Thorns

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Tim Walker and Cate Blanchett take us to a fantasy dream of the Little Prince. Mesmerising, dramatic and expressive. W Magazine has managed to top the list of  2015’s most beautiful editorials.

Publication: W Magazine December 2015  
Model: Cate Blanchett
 Photographer: Tim Walker
 Fashion Editor: Jacob K

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Real Fantasies

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“Fairies? At Prada? Why, yes: When Miuccia is fed up with being perverse in the anarchic-fierce way, she’ll change tack yet again and go against the grain by being so sweetly unchallenging you (almost) can’t recognize her. So Prada for Spring went late sixties, early seventies, Art Nouveau-ish—tripping off into the kind of tendrilly doodles girls used to scrawl on their bedroom walls after studying their hippie-romantic rock album covers.” Nowadays, the fashion world is all buzzy about seasonless clothes that will forever be trendy. But, I think it’s impossible because fashion is art and art always tends to change it sides. After opening the Dover Street Market in New York, Rei Kawabuko (the designer of Comme des Garcons) is in strong relationship with Miuccia Prada. Creating lovely capsule collections made of unused archive Prada fabrics, the designers already created two collections- the one that was sold for AW13, and the second for SS14. The second one is all about SS 2008, when Miuccia took us to a fairy-tale full of fairies and elfs. I remember how hot it was in the stores when everybody stood in queue for a fairy bag! Thanks to that new flashback that DSM did with Prada, women which bought anything from this season may again wear their pieces, without thinking that they are so, so last season. As you see, fashion is very much like art- you never know, when it suddenly comes back… see the new capsule collection just like Lena’s archival pieces from SS08 (the skirt and the shoes are not it. We still seek the fairy themed dress in her wardrobe!).

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