Men’s – Confusing Odyssey. JW Anderson SS17

June 13, 2016June 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

For boys, Jonathan Anderson gets extra peculiar, season-to-season. Maybe it’s because he feels that menswear is his in designer roots? Let’s not forget that J.W. Anderson was initially a men’s fashion label. Spring-summer 2017 collection feels like one of Anderson’s first outings – no commercial pressure (at first sight), just pure creativity. The latest collection is like a space odyssey, welcoming the unknown. Over-sized tunics, astronaut pantalons – is it the character of Little Prince, but a bit older? He still wears his crown, according to the designer. Also, this eccentric type of guy, Saint‐Exupéry’s fictional creation-like, seems to have a weak point for Jonathan’s signature “Pierce” bags, and colour spectrum coats, which look quite psychedelic when styled with high, lace-up boots. If this level of outer-space fashion isn’t reaching its peak, then take a look at the orange sunglasses. Then, there are the prints with frogs and Egyptian god of afterlife, Anubis. Luc Besson’s apocalyptic sci-fi thriller? Hacker style? I don’t have a clue what’s the message. Was that the aim? Anderson leaves me lost for words, and quite confused. But one thing’s sure – an upcoming collaboration between Anderson and musician ASAP Rocky is on its way. Elusively tagged as JWA X AWGE.

Freud’s Office. Loewe AW16

March 7, 2016March 7, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“You are completely relaxed, completely at ease . . . .”

Jonathan Anderson‘s brilliant collection for Loewe felt like a Sigmund Freud’s psychotherapy, which entered your mind. The waiting-room beige shade of Maison de l’UNESCO and the designer chairs from mid-20th century made all the guests relaxed, and feel calmer, even though the Paris Fashion Week’s stir and fuss continues. And, it was a great occasion to see Anderson’s latest vision for the brand, with his artisan touches, eclectic accessories and fabulous bags, which are Loewe’s signature. The clientele of the Spanish label, who supposedly is a base of middle-aged women with an interest in collecting contemporary art and rare furniture, will surely fall in love with these arty mesh skirts and dark tan leathers. “Curated” is as important in this collection, as in the live of these women. The resin cat necklaces came out of the blue, giving an edgy twist to the collection. The minimal corsets were covered with pleats of gold, just like the Arizona totes. Some of the handbags were worn in doubles, while other were made from fringed, oriental textiles. In comparison to last season’s overload of plastic pants and senseless silhouettes, this time Anderson delivered a strong collection, keeping Loewe on the season’s “highlight” list.

I Love Fashion. JW Anderson AW16

February 21, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

The autumn-winter 2016 collection delivered by J.W. Anderson is a playful continuation of the designer’s spring collection and pre-fall look-book – and it proves that Jonathan Anderson wants to have fun with fashion, too. “I love fashion! It should be fashion” is what he declared backstage of his London fashion show, perfectly stating the nature of the new season – there was something about the 60’s, looking at the mini-skirts with curvy, leather cut-outs and multi-colour ruffles. There was a sense of softness in these fluffy “clouds”, while the fur hoodies were like a Anderson-revisited nod to hip-hop music. Yet, the chain mail-like studs had you wondering about the much more harsh, punk side of the designer, which we’ve experienced in his last menswear outing. The collection didn’t have a one, straight line of references or inspirations, however it had a humorous, Pierre Cardin-ish outer space character. To conclude, these voluminous, edgy clothes made it clear – Jonathan is taking us to his playground.

Men’s – Future Vamps. JW Anderson AW16

January 11, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson takes his brand, and his creative vision, to a totally undiscovered and widely misunderstood field. You can love it, hate it, ignore it or praise it – but still, J.W. Anderson is the most absorbing brand coming from London. The city buzzed about the menswear show for autumn-winter 2016 season a long time before the show-day – it was reported that the brand will live-stream the fashion show on a dating-app, Grindr, presenting the show within a few seconds to about seven million people. Just like that. Without much effort.

Maybe the PR of Anderson are genius – but surely, the brand knows how to excite in the media sphere. However, streaming the collection on a dating app is not such a strange idea. The codes of the brand are focused on “future”, and “perversity” – somehow, a dating app is all about sex and modern way of life, right? And the collection for men definitely didn’t lack any of those. The looks, which fused the everyday basics, like a chunky cardigan or a simple, British mackintosh coat, had something modernistic about them – new, over-sized silhouettes, high-tech fabrics (take a look at this transparent, organza-like piece, printed with a dog called Bonzo from the 20s) and the seriously ugly planet-Zenon trainers with pastel-pink toe. But still, these techno vamps had something to do with a perverse, clubbing manner – the models’ hair, which was held back, looked dirty from a hard night out. Some wore perspex chokers, modestly ornamented with silver studs – and some had those cheesy hoop ball earrings on. To make even more extraordinary, one look was focused on a camel coat, worn over a naked body, and a pair of, again, Zenon shoes.

But looking back at the animals in the collection – everybody noticed the turquoise snails, which were lazily stuck to a rabbit-fur jacket and a white pea-coat. Was Jonathan trying to convey a message? SLOW DOWN? The frustration of fashion’s speed, which made Alber and Raf say “bye” to Lanvin and Dior, is a struggle for most of young designers, as they need to be creative for 24/7, do their best to afford pre-collections and have a perfect, on-time stock for the retailers. Or maybe, Anderson ironically said “catch me if you can” to all the others in the industry? This guy is a real propeller of ideas, so why not show it off in the most bright and bold aspect of the collection?

Modular. JW Anderson Pre-Fall’16

December 20, 2015December 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson never fails to deliver a provoking and literally mind-blowing collection for his own, eponymous label. For pre-fall 2016, the J.W. Anderson woman is continuing her wardrobe musings from the summer outing – the remarkable, leg-of-mutton sleeves and bra-like crop-tops blurred with the stereotypical appeal of fish-net tights. “Modular” is what he called his lookbook, meaning the way the silhouettes overlap each other and the Edwardian-like sleeves which are a minimal nod to the past. However, “modular” might also mean the interesting way Jonathan mixes different textures and elements – strips of fur are combined with cloud-like pillows, creating a very sculptural jacket. Just to make it even more extraordinary, take a note of the shoes – the nylon covered, 90’s studded boots make this collection even more… unexpected. And surely one-of-a-kind!