Her World. Céline Pre-Fall 2017


To be honest, it’s hard to flip from Gucci’s resort 2018 Italian glamo-mania to Céline‘s world of minimal silhouettes and modern woman-dressing. But I feel much more comfortable in case of the latter – in Phoebe Philo‘s world. For her pre-fall 2017 collection (presented as usual, just before the clothes hit the stores), the brand’s creative director does what she does best. Empowering shirts and all-day dresses; incredible, probably the  most perfectly tailored coats in fur and leather; pleated midi-skirts with feminine, leg-exposing cuts. Thick, plaid shirt appeared to be the most unexpected piece in the entire collection – somehow, though checks became forgotten, they will surely comeback for autumn in not so average, laid-back version. Although the colour palette is quite earthy, Philo splashed some colour through geometric patterns on the knits and blouson. It all looks like made in heaven. In Céline heaven!

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Routine Absurds. Balenciaga Pre-Fall’17


Demna Gvasalia had spandex boots on his Balenciaga runway. He did gargantuan, big bazaar bags. The Georgian designer has even proved us that corporate dressing is not just for Angela Merkel and her wardrobe. With his every hit (and they get edgier and edgier with every season), the clothes you would rather burn than call ‘fashion’ become somewhat sudden objects of desire. Pre-fall 2017 collection is the best prove for that, as all of Gvasalia’s biggest moments at the house are refreshed and reminded. And they look fire. Every single piece. Even a scarf tied under the chin (we live in 2017, so it’s a ‘babushka hood’…) in intense fuchsia looks brilliant. A nod to Gvasalia’s Soviet origins? Probably. But feels so contemporary, even if you know it’s NOT.

Daily routine has its trashy, cringey, cheesy, but beautiful absurds. Just some food for brain.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki; styling by Lotta Volkova; photography by Harley Weir.

Modesty. The Row Pre-Fall’17


Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen presented one of the most refined collections for autumn-winter 2017, reaching the feeling of Calvin Klein’s early minimalism and Helmut Lang’s authentically raw, New York coolness. For pre-fall 2017, the twins continue their exploration of austerity and softness, offering a selection of The Row classics. The 90s rough modesty is perceivanble thanks to Zoë Ghertner’s images of Erin O’Connor, who poses in thick grey coats, black turtlenecks and delightful slim maxi-dresses. As soon as colder days strike, those timeless pieces will be there to serve.

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Warm Up. Pringle of Scotland Pre-Fall’17


Fran Stringer became the creative director of Pringle of Scotland – the Scottish, 200-years old knitwear house – about a year ago. Looking at the brand’s past collections, and at Stringer’s outings, one thing is quite clear at the very first glance. Pringle of Scotland is the go-to label for anything that’s knitted, in a cool way. Fusing the brand’s archival codes and her own ‘loose’ aesthetic, Fran delivered a brilliant pre-fall collection filled with printed cashmere ponchos, over-sized The Fair Isle sweaters and argyle-patterned cardigans. While it’s freezing outside, you just wish to be covered up with all those absolutely non-itchy wool pieces.


So Fetch, Fake & Fine. Gucci Pre-Fall’17


Observing Alessandro Michele‘s creative narration at Gucci is absorbing, even if you know you would never ever dress like that. Or maybe… you would? Looking like a charming, yet edgy granny entire week is hard – but for one day, a bunny-embroidered cardigan, layers of floral brooches and a patchworked midi-skirt sound quite mind-blowing on the background of your daily-routine wardrobe, even if they are far from the term ‘new’. 

Alessandro’s pre-fall 2017, forgetting the beautiful chaos, tells one clear thing: brands like Gucci, to stay on ground in 2016 (and 2017, which is ahead of us), should recycle. And I’m not speaking about ecology right now. Keeping the consistency of collections; forgetting others and going your own aesthetically path; enriching every single detail, from branding to logi size on a shoe’s buckle. Similar eveningdress silhouettes, but in new colours, are on demand, and all the time in stock. Last season’s floral prints and this season’s Donald Duck become unexpected friends on an adorable blazer. Instead of creating a new ‘it-bag’, why not revive an oldie from the archives? Just like the shoes (extra-dramatic this season, but that’s not a surprise anytime with Michele). Working with such scheme is quite likely a guaranteed success, and Gucci’s monthly turnovers are the best prove for that. But will this take on nostalgia and chic kitsch get boring at some point? Becoming bored is a human’s nature, sorry.

Ignoring reason – this so fetch look-book was shot in Rome’s two historical locations. First is the Antica Libreria Cascianelli, an old bookstore specializing in art history. The second is the Antica Spezieria di Santa Maria della Scala, a 16th-century apothecary. Mind-blowing. And whatever I’ve written in the paragraph above – Alessandro Michele keeps on surprising and the look so fake tights with GG logo are really the thing.