To be honest, it’s hard to flip from Gucci’s resort 2018 Italian glamo-mania to Céline‘s world of minimal silhouettes and modern woman-dressing. But I feel much more comfortable in case of the latter – in Phoebe Philo‘s world. For her pre-fall 2017 collection (presented as usual, just before the clothes hit the stores), the brand’s creative director does what she does best. Empowering shirts and all-day dresses; incredible, probably the most perfectly tailored coats in fur and leather; pleated midi-skirts with feminine, leg-exposing cuts. Thick, plaid shirt appeared to be the most unexpected piece in the entire collection – somehow, though checks became forgotten, they will surely comeback for autumn in not so average, laid-back version. Although the colour palette is quite earthy, Philo splashed some colour through geometric patterns on the knits and blouson. It all looks like made in heaven. In Céline heaven!
Demna Gvasalia had spandex boots on his Balenciaga runway. He did gargantuan, big bazaar bags. The Georgian designer has even proved us that corporate dressing is not just for Angela Merkel and her wardrobe. With his every hit (and they get edgier and edgier with every season), the clothes you would rather burn than call ‘fashion’ become somewhat sudden objects of desire. Pre-fall 2017 collection is the best prove for that, as all of Gvasalia’s biggest moments at the house are refreshed and reminded. And they look fire. Every single piece. Even a scarf tied under the chin (we live in 2017, so it’s a ‘babushka hood’…) in intense fuchsia looks brilliant. A nod to Gvasalia’s Soviet origins? Probably. But feels so contemporary, even if you know it’s NOT.
Daily routine has its trashy, cringey, cheesy, but beautiful absurds. Just some food for brain.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki; styling by Lotta Volkova; photography by Harley Weir.
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen presented one of the most refined collections for autumn-winter 2017, reaching the feeling of Calvin Klein’s early minimalism and Helmut Lang’s authentically raw, New York coolness. For pre-fall 2017, the twins continue their exploration of austerity and softness, offering a selection of The Row classics. The 90s rough modesty is perceivanble thanks to Zoë Ghertner’s images of Erin O’Connor, who poses in thick grey coats, black turtlenecks and delightful slim maxi-dresses. As soon as colder days strike, those timeless pieces will be there to serve.
Fran Stringer became the creative director of Pringle of Scotland – the Scottish, 200-years old knitwear house – about a year ago. Looking at the brand’s past collections, and at Stringer’s outings, one thing is quite clear at the very first glance. Pringle of Scotland is the go-to label for anything that’s knitted, in a cool way. Fusing the brand’s archival codes and her own ‘loose’ aesthetic, Fran delivered a brilliant pre-fall collection filled with printed cashmere ponchos, over-sized The Fair Isle sweaters and argyle-patterned cardigans. While it’s freezing outside, you just wish to be covered up with all those absolutely non-itchy wool pieces.