Soigné. Louis Vuitton SS17

October 12, 2016October 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nicolas Ghesquiere chose to show his spring-summer 2017 collection for Louis Vuitton not at the usual location (Fondation Louis Vuitton), but in the brand’s future boutique. Place Vendome store is opening in 2017, but the decision to stage the collection in this raw, yet beautiful space, was a prove that even though Louis Vuitton might go to far-fetched destinations (like Palm Springs or Rio), its spirit stays in Paris.

When Ghesquiere worked at Balenciaga, his connection to the city was reflected in flirty dresses, unconventional elegance and intriguing layers – in other words, his aesthetic was the soigné embodiment of ‘Parisian chic’ myth. Throughout his Louis Vuitton tenure, Nicolas went global, slightly forgetting about his old, good affair with the city of love. However, the newest collection is just it: an elevated wardrobe of timeless pieces with the right dose of French borgeois. Drenched-in-gold jewellery; masculine blazers; Parisian model “off-duty” look feauturing grunge (or not so, with all those embroideries) t-shirts. How good can it be?

The 80’s are continously embraced by editors and stylists of such local magazines as Vogue Paris or Self Service. While the creative director is friends with them, the mood of this decade has been present in every single detail, from the ‘night-out’ make-up to crystal-embellished slit gowns. For a moment I thought that this is what Lanvin should look like now with Bouchra Jarrar – but then, you can perceive Ghesquiere’s hand in those tailored pants and desirable biker jackets. Magnifique!

Pierpaolo’s Delights. Valentino SS17

October 11, 2016October 11, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

After Maria Grazia Chiuri’s departure to Dior, Pierpaolo Piccioli is solo at Valentino. One thing’s sure – it’s not the same Valentino we used to know during the couple’s creative co-operation. With Chiuri, Valentino was darker, and heavier in embroidery; seeing Piccioli’s first “all by myself” collection embeds a lighter vision of the brand. Although spring-summer 2017’s mood-board is covered with Hieronymus Bosch artworks and Reneissance-era obsessions, Pierpaolo’s woman is thinking about grunge and 70s West-London love affair. To prove the latter, the creative director collaborated on prints with one-and-only Zandra Rhodes (whose influence was coined by Luella Bartley of Hillier Bartley this season, too). The effect? I can’t remind myself a Valentino show, which was filled with so much joy. Just look at those jackets! Of course, old clients will find a range of beautifully embellished dresses and skirts. But Pierpaolo also introduced a kind of à la Céline softness to the brand, which will surely appeal to the young. I nearly forgot about the colour palette – from killer fuchsia-pink to refreshing lime-green, there are many reasons to fall in love with the (not so) new Valentino.

Clothes for Life. Céline SS17

October 10, 2016October 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Phoebe Philo started out at Céline as a designer, who adored ultimate minimalism. During her pre- and post-pregnancy period, Céline welcomed bold colours and fun, toy-like jewellery. Spring-summer 2017, and the last few collections, seem to open another chapter of the creative director’s vision at the brand. There isn’t one word to describe it – it’s rather about understanding Phoebe’s “woman for women” world, which is far from trends, but always a step further from the others.

Last season was an investigation of “invisible” clothing: layers of satin pleats and leather coats were perfect gears for everyday life, drenched in new meaning of luxury and unprecedented styling. This season explores woman’s wardrobe in an even quicker way, with Yves Klein-like painted corsets, XXL totes and drifty dresses. However, Phoebe understands how to build a wardrobe for real usage – it’s not that arty and edgy in the end.

The meaning behind Céline’s latest outing has been already conveyed in the soundtrack of noisy city traffic, and joyous children laugh. Loosely fit pastel top, indigo skirt and white sneakers – is there a better and more comfortable outfit for a day filled with errands, like picking your kids from school? Or rushing to the office? The runway wasn’t a usual aisle, squeezed by editors and buyers. Models walked in random directions, sometimes in little groups, presenting a range of different personalities. A Céline woman isn’t only one type of women: Philo proves that, sending out a range of various clothes on diverse in age and skin colour models.

From masculine coats to intriguing dresses, nothing seems to look pointless here. Even though A LOT happens in this specific collection. For example, the pants were (probably) worn over another, lighter pair. Doesn’t it look fantastic? That’s a styling trick to catch the next spring. Seductive slits and cut-outs are quite new to Céline, but don’t worry – Philo’s skills in making her gowns sexy aren’t moving towards Balmain. She’s just too intelligent for that. Her venture into sex-appeal is non-conformist and elusive, resulting in a dress with faux-corset, and a pair of sandals. Man-repelling? Depends on the guy. Speaking of the shoes, there were a lot of great heels and boots in bold red or autumnal beige. The colours were mixed up, because “why should our shoes always match?” I’m a sucker for socks, and seeing Phoebe play with them was pure pleasure. Just like analysing the entire collection.

Stretchy Desires. Balenciaga SS17

October 9, 2016October 9, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Honestly, Balenciaga‘s spring-summer 2017 collection has been the most anticipated show of the entire Paris Fashion Week. First, it’s the second collection designed by Demna Gvasalia, the guy you already know from Vetements. Second, every editor was dying to see what direction will Demna take for the house. The debut collection ranked up high with its puffa jackets and appealing corporate dress-code, but you need the second try to understand a creative director’s vision.

Spoiler: the newest collection confirms that Gvasalia was created for his job at Balenciaga.

When Cristobal Balenciaga founded his house, the brand was focused on haute couture. In the most unobvious ways, Demna revives Balenciaga’s couture elements since his first season, reinterpreting the brand’s archives and writing a new chapter. For spring, the Georgian designer explores the intimate relationship between couture and fetishism – two unlikely things that in fact are closely related to each other. Obsessive interest in achieving a result of absolute beauty, which goes in pair with wearing couture, is dangerously connected to a nearly sexual pleasure. When Cristobal’s maison was at its peak, a synthetic, stretchy fabric appeared in 1958 – spandex. Of course, Balenciaga’s aesthetic didn’t match with such nonchalance of spandex at those times. But in 2016, Demna feels a strong connection between ‘kinkiness’ of spandex, and haute couture’s endless desire of looking perfect.

Just like couture, spandex isn’t easy. But this didn’t stop Demna and his studio to send out a line of models wearing spandex in the brightest colours and the most eye-catchy, floral prints. The stilettos (which transformed into leggings-like pants) were jaw-dropping. He kept them in purple, orange, pink and even white in order to nail it to the fullest. The semi-shoes, semi-pants looked eerily sexy and glamorous, to a surprise. Gvasalia’s thing for fetish didn’t end here: latex capes, extremely sleek silhouettes and patent leather were the show’s highlights, too.

Gvasalia’s troubled youth in Georgia affected his future mind. When he was young, he was starving for the new; now, he can easily convey those childhood cravings into a multifaceted collection for a very grown-up house. Striped market totes resembled the bags from bazaars, which stored fake Adidas and Levis, so well-remembered to the generation of the post-Iron Curtain. Ornamental brooches made me think of cheesy souvenirs which are easily available in the nearest Euro-shop. The nails with zircons had a lot to do with the 2000s Paris Hilton over-the-top style. And then, the music that still hides in the depths of your grandpa’s Nokia: Whitney Houston’s “I Will Always Love You” and Chris Isaak’s “Wicked Game“. The final effect? Demna left the guests panting and drooling over his jackets with shoulder pads, granny dresses and trench-parkas. Buying all of that.

West London Love. Hillier Bartley SS17

October 9, 2016October 9, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Surprisingly, Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier decided to reveal their newest collection during the schedule time of Paris Fashion Week, temporarily leaving behind the idea of see it now, buy it now they did in previous seasons. So, what’s Hillier Bartley like for spring-summer 2017? The designers’ eternal love for 70s West London bohemia is oozing in every single piece of this look-book. Discussing their inspirations, Luella named everyone from Zandra Rhodes to David Hockney, who were the quintessence of colour, partying and fashion back in the times. It’s absorbing to see how these two female designers evolve during their design process, and succeed in keeping it true to their style. Hillier Bartley classics? Best expressed in seasonless kimono jackets, high-waisted pants and fringed scarves.

If other designers focused so much on consistency, their collections would instantly become monotonous. At Hillier Bartley, consistency is a base for having true, fashion fun. For spring, we’ve got Savile Row-inspired tailoring, all covered in multi-colour ostrich feathers; those thick knit sweaters (a continuation of autumn-winter 2016) became even softer with fluffy, purple fur sleeves; loosely fit, pink shirt was a nod to David Bowie’s style. Hillier Bartley isn’t about styling, though – if you separate the clothes from the looks, they appear to be (slightly eclectic) essentials of your on-the-go, everyday gear.

Also, take a look at Katie’s accessories (this time, accompanied by Manolo Blahnik’s different-colour suede pumps) in the season’s bold fuchsia and orange accents. From illustrated clutches with tassel charms to paperclip earrings and signature bunny-bags, Hillier Bartley wardrobe welcomes brilliant, new additions.