Phoebe Philo started out at Céline as a designer, who adored ultimate minimalism. During her pre- and post-pregnancy period, Céline welcomed bold colours and fun, toy-like jewellery. Spring-summer 2017, and the last few collections, seem to open another chapter of the creative director’s vision at the brand. There isn’t one word to describe it – it’s rather about understanding Phoebe’s “woman for women” world, which is far from trends, but always a step further from the others.
Last season was an investigation of “invisible” clothing: layers of satin pleats and leather coats were perfect gears for everyday life, drenched in new meaning of luxury and unprecedented styling. This season explores woman’s wardrobe in an even quicker way, with Yves Klein-like painted corsets, XXL totes and drifty dresses. However, Phoebe understands how to build a wardrobe for real usage – it’s not that arty and edgy in the end.
The meaning behind Céline’s latest outing has been already conveyed in the soundtrack of noisy city traffic, and joyous children laugh. Loosely fit pastel top, indigo skirt and white sneakers – is there a better and more comfortable outfit for a day filled with errands, like picking your kids from school? Or rushing to the office? The runway wasn’t a usual aisle, squeezed by editors and buyers. Models walked in random directions, sometimes in little groups, presenting a range of different personalities. A Céline woman isn’t only one type of women: Philo proves that, sending out a range of various clothes on diverse in age and skin colour models.
From masculine coats to intriguing dresses, nothing seems to look pointless here. Even though A LOT happens in this specific collection. For example, the pants were (probably) worn over another, lighter pair. Doesn’t it look fantastic? That’s a styling trick to catch the next spring. Seductive slits and cut-outs are quite new to Céline, but don’t worry – Philo’s skills in making her gowns sexy aren’t moving towards Balmain. She’s just too intelligent for that. Her venture into sex-appeal is non-conformist and elusive, resulting in a dress with faux-corset, and a pair of sandals. Man-repelling? Depends on the guy. Speaking of the shoes, there were a lot of great heels and boots in bold red or autumnal beige. The colours were mixed up, because “why should our shoes always match?” I’m a sucker for socks, and seeing Phoebe play with them was pure pleasure. Just like analysing the entire collection.