Chinatown Mules. Y/Project SS17

September 29, 2016September 29, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Amid the new league of young, fashion talents based in Paris, there’s Jacquemus, Koché, Courrèges boys, and of course Vetements collective. Another one in the hood is Glenn Martens, who is the designer behind Y/Project. While other re-invent heritage, French brands or mess around with underground rave culture, Glenn is somewhere in between reviving Marie Antoinette dresses and developing a 21st century gear for cool women (and men). For spring/summer 2017, the designer nails denim pants, which are very much into elongated silhouettes. Velvet body-con piece or a pony-hair top subvert the term “elegance”, just like unconventional evening wear which focuses on exaggerated, sleeveless parachute dresses. The models wore layers of pearl necklaces, ironically contrasting with the so-in-demand street-wise hoodies. Following the anti-fashion maxim, the uglier the better, Glenn sent out a line of the most trashy mules and stilettos you have ever seen. “They’re from Chinatown,” he said backstage, without an attempt to conceal this fact. I doubt a modern-day princess would immerse herself in those cumbersome clothes – but a Parisian skate-girl, for sure.

La Canopée. Koché SS17

September 28, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Seeing Lindsey Wixson walk down the crowdy alley in Parisian La Canopée isn’t a usual, everyday sight. And it’s even stranger, when you wonder whether it’s really her, or an interestingly dressed passer-by. Christelle Kocher, the designer behind Koché, is obsessed with elevating street wear, and she’s the only designer who literally takes her clothes to the streets. Last season, she invited the fashion crowd to Passage du Prado, a home of cheap phone stores and cheesy hair-dressers; yesterday, her spring-summer 2017 was seen by the anyone who was running their errands in this gigantic, commercial passage.

Kocher’s latest outing was filled with her quite well recognisable signatures. She works at Maison Lemarié, a couture atelier specialising in feathers, so that’s why her off-the-street (or not) parkas and sweatshirts were all about excessive layers of ostrich plume. Velour sweatpants with a multi-coloured, zipped track jackets (my middle-school P.E. memories go posh) – a thing for dressing in anti-fashion way is intense here, too. Adwoa Aboah sported a not-your-average-cross-fit bra-top, while meticulously embroidered slip-dresses never looked so… effortless. I know this sounds cliché, but admit – Koché is a brand, which fuses the idea of “on-the-go” with minute attention to detail, close to haute couture level. The styling of the show felt absolutely spontaneous, and both the street-cast, and professional agency models seemed to enjoy the nature of this show. First days of Paris Fashion Week are always my favourite – it’s the moment, when niche, French designers present their intriguing, not-business-wise attitude to style.

Female Nomad. No21 SS17

September 23, 2016September 23, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Dell’AcQua isn’t resigning from his signature touches this season, like the ethernally chic macramé lace skirts or feather-trimmed tops. Simultaneously, he’s ready for introducing new attitude to his label: No21 has never been so athleisure-wise as it’s now for spring-summer 2017. Breaking down the first looks, it’s easy to spot the designer’s obsession with modernistic mesh, as it appeared everywhere, from the hems on loose dresses to sporty t-shirts. Hoodies are wherever you turn this season, but Dell’AcQua didn’t feel discouraged with that fact. His version, in lace and with a pastel-green zip, is über-cool. But it’s not only about the current street-wise mood at No21. Multi-printed, patchwork skirts and dresses suggested the look of a modern-day nomad who’s prepared for every day’s adventures. Care-free and optimistic, she wears her awakening tassels, opulent embellishments and gypsy-esque florals with grace. Also, I loved the way how Alessandro played with footwear: his kitten-heels were taped with fluorescent bows and, as usual in case of Dell’AcQua, were styled with beige socks. Pastel-pink loving No21 girl for spring dramatically differs from the sharp, grunge roxette we’ve seen for autumn. Oh, and the sunglasses line was a pretty new addition, too! Made in collaboration with the one and only, Linda Farrow.

After Party. Alexander Wang SS17

September 13, 2016September 13, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Get over it – Alexander Wang isn’t a guy who does serious fashion. I completely understood that last season, when he sent a line of weed-printed dresses and “Strict” logo beanies. Don’t fight it. Wang’s newest collection is youth, and one thing is sure: the future success of spring-summer 2017 is based on the young customers.

Basically, it’s all about sportswear and streetwear (as usual), and that’s highlighted by the fact the event launched a collaboration with Adidas (this had to happen). The main line was a ‘remix’ of the designer’s previous collections – buckled sandals from SS16, pyjama shirts à la SS14 – and it mainly focused on unlikely, messy pairings. A fur bath-robe, neon-purple bra and board shorts. ‘Groundbreaking’. Of course, there was a wide range of lux hoodies, a bunch of sultry, Cali dresses and lots of neon-and-lace combos. The last is a rip off Christopher Kane’s cult SS11, by the way. Concluding – you can be a slave to Alexander’s “fashion”, or not join the club. But then, you won’t be invited to the after show party…

Men’s – Milanese Guys

February 5, 2016January 4, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Photo I took on Via Manzoni in Milan last week.

When women desperately seek a way to look like a Parisian girl, who masters the messy chic of Caroline de Maigret or does the sexy au naturelle look a la Jeanne Damas, then men do their best to be like a Milanese guy. A man from Milan is not obsessed with Versace and Dolce as you might think – the contemporary one (who is usually in his 30s, 40s…) cares about the statement: a unique, fancy detail, which seems to be nearly invisible. Also, this guy rides his Vespa with grace, showing off his perfectly matched socks which are exposed by the cropped pants. Being a Milanese guy is hard – but possible, if you know his three, quite effortless yet so, so dandy tips.

Photo via The Sartorialist

Simone Marchetti is the most stylish guy in the town, and also the best guide if talking of Milan’s tourist-free restaurants on Instagram. He can pull off a chiffon, pastel pink Gucci blouse from Alessandro Michele’s autumn-winter 2015 collection, and still keep a cool, masculine effect (even if the wool sweater is pink, too). Matching his gentle style with classical Levi’s denim pants and furry mocassins, the fashion editor at La Repubblica always nails it, when wearing a piece from his favourite Italian designer or something much more casual.

Photo via A Love is Blind

Stefano Pilati is the designer who kept Saint Laurent extremely chic before Hedi Slimane’s catastrophy; also, he left Zegna just few days ago, in order to “focus on personal projects”. His collections at Zegna envisioned his Milanese style – over-sized, woollen pants and coats are his signatures – and when writing “over-sized”, I mean Stefano’s elegant play with silhouettes. Moreover, Pilati wears the symbol of every well-dressed Milan-raised man from Milan – the neck scarf, non-chalantly tied aorund the neck. The outfit above is a total favourite of mine.

Photo via The Sartorialist

Alessandro Squarzi is a Milan-based fashion entrepreneur and street-style regular, who has a carefree approach to dressing. Squarzi is a fan of Italian’s finest Neapolitan tailoring – but at the same time, he loves the comfort of Converse trainers and t-shirts. In the look above, he looks more than great in an edgy, checked blazer and vintage boots.