Berlin is so, so good. You meet Stefano Pilati on the street. The most stylish man ever. From the refined and sublimely elegant creative direction at (Yves) Saint Laurent to his gender-blurring Random Identities brand, I’ve been following Pilati and his sense of aesthetic for years. Meeting him was a dream – and dreams come true!
Vetements‘ no-show spring-summer 2018 collection was a sensation in its own nature. Instead of a regular fashion show with models (wait – Vetements has never done a ‘regular’ fashion show, if you take a moment to look back at their shocking venue choices…), the designer collective lead by Demna Gvasalia exhibited over 50, real-size photographs in a Parisian warehouse. Photographed and styled surprisingly by Demna himself (no Pierre Ange Carlotti and Lotta Volkova this season…), these were the images of real real people in Zürich. The Swiss capital is the new location of Vetements’ headquarters, so deciding to keep it ‘local’ makes sense. The look-book presents everyone, from elderly women and families to bankers and goth teenagers, striking poses in new-season Vetements.
But is the new-season Vetements really new? If you’ve noticed looks that seem to be a déjà vu from the brand’s previous seasons – like over-sized checked shirts, deconstructed fur coats or a voluminous trench coat – then don’t be surprised. For this season, Gvasalia preferred to contemplate and reconsider, rather than create something absolutely fresh. Some of the pieces were recut and improved from the technical side, while others, like the Vetements signature tea-dress or cult Reebok trainers, went through small alternations (emoji prints, polka dots, surely to become next season’s hits). From one side, this concept is might be disturbing. Will Vetements stop developing creatively? Well, I doubt it. From the other side, that’s quite relaxing, as the brand suggests buyers and other labels, that its a non-sense to produce two (or more) totally different collections a year. Cherish the classics! Don’t rush for the new pair of shoes, if last year’s platform boots or cigarette-lighter heels will stay in the shops for good. Slowing the pace is right, from time-to-time.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Although emerging designers prefer to stay away from pre-collections, Kristelle Kocher took the ambitious path. Ladies and Gentlemen, here’s the first ever resort collection coming from the Paris-based Koché. We’ve all got used to the label’s remote show venues (like vast public spaces of the French capital or Folies Bergères) that helped Kristelle build and envision her label’s street identity. Kocher’s pre-collection proves that Koché has its design codes that continue to evolve. The idea of streetwear with haute human touch is here for good. But it’s not about your average hoodies, oh no. Expect intricately embellished, yet loose (track)suits; fleecy sweaters made of different gauge yarns; feminine feather inserts and boas clashed with athletic jackets. The look-book is filled with white, black and electric shades of blue and coral red – you can choose toned or daring, according to your mood.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: ‘Raindrops’ installation by Urs Fischer).
Paris. It’s a cliché to say that Paris is the ‘city of love’. But that’s true in some way, as it’s simply impossible not to fall in love with Paris. If Paris was a person, it would be an extremely multi-faceted, slightly arrogant, but elusive character. Not a friend – rather a great lover. I’ve visited Paris many, many times, but those few days I’ve spent during the last fashion week will stay in my mind for long. Spring is the moment, when Paris blooms. People on the streets are so beautiful. Coffee tastes better, while art exhibitions open on every corner. J’adore.
Click the images below to read the captions.
All photos by Edward Kanarecki.
Seeing Lindsey Wixson walk down the crowdy alley in Parisian La Canopée isn’t a usual, everyday sight. And it’s even stranger, when you wonder whether it’s really her, or an interestingly dressed passer-by. Christelle Kocher, the designer behind Koché, is obsessed with elevating street wear, and she’s the only designer who literally takes her clothes to the streets. For autumn-winter 2016, she invited the fashion crowd to Passage du Prado, a home of cheap phone stores and cheesy hair-dressers; her spring-summer 2017 was seen by anyone who was running their errands in this gigantic, commercial spot.
Kocher’s latest outing was filled with her quite well recognisable signatures. She works at Maison Lemarié, a couture atelier specialising in feathers, so that’s why her off-the-street (or not) parkas and sweatshirts were all about excessive layers of ostrich plume. Velour sweatpants with a multi-coloured, zipped track jackets (my middle-school P.E. memories go posh) – a thing for dressing in anti-fashion way is intense here, too. Adwoa Aboah sported a not-your-average-cross-fit bra-top, while meticulously embroidered slip-dresses never looked so… effortless. I know this sounds cliché, but admit – Koché is a brand, which fuses the idea of “on-the-go” with minute attention to detail, close to haute couture level. The styling of the show felt absolutely spontaneous, and both the street-cast, and professional agency models seemed to enjoy the nature of this show.
It seems that Koché appeared on the industry’s mind just this year – so be sure to have this brand on your radar in 2017.