Men’s – That Guy. Stella McCartney SS17

November 11, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I can’t remind myself the last time I have written anything about Stella McCartney on my blog – her women’s fashion doesn’t appeal to me that much lately – but her first menswear collection is just too good.

Men’s fashion at Stella McCartney? That’s quite unexpected, honestly. The look-book dropped yesterday, just a few days before first spring-summer 2017 clothes hit the stores. Without any fuss, any special announcements. A great surprise for men, who felt close to Stella’s aesthetic, but didn’t find their sizes on the racks. The clothes aren’t presented on typical models, but on a pack of street-casted guys and cool-creatives, which is totally different to McCartney’s main line, where we’ve got hot names and top models in advertising campaigns. If I had to choose from this collection, I’m sure I would catch every single piece – from those chunky knits to over-sized trench coats. These are contemporary essentials, I guess. Pajama look is so me; lovely knitted sweatpants and slouchy cardigan are on my list since right now. Stella, Stella. I’m hopelessly in love with your vision of men.

Rave with Chic. Balenciaga Resort’17

October 25, 2016October 25, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Here it is: Balenciaga resort 2017 collection. Logistically, the look-book has been released just few weeks before the actual clothes hit the stores – and it’s already a craving desire to see those pieces in real-life. It went public yesterday, causing my heart to skip a beat for a longer moment. So, what’s Demna Gvasalia up to for his first, fully designed pre-collection at the French maison? First thing’s first – the caps. Some might say that sending out a line of logo caps is a desperate move to become somewhat affordable, or at least relevant for a brand. But in case of Gvasalia, it’s different. His creative background at Vetements is based on underground, rave-like style. He doesn’t have to make himself look younger in the fashion industry. He loves going out with his friends on the weekends. And, I must confess – those BALENCIAGA caps work well with voluminous, striped caftans and maxi-dresses. There’s no philosophy behind, really.

The Georgian designer looks forward to the new season through smart continuity. He’s not a type of designer who flips prints and colours every season: over-sized, bazar totes are here since his first collection, just like the elevated corporate jacket. However, there are a few exciting additions, like the exaggerated flares, scuba-diving tops and beautifully ugly bermuda shorts. Gvasalia seems to understand the idea behind a pre-collection quite well – he’s aware that it’s the commercial part of his job, unlike the runway show. For some designers, who get too frustrated with all those pre-falls and resorts, it’s still a secret.

Raise The Glass. Maryam Nassir Zadeh SS17

October 16, 2016October 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

After a month of fashion, fashion and once again, fashion, the days after the last shows in Paris feel like the most idyllic moment for the fashion industry. Also, it’s the time to reflect on the season, and review much quieter, yet equally brilliant collections from off-the-radar designers. Maryam Nassir Zadeh‘s spring-summer 2017 was presented at the beginning of warm September in a West Village gallery, and it was rather a downtown brunch with friends (including Ana Kraš, Mari Giudicelli, Oroma Elewa and other MNZ girls) than a fashion show. Zadeh’s women sat at a table piled with fruits and Mediterranean ceramics, and later on started to smash the plates and vases on the floor. No, it wasn’t an art performance; metaphorically, the designer was raising a glass to the success of her brand, her boutique, and creative women, who surround her on daily basis.

The collection is a dream wardrobe for summer. Loosely fit silhouettes and on-the-go styling tricks; sensual, sheer skirts and leather bras; gorgeous denim skirts and lovely beige palette. Maryam is the designer who proudly represents eponymous New York style. It results in the designer’s origins, and maybe the city’s melting-pot culture. Or, it’s just about the idea of making affordable, yet high quality clothes for women in any age. The presentation also celebrated the brand’s debut bag. It’s a hand-woven tote in mint-green. One thing is guaranteed – it will sell fast, in this and any other colour.

Timeless. The Row Resort’17

October 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’re no other American brand like The Row. The New York-based label is far from ‘contemporary’ or ‘casual’. It’s a luxurious of reflection of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen‘s aesthetic, which rather targets mature, intelligent individuals, rather than Insta-models. When the designers started The Row (named after London’s Savile Row, not by coincidence), the sisters didn’t look to any brand for inspiration. It’s has always been about quality and fit for them. The Row is a pretty young brand, though – but thanks to its philosophy and minute attention to detail in anything, it quickly appeared in the league of such minimal-luxury brands like Céline, Lemaire, or even Hermès.

No wonder why – just have a glance at The Row’s resort 2017 collection, and you will understand why the label has become fashion industry’s obsession. The look-book of just 13 images features (un)usual models: nearly 50-year-old Frederique Van Der Wal, iconic Audra Avizienis, intriquing Olga Sherer and a newcomer, Jada Joyce. Those four women represent different ages, and that’s the silent message behind the collection. The coats and other outerwear pieces are timeless, just like black cashmere turtlenecks or fur-lined suede loafers. Sensual lingerie isn’t an intepretation of the slip-dress trend, but a new addition to the brand’s range. Impossible not to love it.

Posh Pool-Side Party. Miu Miu SS17

October 13, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s not that hard to distinguish a Miu Miu collection. Saccharine pastel colours? Checked. 60’s prints your grandma wouldn’t mind? Checked. Fur for summer? Of course, CHECKED. In other words, Miuccia Prada‘s spring-summer 2017 collection is a pure definition of Miu Miu girl. Just like at her main-line this season, Miuccia cheers you up with naïve optymism. Imagining a fairy-tale of sun-drenched, Mediterranean vacations, the designer re-invents a wardrobe of pin-up bikinis, embellished swimming caps and beach-perfect retro dresses. The models, spanning from newcomers to runway favourites, wore wedge sandals and patterned (mink) robes. At first glance, most of the girls resembled Slim Aarons’ posh characters of his dreamy photographs of surreal pool-side parties in the early 70’s. He made his career out of what he called “photographing attractive people doing attractive things in attractive places.” Basically, this is quite similar to Prada’s latest Parisian outing: layers, and layers, of attraction.