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The Look(s) – Valentino AW18 Couture

April 25, 2020 | Design & Culture by Ed

What if Henri Matisse met Valentino‘s Pierpaolo Piccioli? The designer’s joyful autumn-winter 2018 couture collection, with some prints and embroideries inspired by the French painter’s work, was all about the fantastically bold colour palette that Henri would definitely applaud. And clothes that make you dream!

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Posted in Fashion, Haute Couture Art AW18 Collage Couture Fashion Haute Couture Henri Matisse Pierpaolo Piccioli style Valentino

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EPHEMERAL 🔗 #DACBE: “For this collection, black is expressed through shadows,” said #KeiNinomiya in his #SS22 notes. “I wanted to express the ephemeral strength and beauty of things that are present around us although we cannot see them clearly.” More about the collection on the JOURNAL 🖇 #NoirKeiNinomiya #Tokyo #Ephemeral #OrganicBeauty #MushroomSeason #DACBECOLLECTIONS 📎 #collage by me, music: “Another Day” by Air.

DETROIT 👄 #DACBE: Given his choice of venue - #Detroit’s Michigan-Theatre-turned-into-parking-garage - #DanielLee said he asked himself, “What’s American?” It was definitely the sportiest #BottegaVeneta collection he’s shown so far, with tennis whites, dark-rinse jean jackets and skirts, and tracksuits engineered in a crosshatch check knit meant to imitate the house signature intrecciato motif. The utilitarian aesthetic, however, had a sexy twist. More about the SS22 collection - or rather #Salon03 - on the JOURNAL 💄 #NewBottega #LourdesLeon #KissKiss #Americana #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💥 #collage by me, music: “Interlude - Trio” by Lana Del Rey.

SIRENS 🧜🏻‍♀️ #DACBE: #DiPetsa’s vision of contemporary sirens and aquatic goddesses has taken over #Paris. #DimitraPetsa’s signature eveningwear is a result of her unique wet-looking draping process described as “the body emerging from something” and as a method of “accentuating the naked body, not covering it up”. More about the designer’s elusive #SS22 collection on the JOURNAL 💧 #Mermaid #AquaticLife #WetLook #LandArt #RobertSmithson #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💦 #collage by me.

CHIC ADAPTABILITY 🎞 #DACBE: This is one of these #TheRow collections that are just… perfect. And extremely relevant. #AshleyOlsen and #MaryKateOlsen have never been the type to discuss the deeper meaning of their collections, and they’re not about to start now, but the opening look of their #PreFall2022 offering definitely meets the turbulence of our current moment. It’s a grain de poudre jacket worn backwards, its single button fastened mid-spine and its lapels framing the shoulder blades. “Adaptability” is definitely one of their running themes here. More on the JOURNAL 🎙 #NewYork #OlsenTwins #OlsenSisters #OlsenStyle #SoftMinimalism #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🛎 #collage by me featuring #JanuszKorpal’s photos of New York, music: “Everything Happens To Me” by Chet Baker.

NAUTICAL DREAMS ⛵️ #DACBE: #RosieAssoulin is back. Well, not that she was actually absent – her delicious wine project, #Vivanterre, keeps on growing, and her clothing line continuously keeps on delivering the wittiest eveningwear in #NewYork – but #SS22 line-up is the first full-blown collection coming from the designer since the pandemic has started. What stands out most is the collection’s surprising anchor motif – a timeless symbol. Several looks feature bandeau tops hand-knitted in the curvy shape of an anchor, while a crisp white dress had one cut away at the ribcage. These summer-perfect pieces felt light and charming, delicate yet quirky, polished but with plenty of humor. More on the JOURNAL ⚓️ #SummerComeBack #SeaLife #NauticalTheme #ByTheBeach #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💙 #collage by me, music: “High By The Beach” by Lana Del Rey.

REMINISCENCE 🕹 #DACBE: The big three names from Japan – Rei Kawakubo, #JunyaWatanabe and Kei Ninomiya – again skipped #PFW, and they will probably do so until the pandemic completely winds up. From #Tokyo, Watanabe treated the internet with a charming collection filled with gilded draping, filmy fabrics, disrupted tailoring and printed collaborations with Japanese, Chinese, Nepalese, and Thai contemporary artists. More on the JOURNAL 🎈 #Glamorous #BeautifulGesture #CulturalDialogue #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🏮 #collage by me, black & white photograph from #JanuszKorpal’s archives.

Happiness is a butterfly 🦋

LOVE BRINGS LOVE ❤️ #DACBE: The last evening of #PFW was an extraordinary celebration of a fashion genius who left us too early. “Love Brings Love” was a characteristically optimistic mantra of #AlberElbaz, the brilliant and widely beloved designer whose death at 59 from Covid-19 in April of this year devastated the international fashion community. And so it was fitting that under this banner and before a crowd of the designer’s family, friends, colleagues, and peers, including Dries van Noten, Rick Owens, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Jean Paul Gaultier – and France’s First Lady Brigitte Macron – Paris Fashion Week drew to a deeply poignant, but joyful close. For the show, 45 designers and Elbaz’s design team at #AZFactory came together in celebration of his talent, personality, and design legacy, and many were present in the audience that night. “We wanted to find a way to celebrate Alber’s spirit,” explained Elbaz’s long term partner Alex Koo. “It is beautiful to see how each designer revealed a different aspect of Alber. It really was a labor of love.” More on the JOURNAL ❣️ #Paris #SS22 #LoveBringsLove #DriesVanNoten #EdieCampbell #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌹 #collage by me (3/3).

LOVE BRINGS LOVE ❤️ #DACBE: The last evening of #PFW was an extraordinary celebration of a fashion genius who left us too early. “Love Brings Love” was a characteristically optimistic mantra of #AlberElbaz, the brilliant and widely beloved designer whose death at 59 from Covid-19 in April of this year devastated the international fashion community. And so it was fitting that under this banner and before a crowd of the designer’s family, friends, colleagues, and peers, including Dries van Noten, Rick Owens, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Jean Paul Gaultier – and France’s First Lady Brigitte Macron – Paris Fashion Week drew to a deeply poignant, but joyful close. For the show, 45 designers and Elbaz’s design team at #AZFactory came together in celebration of his talent, personality, and design legacy, and many were present in the audience that night. “We wanted to find a way to celebrate Alber’s spirit,” explained Elbaz’s long term partner Alex Koo. “It is beautiful to see how each designer revealed a different aspect of Alber. It really was a labor of love.” More on the JOURNAL ❣️ #Paris #SS22 #LoveBringsLove #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌹 #collage by me (2/3).

LOVE BRINGS LOVE ❤️ #DACBE: The last evening of #PFW was an extraordinary celebration of a fashion genius who left us too early. “Love Brings Love” was a characteristically optimistic mantra of #AlberElbaz, the brilliant and widely beloved designer whose death at 59 from Covid-19 in April of this year devastated the international fashion community. And so it was fitting that under this banner and before a crowd of the designer’s family, friends, colleagues, and peers, including Dries van Noten, Rick Owens, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Jean Paul Gaultier – and France’s First Lady Brigitte Macron – Paris Fashion Week drew to a deeply poignant, but joyful close. For the show, 45 designers and Elbaz’s design team at #AZFactory came together in celebration of his talent, personality, and design legacy, and many were present in the audience that night. “We wanted to find a way to celebrate Alber’s spirit,” explained Elbaz’s long term partner Alex Koo. “It is beautiful to see how each designer revealed a different aspect of Alber. It really was a labor of love.” More on the JOURNAL ❣️ #Paris #SS22 #LoveBringsLove #AdutAkech #TomoKoizumi #Balenciaga #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌹 #collage by me (1/3).

RANDOMNESS 🥚 #DACBE: Livestreamed from #Tokyo, #ReiKawakubo went for her signature, giant portable #CommeDesGarçons sculptures this season, imprinted with exaggerated flowers, leaves and bows. It didn’t feel like one of Kawakubo’s dystopian, apocalyptic moments in which she has seemed to sound a warning about bad things coming. Was her popping-out scenario closer to suggesting a feeling of rebirth, re-emergence, maybe? Or rather… nothing makes sense? Randomness, surrealism and absurdity are registering as part of the mood of 2021. More on the JOURNAL 🫒 #SS22 #CommeDesGarcons #RandomHumor #Surrealism #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍈 #collage by me.

NOTES ON DECADENCE ✨ #DACBE: This was one of the best #LouisVuitton collections in a while. In a long while. The Louvre’s Passage Richelieu was decked out in dozens of antique chandeliers – collected over many months, they set the stage for what #NicolasGhesquière described in his press notes as a “grand bal of time.” At Louis Vuitton, Ghesquière has been fascinated by the notion of time and the way fashion intersects with it and doubles back. He’s a master at colliding references and juxtaposing surprising elements to create anew. With the company celebrating the 200th birthday of the house’s founder, Ghesquière had another reason to take up the subject. More on the JOURNAL 🎶 #PFW #Paris #SS22 #Pannier #Royals #Decadence #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💎 #collage by me, music: “Count Contessa” by Azealia Banks.

MIU ANGST ❤️‍🔥 #DACBE: #MiuMiu went hardcore Miu Miu for #SS22, and this is the best thing that could happen to us this season. There’s a strange correlation going on: the more complex and sometimes over-worked #MiucciaPrada‘s main line becomes with Raf Simons, the better and desiable Miu Miu gets. Miuccia’s Paris-based label seems to be going through some sort of unapologetic renaissance. This time, the Miu Miu girl – who might equally be a mature woman – goes through a teenage angst phase. More on the JOURNAL 🐱 #MiuMiuGirl #LottaVolkova #Paris #PFW #MonaTougaard #RianneVanRompaey #SelenaForrest #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🐈‍⬛ #collage by me, music: “Bop it up!” by The Marias.

CHANEL, CHANEL, CHANEL 🤍 #DACBE: For #SS22, #VirginieViard delivered us the pure essence of #Chanel – especially the 1980s-slash-90s one. If not for the contemporary models, you could mistake this collection with a 1992 line-up. Back in the day, supermodels came bounding down the high, raised runways exuding joie de vivre as they twirled and vamped for the photographers who had jostled for prime position, not only in the mosh pit at the end of the runway, but all along its length. Viard wanted to replicate that ambience, and she succeeded. More on the JOURNAL 🐚 #Paris #PFW #ChanelVintage #JoieDeVivre #AylahPeterson #AbbyChampion #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌹 #collage by me.

UTOPIAN YOUTH 🎣 #DACBE: Oh, to live in his world… #JohnGalliano’s Co-Ed collection – his name for his all-gendered ready-to-wear – carries all the hallmarks of the terrific Artisanal haute couture collection that he launched with a film back in July. To recap: the narrative swirled through a fantasy that connected historic imagery of Dutch fishermen with an imagined community of young #MaisonMargiela survivors, washed up together on a coastline. For #SS22, Galliano re-emphasized how inspired he’s been by “the dreams of the future that young people are having, and making their reality.” More on the JOURNAL 💛 #Paris #PFW #Utopia #FantasyWorld #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🤍 #collage by me.

SURREAL BEACH 🌋 #DACBE: For #Schiaparelli #SS22, #DanielRoseberry’s vibe was “David Lynch holiday.” Couture-ish beachwear and extraordinary loungewear are ready for equally extraordinary escapades. The words Schiap Hotel were stitched around the hem of a densely embellished bathrobe - now I’m off to the plage de Schiap. More on the JOURNAL ⛱ #Paris #PFW #Surrealism #ALaPlage #BeachTime #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🏖 #collage by me.

DÉSIR 🌞 #DACBE: On #LudovicDeSaintSernin’s runway, heat and sex are regular ingredients. “I feel like we were in such a digital world for like a year-and-a-half that it was really critical for me to reconnect with physicality and sensuality, in a way that you could almost grab it,” said De Saint Sernin behind his co-ed spring-summer 2022 fashion show titled “Désir“. More on the JOURNAL 🐚 #Paris #PFW #SS22 #MalikaLouback #TheMiniDress #DACBECOLLECTIONS ✨ #collage by me.

RED CARPET 🌹 #DACBE: #DemnaGvasalia returned to #PFW with his #Balenciaga, and to all the others: game over. He won the week. Again, he’s a genius. “Well,” remarked Gvasalia, “we needed something fun to happen.” For #SS22, he staged a fake red carpet celebrity-studded, movie-style premiere event and a real one. “I’ve wanted to do a premiere concept where the guests would be the show for many seasons,” he said. “It was nice to have a social occasion again. I hoped it would make people smile.” It was hysterical – in the best possible way. More on the JOURNAL ❤️‍🔥 #Paris #IsabelleHuppert #JuergenTeller #DovileDrizyte #DevHynes #EllaEmhoff #RealHousewives #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🗞 #collage by me, music: “Tu Ed foutu” by In-Grid.

ERO-CHIC 🚨 #DACBE: This might be the season of “sexy”, but nobody does sex in fashion like #ChristopherKane. Never vulgar, but always elusive, enigmatic, multi-faceted and exciting. This is exactly what the erotically chic #SS22 collection feels like. More on the JOURNAL 🚦 #PFW #Paris #Madonna #HumanNature #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌋 #collage by me.

CELEBRATE LIFE ❤️‍🔥 #DACBE: In his brilliant and vibrant #SS22 collection for #Valentino, #PierpaoloPiccioli celebrates life and all its beauty. To mark the return of Valentino’s ready-to-wear to Paris, he took over the old marketplace at the Carreau du Temple, and a row of neighboring cafés and restaurants opposite, to put on a joyful all-gendered show reunion symbolically blurring the distinctions between insiders and outsiders. “It has been such such a tough moment. That’s why I decided to get Valentino into a new dimension: life”. More on the JOURNAL 🌹 #Paris #PFW #LoveLife #Celebration #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🖍 #collage by me, music: “Love & Happiness” by River Ocean and La India.

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