Men’s – Calm Men. Wales Bonner SS17

June 16, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Grace Wales Bonner, 25, the London-based menswear designer, has been announced as LVMH Prize 2016 winner (along Vejas Kruszewski, who won the second prize), gaining the a major back-up for her eponymous brand. But in fact that’s just one of the reasons I’m writing about her today. The latter is her latest, break-through outing during London Fashion Week, which is pure poetry. When creating her label, Bonner’s main aim was to break the stereotype of black male fashion as aggressive, popularly seen in posture of hip-hop sweatpants and rapper’s gold chains. Wales Bonner’s work focuses on black male sexuality, unconventional masculine identity, and mainly afro-American cultural experience.

With a background of growing up in South East London and having a Jamaican dad, Grace looks forward to show the masses a new diversity in fashion, but from a totally different perspective – it’s much calmer, gentler, not as bold as in Stella Jean‘s way. This season, she was inspired particularly by Ethiopia’s emperor from the 30s, Haile Selassie, who was famous for blurring the African rituals with his own, military coronations and “style”. Tailoring, the season’s ultimate highlight, was embellished with crystals, all in traditional crotchet and meticulous embroidery. Her decorated, slightly dandy-ish men are accompanied by female models, who wear similarly androgynous pieces – gender fluidity is nothing new to us in London. But according to Wales Bonner’s vision, male beauty becomes something much more unexpected, yet highly signature. Her debut runway show was a bomb – and with LVMH’s funds, Grace will surely keep doing her thing.

Save Meadham Kirchhoff!

June 15, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

When Meadham Kirchhoff stopped doing street-casted shows and closed their brand, it was a very, very bad omen for the fashion industry, which, first things first, should be fuelled by creativity. Benjamin Kirchhoff and Edward Meadham were creating the boldest, the happiest and the heartiest label in London, or even in the entire world – but then, “debts have caught up” and this relatively small, studio-based label couldn’t survive the pressure of this sadly, too corporate world.

If that wasn’t bad enough – it appeared that the designers were forced out of their studio, and Meadham Kirchhoff’s archive was confiscated by the succeeding occupier. Remember the glamorous pieces from their gothic past, all those vinyl coats and naughty, glittered bodysuits? They aren’t owned by the designers since that moment. But, heads up – there’s a chance for Meadham Kirchhoff archive to be retrieved and be admired in its full grace. Curator Shonagh Marshall has worked with Edward and Benjamin, and selected around 50 pieces that will be donated to museums. As one of the designers said “we had an impact on culture and on British and international fashion, and we want these clothes to live beyond the context of a personal wardrobe; we always wanted Meadham Kirchhoff clothes to be seen, not something to just have and never wear.” The selection, was priced at £15,000 – this is a sum that can buy back 12 years of the duo’s work. If you mind / care / want to help – I strongly advise you to donate a pound or a hundred here. Let’s support British fashion history and Meadham Kirchhoff creative legacy, which indeed changed a lot!

Some of the photographs are by Drew Jarrett, shot for 1 Granary.

Men’s – Confusing Odyssey. JW Anderson SS17

June 13, 2016June 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

For boys, Jonathan Anderson gets extra peculiar, season-to-season. Maybe it’s because he feels that menswear is his in designer roots? Let’s not forget that J.W. Anderson was initially a men’s fashion label. Spring-summer 2017 collection feels like one of Anderson’s first outings – no commercial pressure (at first sight), just pure creativity. The latest collection is like a space odyssey, welcoming the unknown. Over-sized tunics, astronaut pantalons – is it the character of Little Prince, but a bit older? He still wears his crown, according to the designer. Also, this eccentric type of guy, Saint‐Exupéry’s fictional creation-like, seems to have a weak point for Jonathan’s signature “Pierce” bags, and colour spectrum coats, which look quite psychedelic when styled with high, lace-up boots. If this level of outer-space fashion isn’t reaching its peak, then take a look at the orange sunglasses. Then, there are the prints with frogs and Egyptian god of afterlife, Anubis. Luc Besson’s apocalyptic sci-fi thriller? Hacker style? I don’t have a clue what’s the message. Was that the aim? Anderson leaves me lost for words, and quite confused. But one thing’s sure – an upcoming collaboration between Anderson and musician ASAP Rocky is on its way. Elusively tagged as JWA X AWGE.

Men’s – Gender Culture. Casely-Hayford SS17

June 12, 2016June 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

The father-and-son duo, Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford, have many reasons to call spring-summer 2016 collection one of the biggest highlights of their career up to date. What pleasantly surprised everyone during the show was the fact that the fash-fam introduced a womenswear capsule, accompanying their festival-cool menswear looks. “We’ve been asked about doing it for years,” said Charlie. “Now felt right. We want to dress a woman who is a partner to the Casely-Hayford man—but she is very much independent and different to him too.” Their debut in the world of women was like the feeling of a breeze by the sea, so refreshing. Jacquard, which was used in coats production, was made with a more than 200-years old weaving mill, while the dresses with knitted details in sharp, summer-y colours, will be the right choice for warm days. Casely-Hayford is known for top-notch tailoring, but in contrast to their Savile Row friends who do strictly elegant suits, this label breaks the well-known conventions. No wonder why the women’s part was as focused on perfectly-cut blazers as men’s, and was equally edgy. The moodboard behind the collection was filled a variety of British music movements, from 70s rock and Jimi Hendrix to 00s grime and Mick Jagger. With all that diversity in mind, there was a sharp game of oriental patterns, paisley, bleach splashes and tie-dye textiles. Also, spot the richness of jewellery – tribal necklaces and pendants (which looked like great, flea-market finds) were worn nonchalantly by both genders with embroidered robe-coats and denim jackets. Looking forward to see how Joe and Charlie will continue their new, even more daring chapter in fashion!

Anglomania. Gucci Resort’17

June 4, 2016June 4, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Just a few weeks before Britain’s choice whether to remain in European Union, London has suddenly become the capital of resort 2017 collections. Firstly, Dior showed its mild collection in Blenheim Palace; secondly, Alessandro Michele, the creative director of Gucci, proved that Italian fashion goes in pair with anglomania. Covered with dark-green, needlepoint cushions, the famous Westminster Abbey was transformed into a venue for the most eccentric Michele’s show up to date (note: every show by Gucci gets even more peculiar and twisted…). Gucci girls and Gucci boys went down the Gothic church, all bold and playful, reivisiting cult fashion tribes of London. From Camden Market loving geeks to Rolling Stones fanatics in slim denim trousers and t-shirts (with old-school GUCCI logos – next season’s must-have), Alessandro praised Britain’s biggest style eras in this extremely non-chalant outing.

“To dive in this gothic sea of inspiration!” he began. “The punk, the Victorian, the eccentric—with this inspiration, I can work all my life!” The former, origing from Vivienne Westwood’s rebellious times of SEX boutique and Sex Pistols costumes, was reflected in tartan ball gown and badass, yet classy attitude of the clothes. One of the jackets was a perfect Victoriana sleeve sample, but all in baby-pink astrakhan fur; Thatcher-era Kensington grannies crossed the abbey during the show, wearing printed silk dresses and foulards on their heads; there was even a Spice Girl moment which will be remembered for long in the industry – rainbow striped platform sneakers HAPPENED, spicing it all up. It’s not a surprise that Alessandro thought of Scottish kilts, too – they were worn casually with lady-like, blue pea-coats. Chic, right?

Looking at this collection, you might be confused with all that opulence of topics, and even doubt whether this is still about so-called “good taste”. But Alessandro Michele, who made the ready-to-wear sales spike in this 95-year-old Italian brand, blurs the term. In fact, these outfits remind me of great, vintage-selling Instagram shops, which are loved for the extraordinary styling. Let me recommend you @the_corner_store – check it out by the way. .

Back to Gucci. While writing this, I’m listening to Siouxsie & The Banshees “Face to Face”, and I’m authentically feeling the mood conveyed by Michele. It’s rock’n’roll, slightly alternative, very theatrical – breaking the rules and even the system. Of course it’s not as radical as Westwood and McLaren – but it’s a leap away from all this safe minimalism which is trending for the last few years. And if I mention that I’m watching the second episode of 80s favourite comedy show, Absolutely Fabulous, starring Eddy and Patsy, you can imagine the affair I feel with this collection. Glam, over-the-top effect and never-mature clubbing lifestyle. I love it! Although Alessandro is an Italian, who loves embroideries and lace, he’s also an anglomaniac, obsessed with unconventional youth and aristocracy-meets-punk thing England is famous of. “You are part of the culture of Europe!” exclaimed the designer backstage, showing his love for British art, fashion and music side. I’m quite sure that if all the Brits take a peek at this collection, they will be sure about their vote during the referendum coming this month.