In Motion. Marc Jacobs Resort 2018

June 10, 2017June 10, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

For resort 2018, Marc Jacobs wanted to convey the feeling of movement, which is so vibrantly present in the designer’s latest obsession: Robert Longo’s drawings of dancing figures. In fact, those clothes won’t look as good on a rack – they were designed to be worn, with grace. The little black dress is pure chic, and Marc might want to consider going this path of gorgeous dressses. Pencil skirts in pastel blue, lilac and pink are trimmed in plastic beads, making them ready for any night-out. To keep it downtown and Jacobs’ way, denim and slouchy knits were styled with more ‘event’ pieces.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Evolving. Koché Resort 2018

June 9, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Although emerging designers prefer to stay away from pre-collections, Kristelle Kocher took the ambitious path. Ladies and Gentlemen, here’s the first ever resort collection coming from the Paris-based Koché. We’ve all got used to the label’s remote show venues (like vast public spaces of the French capital or Folies Bergères) that helped Kristelle build and envision her label’s street identity. Kocher’s pre-collection proves that Koché has its design codes that continue to evolve. The idea of streetwear with haute human touch is here for good. But it’s not about your average hoodies, oh no. Expect intricately embellished, yet loose (track)suits; fleecy sweaters made of different gauge yarns; feminine feather inserts and boas clashed with athletic jackets. The look-book is filled with white, black and electric shades of blue and coral red – you can choose toned or daring, according to your mood.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki (backdrop: ‘Raindrops’ installation by Urs Fischer).

Unexpected. Acne Studios Resort 2018

June 7, 2017June 9, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Would you ever expect to see Veruschka in Acne Studios‘ lookbook? I knew you would say ‘nope’. But here we are – the supermodel stars in the brand’s resort 2018 collection. Her poses are spontanous, just like Acne’s styling. “The creative process was dynamic and easy; she was almost taking over,” Jonny Johansson explained. “And this is what we want, this is what’s real.” Very American denim-on-denim gears; over-sized polo shirts over skinny, red leather pants; a checked blazer and an Acne Studios signature hoodie. Veruschka von Lehndorff, completely make-up free, seems not to care much on those striking photos. This is precisely how style works at Acne: utility meets a kind of urban non-chalance, while a person’s attitude is undoubtedly more important than the actual clothes.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Gucci-fy It. Gucci Resort 2018

May 30, 2017May 31, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In the race of fancy venues for the pre-spring collections, Gucci took their guests to the most Italian city – Florence. And specificaly, to the Palantine gallery of the Palazzo Pitti, known for its ornamental interiors. I wouldn’t be honest with myself if I started to wow and oh over Alessandro Michele‘s latest outing, which is twice richer in literally everything than usual. But what really impressed me was the way Michele went ironic with his up-to-date achievement at Gucci. He didn’t only turn the brand into international commercial prosperity. Have you met some of the Instagram ladies, who wear, breath and think only GUCCI? They’re seriously obsessed with the brand, wearing dozens of Gucci rings at a time and taking total runway looks to the streets. Michele has one, meaningful reply to that mania of his creation: Guccification. At least, some of the t-shirts from his resort 2018 collection had this slogan on.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Big in Japan. Louis Vuitton Resort’18

May 15, 2017June 9, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

This is what you call a show. Chanel did a faux Ancient Greece venue at Parisian Grand Palais; Prada took us to Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle’s attic; Dior had its guests see the show in the middle of a Californian canyon. But Nicolas Ghesquiere, and his team at Louis Vuitton, outdid himself. Again. The Miho Museum, a half-hour drive from Kyoto, is one of the most spectacular and out-of-this-world buildings in the world. Designed by I.M. Pei, the architecture of this place reminds you of some utopian space odyssey – and that’s precisely what Nicolas wanted to achieve, sending down a line of futuristic silhouettes with equally futuristic setting in the backdrop.

*1,2,3. Territory by The Blaze, Indestructible by Robyn (remixed). Just wow.*

Continuing to love Japan and its culture, the creative designer of the French maison did an impressive job in conveying his long-term relation with the country. He found just the right balance, not falling into oriental stereotypes, and what’s worse, cultural appropriation (a frequent problem among other designers). Those were the modern-day, badass attitude samurai girls, wearing over-sized biker jackets with leopard prints, skater shorts and weaved leather vests. Kansai Yamamoto was on Ghesquiere’s mind while designing the collection – that’s the Japanese designer, who dressed David Bowie in glittering jumpsuits and paved the way for Yohji Yamamoto and Kenzo Takada few decades ago in Paris. Now, his bold, artistic legacy gets a revamp according to Vuitton codes. Handbags with Kabuki eyes, prints of local fishermen, a variety of toned colour combinations: Japanese avant-garde of the late 20th century goes slightly more French, more refined. In an effortless, loose way. The collection, in overall, has something of Ghesquiere’s early Balenciaga days. But the designer has already established his language at Louis Vuitton – so it feels just the right way.