Raise The Glass. Maryam Nassir Zadeh SS17

October 16, 2016October 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

After a month of fashion, fashion and once again, fashion, the days after the last shows in Paris feel like the most idyllic moment for the fashion industry. Also, it’s the time to reflect on the season, and review much quieter, yet equally brilliant collections from off-the-radar designers. Maryam Nassir Zadeh‘s spring-summer 2017 was presented at the beginning of warm September in a West Village gallery, and it was rather a downtown brunch with friends (including Ana Kraš, Mari Giudicelli, Oroma Elewa and other MNZ girls) than a fashion show. Zadeh’s women sat at a table piled with fruits and Mediterranean ceramics, and later on started to smash the plates and vases on the floor. No, it wasn’t an art performance; metaphorically, the designer was raising a glass to the success of her brand, her boutique, and creative women, who surround her on daily basis.

The collection is a dream wardrobe for summer. Loosely fit silhouettes and on-the-go styling tricks; sensual, sheer skirts and leather bras; gorgeous denim skirts and lovely beige palette. Maryam is the designer who proudly represents eponymous New York style. It results in the designer’s origins, and maybe the city’s melting-pot culture. Or, it’s just about the idea of making affordable, yet high quality clothes for women in any age. The presentation also celebrated the brand’s debut bag. It’s a hand-woven tote in mint-green. One thing is guaranteed – it will sell fast, in this and any other colour.

La Santons de Provence. Jacquemus SS17

September 28, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simon Porte Jacquemus, like Christelle Kocher or Glenn Martens, is a represantative of Paris’ new generation of most daring and exciting fashion designers. Jacquemus frequently mentions his typically French child-hood as a continous inspiration for his collections, and spring-summer 2017 is not an exception. But his newest “story”, as he tends to call it, is much more refined. The designer searched deep in Provençal folk culture, and he conveyed the mood of a sun-drenched, care-free French village girl in a brilliant way.

Jacquemus loves the term naive. There’s always something childish about his collections, and this season it’s definitely the setting of his venue: a fake, orange sun glowed at the end of the runway, radiating with summer nostalgia. First element of the show that caught my eye was a range of lovely, straw hats, or chapeau de paille if you prefer French. The dresses with voluminous sleeves and over-sized pinstripe suits are on everybody’s lips for spring, but Simon managed to make them look eternally chic. In fact, the collection isn’t about a new idea or silhouette. Borrowed-from-a-guy shirt, block-heeled shoes, geometrical culottes and sexy cuts are very Jacquemus. I guess that’s the appeal of this collection: it’s focused on weekend-perfect ready-to-wear with an arty twist. And it’s quite easy to wear, if you take it off the runway!

Beach Happiness. Rosie Assoulin SS17

September 16, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

One thing’s sure so far – spring-summer 2017, in comparison to autumn-winter 2016, will be the season of optimism. We already had Altuzarra and Thom Browne to prove that with their joyous outings. Rosie Assoulin is another designers in the schedule, who looks for happiness in the world of fashion. We are so exhausted with reality’s perks. Why not just leave everything behind, and go to the beach with your colourful umbrella and a big, big hat?

With biodegradable packing peanuts resembling sand dunes, and sparse, potted palms all around the presentation’s venue, Rosie looked back at her Jersey Shore childhood while designing the new collection. Thinking of everybody’s beloved vacation symbol, umbrellas, she sent out a line of striped lurex dresses and over-sized pantalons. Those clothes are perfect for a summer escape – take the feminine, floral jumpsuit with ruffles, or a robe-dress in cream-white. “Have a nice day” t-shirt, styled with hippie pants, is cute and so not obvious! Also, to her summer wardrobe Assoulin introduces the first ever denim pants, kept in a cool, loose fit. Summer, please come back.

Oh, and I nearly forgot. The bags. The amphorae-shaped straw bag in multi-coloured stripes is your new alternative of a basic, picnic basket. “Ceramicists are very calming”, the designer confessed.

Throwback Sunday – Prada SS04

July 31, 2016July 28, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

#ThrowbackSunday – spring/summer 2004

“It was about tourism and craftsmanship, many things,” Miuccia Prada said of her spring-summer 2004 outing. Few years after Anthony Minghella’s cult The Talented Mr. Ripley, a sun-drenched thriller set in Italy, Prada was going straight for sunny dolce vita á la Gwyneth Paltrow’s wardrobe and Jude Law’s idyllic escapades. On-the-waist skirts printed with Mediterranean scenes, Capri pants, bathing suits, evening frocks, silk bras and tulle dresses in earthy shades of brown – did you need anything else back in 2004 for a great summer season? It’s absolutely relevant today, by the way. This is what you call an Italian luggage for true, Roman holidays.

Miuccia’s Warm Days

May 31, 2016May 31, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

When it’s sweltering hot on the streets and you dream of a cold splash of water… then take a look at Miuccia Prada‘s spring-summer 2009 collection for her main-line. Thank me later for this breezy throwback…

Like taken out of a classical, Italian film, the shameless femininity in this collection, filled with crinkled fabrics, pencil skirts and seashell earrings, brings the musings of a warm, summer night. The poetry behind this beautiful collection is kept in the intriguing manner of the clothes – dress’ straps and short jackets looked as if they were about to fall down off the models’ bodies. “It’s primitive,” Prada said, “going back to what counts.” Surely, this collection has counts like no other in 2016. And definitely, it can be taken as a good tip this summer!