9 1/2 Weeks directed by Adrian Lyne is a cult film from the 80s, blurring the lines between refined romance and subtle erotica. Elizabeth McGraw (played by super-bombshell, Kim Basinger) and John Gray (young Mickey Rourke) find each other in New York’s Chinatown, and their relationship becomes a journey of love with ups and downs.
But what really strikes you, when you watch the film, is this something sensual about Elizabeth’s clothing. Her knitted sweater is three sizes too big, but the viewer is appealed by the way her body is hidden. As an assistant of art gallery curator, Liz prefers unconventional for her daily wear: pastel-blue tights, Jane Birkin-like basket and her favourite cocoon trench-coat. When with John, she loves her boyfriend’s businessman wardrobe, and choses to wear tailored blazers with shoulder pads and pin-stripe pants. No wonder why the two shop at Comme Des Garçons-like store (which in fact might be one), filled with Japanese avant-garde garments.
New York fashion scene was going through a lot, and all-black was a statement. For exhibition openings, Elizabeth was likely to be seen in a black mini-dresses with exposed shoulder, wearing dark tights of course. Watching this film, I just can’t stop thinking that fashion hasn’t changed even a bit. From Lemaire‘s slouchy shirt-and-pants chic to Jacquemus over-sized jackets, it’s clear that the spirit of 80s feels relevant up to today. While Anthony Vaccarello’s spring-summer 2017 debut for Saint Laurent is pure 9 1/2 Weeks, really: leather secretary skirts, strip-tease-perfect cocktail dresses, killer heels.
From left: Jacquemus AW16; Saint Laurent SS17; Celine AW14.
From left: Lemaire SS17; Lemaire AW16; Lemaire AW14.