Luar is New York Fashion Week’s lifebelt. Just like Marc Jacobs did until 2020, now its Raul López who’s closing the week, and he does it with powerful bravado and vivacious attitude. His spring-summer 2025 fashion show – taking place outdoors at Rockefeller Plaza – was a brilliant finale moment after days of rather dull, plain-looking fashion shows and collections that said nothing. The designer had named the collection “En Boca Quedó,” a Dominican saying usually used when leaving a conversation that means “I’m leaving, but now you’ll speak of me“. “It can be a form of shade, but also very loving, in a funny haha shade way,” Raul explained. The dramatic silhouettes that walked the evening runway definitely voiced the “en boca quedó” spirit: taffeta pieces cut to hulking proportions that served as a kind of armor while completely revealing the body underneath; sumptuous, oversized leather jacket-dress with oversized curved sleeves and in leopard printed pony-hair; and the voluminous ball-like trench-coat that was a beautiful middle finger to the “quiet luxury” cliché. Madonna who sat in the front row loves Luar. You should love it, too.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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