Dries Without Dries. Dries Van Noten SS25

It’s still very difficult to comprehend that Dries Van Noten is no longer designing Dries Van Noten. Even though the Belgian designer was in cheerful (and relaxed) attendance at the first studio-designed collection, I find it hard to feel persuaded by the spring-summer 2025 line-up. As Cathy Horyn put it in her review, it’s generic. No narration behind it, just very commercial-looking clothes with no essence or urgency. The collection seemed to check all the boxes what a Dries offering should look like: florals, embroideries, a tension between feminine and masculine. But that’s not enough to make this absolutely important – and needed – brand thrive without its founder at creative helm. A confident mind is needed, ASAP. I would give the job to Jun Takahashi of Undercover – that would be a beyond beautiful match! – or the über-talented, emerging designer Niccolò Pasqualetti.

I shed a tear at the Dries Van Noten boutiques on the Left Bank. I hope these stores will never be rebranded, they are just too charming and 100% Dries!