Résumé. Balenciaga Pre-Fall’16

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Balenciaga is another label which postpones its pre-collection release, taking Céline‘s and The Row‘s path. Moreover, there’s another reason why this pre-fall 2016 collection is a major highlight for the house. In fact, it was designed between the abrupt period of Alexander Wang’s departure from the maison, and styled during the first days of Demna Gvasalia‘s appearance. The press release informs that the collection wasn’t fully supervised by Demna, so the autumn-winter 2016 can be called his official debut – however, there are distinct twists coming from Balenciaga’s design studio, which will be surely approved by all Vetements fans. From over-sized hoodies to floral dresses, some of the looks could be easily understood as even pricier pieces coming straight from Vetements’ showroom. The next, much more sophisticated, all-black looks worn by Stella Tennant and Julia Nobis aren’t that simple, though, focusing on Cristobal Balenciaga’s famous body-sculpture play. The collection quietly nods to Nicolas Ghesquiere’s era, with this must-have aviator jacket with a shearling collar. Not surprisingly, Alexander Wang’s three-or-so year-long “legacy” is erased utterly, and hopefully, it will never come back.

The idea of photographing the models in a Balenciaga archive warehouse is brilliant, and it shapes an image of a brand, which wisely balances the past and the future. The very commercial, fur stoles with huge BALENCIAGA written all over them will sell immediately, I guess, just like Gvasalia’s vision for the house. Not that this collection is a masterpiece. But still, it builds strong foundation for Demna, makes a résumé of the past, and eventually, might become the season’s best-seller.

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Demna’s Chapter. Balenciaga AW16

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Something new is afoot Paris, and it’s good. I think it’s the energy of youth, which contrasts with the old-school, corporate system. Koché, Jacquemus, Y / Project and Vetements prove that, with their recently delivered collection. But if talking of the last one, though – Demna Gvasalia leads this talented league, and pushes his vision to a much larger space of expression. And we are talking about Balenciaga now – the house, which was found by Cristobal Balenciaga in 1919, which raised the designer of our century, so Nicolas Ghesquiere, and went under a three-year period of uncertainty with Alexander Wang‘s miserable sport-meets-couture attempts. But Demna is a designer, who knows best how to create desirable fashion which is going to sell (Vetements sales turnout is the perfect example) – so, the unexpected choice of him as the creative director of the historic maison is both exciting, and reasonable.

But if you think that Gvasalia is about to change Balenciaga into a higher-cost Vetements, then you are wrong – the autumn-winter outing seemed to state visible barriers between the post-Soviet, anti-fashion soul from the eponymous brand, as it freshly implemented the spirit of Balenciaga into a modern-day wardrobe of pure edginess. Back in the days, Cristobal wanted to look into fashion’s future, and Gvasalia understands that, by giving the audience over-sized, cosmic duvet jackets, leather market bags and embroidered tea-dresses. The floral prints were a bold nod to Balenciaga’s temperament and Spanish origins – while the tailoring, also a long-forgotten signature of the house, was revamped. “How do you persuade a woman to wear a two-piece suit who is not the German Chancellor?” Grey, flannel two-button jacket and a slit pencil skirt, in which the shoulders were slightly over-sized, “was the posture and the attitude, and Cristóbal’s way of working with the body I (Demna) found interesting.

In other words, Gvasalia’s debut for Balenciaga isn’t favoured by me, and by other critics just because it’s a debut – these clothes, the concept, and the styling are ground-breaking, and smartly look back at the rich archives of Cristobal Balenciaga. Unlike his predecessor, Demna Gvasalia looks forward to a much more creative approach, and even if we’ve seen a few of those tricks at Vetements – the new chapter at Balenciaga is the one to have on your radar.

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Mirrors. Balenciaga SS14

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Cristobal Balenciaga did not die for what I have seen in Paris in the morning. Second collection by Alexander Wang for the Maison Balenciaga. From what should I start? That this collection meant that Balenciaga is done? Or just that it was the most boring and sad collection of the season? Well, I was excited about Wang’s collection in New York- it was great. But this what he did at Balenciaga… Is he scared to show his talent? Maybe the pressure is to strong. The collection for Summer 2014 was presented in an old, all white building, with beautiful view on park and cool mirror walls on the sides… It feels cool. But when the first look is done, the first feeling totally changes. It simply winded with boring designs, that were too forced to be more classical than former Balenciaga’s designer, Nicolas Ghesquiere. The collection was in mine opinion too sporty and simple, after what we saw three seasons ago- these dull printed skirts, running tops, boring to death dresses just make me remind  the GREATNESS of Cristobal and Nicolas.

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Simbolismo Religioso in Fashion

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Very soon I am going to visit Florence, the magical capital city of beautiful Tuscany! As I am now in a Dolce Vita mood, so a bit inspired with Dolce & Gabbana that may not feel so sweet life for a moment, I thought of the religious symbolism in fashion- not of this season, but from 1960 year when Cristobal Balencaiag designed his bridal dress with nuns head dressing inspired hat to Les Novices where Brigitte Bardot stars as a newcoming female nun that just don’t real know what to do and sins a lot there and there… I thought of Sevillas Santa Semanas holiday and the splendor of Vatican church that I truly love! And if Church women would wear Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2013, then it would perfectly match at Brugges nunnery. Although it all sounds very good, Kate Moss at W Magazine showed herself as a satan or a witch with sharp claws and vampire teeth… this editorial is very spooky! Just as Kristen McMenamy at opening and closing the Giles AW13 show, wearing a super scary make-up and anglican inspired gowns. As I am not really a religious person, I hope this post won’t make anybody offended. Note: Stefano Pilatti, while worked as a bad designer at (Yves) Saint Laurent, told as on AW10 that his collection HAS NO RELIGIOUS SYMBOLISM. Well, it’s fashion!Slide07

1. Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere SS12___ 2. Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 13___ 3. Valentino AW13___ 4. Yves Saint Laurent AW10___ 5. Yves Saint Laurent AW10___ 6. Kate Moss in W Magazine___ 7. Cristobal Balenciaga 1960___ 8. Female Nuns___ 9. Victoria Beckham AW11___ 10. Vogue Paris___ 11. Balenciaga by Alexander Wang AW13 Campaign and Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere SS13 Look___ 12. KateMoss in W Magazine___ 13. Giles AW13___ 14. Vogue Paris___ 15. Lily McMenamy in Purple Fashion___ 16. Vogue Paris and W Magazine___ 17. Givenchy Menswear SS10___ 18. Les Novices___ 19. Kate Moss in W Magazine___ 20. Givenchy Jesus Crown Menswear  from SS10 and Givenchy Menswear SS13___ 21. Interview Germany Dolce & Gabbananuns2Slide04Slide03kate by steven klein-2012_8Slide01nuns7Slide05100_emmanuelle_alt_vogue_paris_april_2006_noces_blanches_daria_werbowySlide06Kate-Moss-W-Magazine-8Slide08101_emmanuelle_alt_vogue_paris_april_2006_noces_blanches_daria_werbowypurplr-fashn-ss13Slide09Slide10novices-04-gkate_moss5aSlide11IMG_7919