Routine Absurds. Balenciaga Pre-Fall’17

April 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Demna Gvasalia had spandex boots on his Balenciaga runway. He did gargantuan, big bazaar bags. The Georgian designer has even proved us that corporate dressing is not just for Angela Merkel and her wardrobe. With his every hit (and they get edgier and edgier with every season), the clothes you would rather burn than call ‘fashion’ become somewhat sudden objects of desire. Pre-fall 2017 collection is the best prove for that, as all of Gvasalia’s biggest moments at the house are refreshed and reminded. And they look fire. Every single piece. Even a scarf tied under the chin (we live in 2017, so it’s a ‘babushka hood’…) in intense fuchsia looks brilliant. A nod to Gvasalia’s Soviet origins? Probably. But feels so contemporary, even if you know it’s NOT.

Daily routine has its ~~trashy, cringey, cheesy,~~ but beautiful absurds. Just some food for brain.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki; styling by Lotta Volkova; photography by Harley Weir.

Eerie Chic. Balenciaga AW17

March 15, 2017March 15, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Cristobal Balenciaga’s couture in today’s world – that’s what Demna Gvasalia‘s thought about for this season. His third, womenswear show for Balenciaga was the most literal nod towards the maison’s founder up to date, as it ended with voluminous, ball gowns. But they wouldn’t be Demna, if they weren’t at the proper level of peculiarity. One of them was a walking pile of feathers, styled with a bazaar bag (also covered in feathers, from the bottom to the top). Those colossal bags, instead of conventional clutches, were another clue that Gvasalia isn’t going straight haute couture path.

If talking of more wearable pieces, the Georgian designer went for something sensually chic – and this time, it was intriguingly elegant, no jokes. Femme fatale pencil skirts (made of haute car mats), over-sized sweaters, over-the-knee boots (last season’s spandex obsession continues) – it was sexy and eerie simultaneously. Although Demna has established his Balenciaga classics – the bags, duvet jackets, killer hills – and might already rest on his laurels, he thrives to develop a continuous language at the brand, every time with a new twist and new perspective.

Stereotypes. Vetements AW17

January 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Last week was about so many things going on in Paris. Menswear shows, which were especially good this season; haute couture collections that were so boring or, hmm, boring I just couldn’t find the energy to write about them. And then there was Vetements autumn-winter 2017 collection for both men and women – this one sparked the discussion immediately. At some point Demna Gvasalia and his collective had to slow down with doing viral sweatshirts, or else a day would come saying the brand burnt out. Good for them – the latest collection distinctly differs from the previous ones, in its structure and the idea behind (no sleazy sex-clubs; no Juicy Couture collabs).

Vetements is a brand, which authentically origins from the streets, and this season the collective literally took all their urban observations to the Centre Pompidou venue. There was the emo girl with her black hair, black-everything gear; a Milanesa, an elderly lady who knows what’s chic in her fur coat; chavs in tracksuits and football-team scarves; corporate secretary aka Lotta Volkova; Coco ~~Chanel~~ lady in her pearls and tweed; IT nerds and perversely looking geeks. There was even a badass bride – a nod to the glossy anti-Vetements world of couture. Stereotypes function in our society and no wonder why Gvasalia decided to mess up with them. If you want to push Vetements’ AW17 into any trend report, good luck then – start from ‘military’ and end on ‘German tourists’.

Rave with Chic. Balenciaga Resort’17

October 25, 2016October 25, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Here it is: Balenciaga resort 2017 collection. Logistically, the look-book has been released just few weeks before the actual clothes hit the stores – and it’s already a craving desire to see those pieces in real-life. It went public yesterday, causing my heart to skip a beat for a longer moment. So, what’s Demna Gvasalia up to for his first, fully designed pre-collection at the French maison? First thing’s first – the caps. Some might say that sending out a line of logo caps is a desperate move to become somewhat affordable, or at least relevant for a brand. But in case of Gvasalia, it’s different. His creative background at Vetements is based on underground, rave-like style. He doesn’t have to make himself look younger in the fashion industry. He loves going out with his friends on the weekends. And, I must confess – those BALENCIAGA caps work well with voluminous, striped caftans and maxi-dresses. There’s no philosophy behind, really.

The Georgian designer looks forward to the new season through smart continuity. He’s not a type of designer who flips prints and colours every season: over-sized, bazar totes are here since his first collection, just like the elevated corporate jacket. However, there are a few exciting additions, like the exaggerated flares, scuba-diving tops and beautifully ugly bermuda shorts. Gvasalia seems to understand the idea behind a pre-collection quite well – he’s aware that it’s the commercial part of his job, unlike the runway show. For some designers, who get too frustrated with all those pre-falls and resorts, it’s still a secret.

Power of PR. Sies Marjan SS17

September 14, 2016September 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sander Lak of Sies Marjan has the best PR in town. It’s his second season, and his clothes are already sold by the most meaningful retailers. The hottest models and newcomers walk his shows. Out of nowhere, all the season’s fashionistas appeared on his spring-summer 2017 show. The editors are “stunned”. But is there a reason for all that fuss? I’m still in search for this ‘something’ that makes Sies Marjan a fashion phenomenon. The newest collection is good, but it’s like a deja vu of many other, on-the-radar labels. His colour compositions are called “brilliant”, but is there anything shocking about putting together the most Instagramable pastel shades? I’m quite bored with that. Lotta Volkova, the ‘Vetements best friend’, was tapped to style the show. The effect? Definitely not as jaw-dropping as everyone expected. The collection isn’t bad – scarf-like dresses in silk, platform boots, sequined gown in saucy-red – but it’s not remarkable.